Converting knitting to crochet question - measuring work on table vs. while hanging.

rbgold wrote

on Jan 24, 2011 1:56 PM

Well, I'm new to corchet and having too much fun to stop and knit my next project 'Katrina' by Juilie Weisnberger 'Cocoknits' -

So far I've figured out that if I crochet pieces to the sizes requested by the pattern, and sew them together, then it might work.  I'm using DC into back loop to get a drapy fabric.

So here's my question. I've calculated that to shape the waist I have to loose 1.5 inches (8 stitches in my gauge) over 4 inches (8 rows in my gauge if you lay the work on the table to measure, but only 7 rows if you measure the piece while hanging, as if it's being worn)

So, any suggestions for converting knitting patterns to crochet in general, and any advice about measuring length in particular - do I have 8 rows to work with or only 7?

Thanks

pure wrote

on Feb 22, 2011 4:07 AM

I would definitely use the hung measurement, otherwise, your  garment might end up too long.  Also, I heard that sc can substitute for knit and purl stitches.  I'm sure you can use longer stitches like dc.  Just check to see how many rows your longer stitches would equal when compared with a knit or purl row. So in other words, your dc might be equavalent to two rows of purl.  There is a book called From Knit to Crochet that is published by the Needlecraft Shop, Berne, Indiana.

rbgold wrote

on Feb 22, 2011 4:43 AM

Thanks so much Pure!

I ended up using the 'on table' measurement, but I worked from the bottom up and checked it as I went, so that was ok.  I found i could handle the decreases pretty well by saying to myself:

Instructions say decrease 8 stiches. Knitted Gauge is 4 St/inch, so I need to lose 2 inches.  My Crocheted gauge is 3 St/inch, so I need to decrease 6 st to lose the 2 inches, (and so forth)

That seemed to work pretty well, and I've got a back and 2 sides put together that work.  Now for the arms!  I thought that it would be more attractive to have the stripes going vertically up the arms.  I think handling the shaping would have been much easier working a tube from the top or bottom.  Anyway, I've got one half done, and I think I'll do a row 'straight' before I start the other half with all it's increases and decreases and short rows.  Or Frog it and work around the tube.  As soon as the tennis elbow clears up, we'll see if it'll work!

I'll look for that book!

Thanks again,

G

ladyjayv wrote

on Oct 31, 2012 6:40 PM

rbgold,

I am not sure if you have interest in the book, but I did find copies of it on sale at Amazon.com. 

Ladyjayv