Crochetscene: Jazz Topper

Aug 31, 2014

Have you started whipping up things from Crochetscene yet? I just made the Jazz Topper by Lynn Wasylkevych. In the process, I learned a thing or two that might help you if you're making it (or maybe sway you to add it to your queue!)

I should note that I made this in about a week, in two different times zones, with half a dozen different light sources. So
1. It looks like I own a lot of furniture.
2. The yarn appears to change color from shot to shot. (The yarn is Malabrigo Arroyo in 57 English Rose, if you want to check out the real color.)

Before you read on, note that I altered the construction process. I decided at the outset that I just couldn't handle attaching that first round of motifs to one another AND the collar. I was pretty sure something would go wrong. Maybe that's just me. My method was this:
I made motifs 1-17 and joined them.
Then I made the collar and joined it to the motifs (rather than joining the motifs to the collar--that should all make more sense below in the pictures).
Then I joined motifs 18 and 19.

You DO want to join the motifs as you go. You DO NOT want to work all the motifs to the joining round, then join them all at once. It IS possible to work one motif from the inside of the ball to the joining round and leave it attached to the ball, then work another motif to the joining round and leave it attached to the ball. Then attach those two motifs, in the order noted on the diagram.
The order in which you join the motifs is important.

 

Before you start, dig under your couch cushions, in your son's pencil box, in works-in-progress and gather up as many stitch markers as you can find. You're going to need them.

Mark your first stitch.

Then, on each round, mark the tip and the point.

On Rnd 2, be sure to mark the first dc (actually the ch 3 of the ch 5) on Rnd 2. You work into this on Round 4.

Marking the center stitch on the tip is a good way to keep track of your stitch count.

Pay attention to the TURNS at the end of the rnds. At some point, they will stop. Then they start again.
Rnd 4: This is what it looks like to work around Rnd 3 to make a sc in the top of the first dc on Rnd 2.
Be diligent about weaving in your two ends when you finish each motif. Because you won't want to weave in 40 ends when you are done and you will end up with a fringed topper. (Which is OK if you want that.)
ALSO: After you finish the first motif, give it a special marker (I just looped a knitting stitch marker through the crochet stitch marker). Leave it there until you are done! This will help you orient your work-in-progress to the chart. You will be glad for this.
Here are the first two motifs being united!
Here's a closer look at that happening.
Don't forget to slip stitch into the base of the first ch 3 BEFORE you do the next sc. (I forgot this a couple of times and went all $%@# as I zipped back to fix it.)
Before you join each motif, place markers on the adjacent (non-working) motif at the points where you will join. Note that the motifs do NOT always join point to tip. They sometimes join on one of the ripples. Mark the center stitch of the designated ripple.
On the working motif, first TURN and begin working the final round, THEN mark the point where you will join to the previous motif (I slickly marked one of mine at the end of the penultimate round and spent far too long puzzling over the marker placement before I realized it was on the wrong side of the motif. Reference $*#$& above.)
Happy marked motif RIGHT SIDE UP waiting for its new neighbor. (Be sure to check that each motif is RIGHT SIDE UP)
And here it is.

After you get a few motifs done on the first round, you might be feeling all sure about things. But check this: Be sure your joins don't get twisted on previous motifs. If it's twisted, you'll have permanent wonkiness in there.

At first glance this join might look OK, because both motifs are Right Side Up. BUT this join has a 360 degree twist in it.

Here's what it should look like.
Here's what it looks like to work a 7-dtr shell between two tr. You know, in case you need to know that.
Here is Motif 6 being joined in the first round. It is the final motif of the round. You might think you'd want to join it to Motif 5 first BUT in fact, it joins to Motif 1 first (which you know is Motif 1 because of its special marker).

Ta da! First round joined.

Now is a good time to point this out: You should find a place where you can lay out the work-in-progress and leave it there. You can go watch NCIS to make the next motif, but don't bring the work-in-progress with you. Leave it on a table or bed or wherever, with Motif 1 oriented the same as the diagram.

Here is the first motif of the second round.
Motif 11: This is the first motif with the fancy tip. You work these fancy tips on the motifs that have a free-range tip, that is, they don't join at the tip to any other motif.
Motif 11: ALSO note that this motif does not join to the last motif you made (Motif 10). There's a space left in between that will be filled later.

And here—presto, chango—I am about to join FOUR motifs. I had two balls to work from, so I worked from the center and outside of both. It felt super-efficient at the time, but was actually a tad confusing when I went to join them. I don't actually recommend it.

Note also that I whipped up the collar (I had some sitting-around time for easy crochet, so I actually worked through Rnd 4. I raveled it before joining in the next step).

Here I've attached the collar to the motif points indicated in the diagram. Joining them while it's all laid out ensures that you get a flat collar and don't have to reconnoiter the points on the collar later.

Motif 17: Rats, no picture. BUT work a fancy point on Motif 17.

Motifs 18 and 19: There's a picture, but it's not super-helpful. There's no good way to show this, because you're joining the front bottom motifs to the back upper motifs to create an armhole. I used color-coding to mark them. These are the upper motifs: orange connects to motif 18; green connects to motif 19. Do these in order.

 

 

Hold the phone and hush the puppies while you attach these final two motifs.
Getting there. (And for the love of all things yarny, do not attempt to do this sitting down with it in your lap. Must have tabletop or some such.)
Motif 19 actually connects to 6 different motifs!
Whew! Done! Note the slight fringe effect here -- still need to weave in the ends on those final two motifs. Peggy Sue is looking pretty fetching!

So, there you have the Jazz Topper! Can't wait to see yours!

Happy crocheting!


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