Recently, I met two people who had the exact same birthday as
mine. But I have never met a person with the exact same measurements. No two people
are built exactly the same, which makes shopping at retail chains a bit
|China Doll by Doris Chan
But one of the greatest advantages of crocheting your own
garments, in addition to the relaxation, is the ability to modify a crochet top for
the perfect custom fit. With a little bit of garment construction knowledge,
you can add a little fabric to the waist or nip it in, increase or decrease the
width of a hem. One of my favorite articles in Interweave Crochet is a tutorial on shaping by designer Doris
Chan. She covers bust shaping, waist shaping, and hip shaping.
For many of my friends and family it is the hip shaping that
causes the greatest difficulty in finding a great fitting sweater. Here is what
Doris Chan says about hip shaping:
||The wedge, nip, and flare provide bust, waist, and hip shaping in solid-stitched fabric.
Hip Shaping: The Flare
If you need to add only a couple of inches of circumference,
then you may opt to do the flare at the sides of the body pieces. Be aware,
though, that too much side shaping will appear as "wings," where the
bottom at each side will droop and hang too long . . . Instead, for more
generous hip ease, make the flare on each side of an imaginary center panel for
the look of hips darts.
1. After working even to an inch past your natural waist,
locate and mark a center panel. (Mark two stitches for the position of panels
centered at front and two stitches for the panel centered at back. . . . For a
plain stitch, take the total number of stitches of the front and use about half
that number for the panel centered at front; mark the stitch at either end of
the panel. Do the same for the back.) From one side, work in pattern to two (or
more if the stitch pattern requires it) stitches before the first marker, work
one increase, work in pattern across the panel to next marker, work the marked
stitch, make one increase.
2. Work rows even between rows of increases as needed to
re-establish your pattern stitch and/or create a more gradual slope. For
plain-stitch fabric, the number of rows worked even depends on the height of
the stitch and your stitch and row gauges.
|Grove Park Tank by Robyn Chachula
. . . For hip-skimming sweaters and tunics, complete the
flare increases an inch or so above the fullest part of your hip, then work
even to desired length. For a longer, more flared garment, continue the
increases through the entire hip, finishing with at least an inch worked even
to smooth out the hem.
– Shaping Part Deux by Doris Chan, Interweave Crochet Spring 2008
My crochet tops now fit my body like they were custom made for me-oh wait, they were custom made for me.
addition to Doris Chan's fabulous shaping articles, I have an
ever-growing stash of how-to articles and technique sidebars on
everything from new techniques and stitches to tips on crocheting lace. Subscribe to Interweave Crochet today and learn crochet tips, techniques, and tutorials.
P.S. P.S. Do you modify your garments? I would love to hear your modification tips. Share them in the comments.