If you are substituting yarns, I would figure out the final yardage needed. So if it calls for 12 skeins at 120 yd per skein, I would make sure I had 1,440 yards of whatever I am using as a substitute. What are you thinking about using? I am working with a beautiful cotton blend. It is working up beautifully.
I haven't quite decided yet. I really like the silk yarn but it's very expensive. I've been to Joann's twice this week and I didn't like any of the yarns they had for what I wanted. I like the sheen of the silk and possibly a satin maybe? I don't know. I'll probably order the yarn on line but it depends on the cost of the skein. I'm leaning more towards the cotton. I will start this project as soon as I check out some of the yarns on many of the websites on line. I have already learned alot by reading some of the other posts. I've only done blankets and scarves but never a garment so I'm really looking forward to making this tee. I love the videos on the Tunisian on this site. Thank you so much for being helpful. I will check back for more posts from others and see how everyone is doing.
I have a question about the RetP rows in the base triangles. In the usual Tunisian stitch the RetP rows start with a Yo and draw through 1 loop before you start the Yo and draw through 2 loops across the piece. In the instructions for this tee for row 1 it says "RetP: [Yo and draw through 2 loops] to end." Does this mean we omit that first stitch of "Yo and draw through 1 loop" at the start of the row?
I have done a chunk using the Yo draw through 1 loop at the start and it looks fine so far but now I'm unsure if that will work since I'm starting to get a bit of a weird bias curve at the edge. Before I get too far along I thought I'd check :)
Yes, for the base triangles you skip that Yo and draw through 1 loop. This helps create the angles. Remember to only do this when the patten says. When you work the sides you go back to the normal RetP.
I used 70 % cotton and 30 % linen and h or 5 mm hook 50 gram yarn blend, The swatch was very close to gauge. I used the 34 1/2 pattern. I washed it in the washing machine according to instructions on yarn in cool water. When it came out, it was still large. I threw it in the dryer hoping it would shrink, it didn't. Not thoroughly dry, I shaped it to dry the rest of the way, but there is no way that this "sweatshirt" is going to get smaller unless I wash it in hot water and try to shrink it. It is huge. I enjoy working the pattern with the different changes in the project. What have I done wrong?
On the above comment from myself, fiberlady, I was counting stitches all the time and tried to keep the stitches uniform. Also my measurements should be for the 37 1/2 size. I had made this tee in an acrylic type yarn and the weight was 3 x's the grams called for in the pattern. So I had this huge tee in a heavier weighted yarn using I or 5.5 mm hook and it came out the same way-huge. So i blocked that one and nothing happened so I go the lighter weight yarn and tried a smaller size. That's where I am at with the blocking on the smaller one. I figure after I put the neckline in and the sleeves, it may get smaller on top.
Thanks again for any ideas.
I finally got to start this today. I've had the yarn waiting for
weeks. I ordered Snug as a Bug in a Rug 100% bamboo yarn from
eknittingneedles.com in Violet. It is extremely soft, with a beautiful
drape and lovely shine. But the best is that it was only $8.99 for 3
balls so it was only about 20% of the cost of the silk that I just
couldn't justify shelling out for.
This pattern is so addictive! I love tunisian crochet. I swatched
last night and started this morning. Just about done the first base
triangle. Can't wait to see the finished product, not sure I'll finish
by January 9th though.
Happy Crocheting everyone!
I completed the project which in the end turned out to be like a sweater dress. I understand cotton stretches.
I know the CAL is technically already finished according to the schedule listed, but I'm just beginning this pattern and I'm hoping someone can clarify why the gauge and the pattern sizes don't seem to add up. The gauge calls for 20st & 20 rows = 4", but for the size 31.5", the foundation row (which should be the circumference of the bottom/hip level), only calls for 112 stitches. 112st/20st = 5.6 and 5.6 * 4" = 22.4". What is going on? It seems like achieving this gauge and following the pattern as written couldn't possibly make the size listed, but no one else seems to have had this problem. Please help! I've been looking forward to making this top for months and I finally have both the time and yarn. Thanks!
Hi Kate, am having in the same mathematical twist as you are, except I started making the top already. It's the 31.5 inch version, but is only 29 ish (stretched) at the moment. I asked Toni, but am thinking that it's probably best to just make the foundation row to the closest measurement as it comes out, not as it's written.
I too had to think hard about the gauge on this garment when I started. The gauge says 20 sts and 20 rows = 4". But you have to remember that the rows are worked at an angle from the original chain, so you can not apply the gauge information to the beginning chain.
If you work the math backwards for just the beginning chain, you will find that it works out to about 14 chain sts = 4".
Hope this helps!
Thanks! That is very helpful. I'll go back and check the beginning chain measurement.
Toni, I know this is a different project and have not used a forum before so was not sure about where to asked my questions but am hoping you can help.
Have been making "afghan stitch" blankets for many years and have finally decided it was time to make a sweater. Swain Sweater by Megan Granholm in the Winter 2011 issue seemed a good place to start. After reading the pattern many time I was sure that this was a project that could be completed with no problems. Of course it never works out that way.
The body is complete and have just completed the first sleeve. The last instruction for the sleeves is to whipstitch the seams tog. If instructions were followed and you only picked up 60 loops in the first 27 rows of the back and front sections this leaves the 10 stitchs added at the underarm open. Not sure how to proceed or fix this problems. Thanks for any help. Ann
Did anyone ever finish this thing? I am so stuck. I've done the two base triangles and the 1st body block.. It looks like to me that the thing needs blocking after every block. How will I ever block it at the end if it's in the round? I'm a blocking novice, so maybe I'm missing something here. Are there any pictures of the project in process that we can refer to?
I am still not done with mine (put it down in frustration and haven't gone back yet - I made it through the base triangles & body blocks, but I'm unhappy with the prominent seam at the join). However, I have made several crocheted clothing items that I didn't block until they were completely assembled, so the fact that this is in the round should not be a problem. When you are ready to block, just pin the whole garment to the desired measurements. Use as many pins as you need and don't restrict your pins to the edges - it is a good idea to pin in the middle as well.
I've also found that some of the frustrating curling (which is probably what makes you want to block each individual piece) is tamed when the next piece is joined. Hopefully it will all come together in the end. Good luck!