the Fall 2013 issue of Interweave Crochet, Doris Chan designed a cropped
cardi with cable raglan shaping.
Doris used Cascade Venezia Sport, a Z-twist lightweight yarn. If you haven't
crocheted with a Z-twist yarn, you are in for a treat. Much of the yarn on the
market is S-twist. As you crochet, it unplies because of the way the yarn is
looped over the hook; this results in a subtle fattening of the stitches.
Venezia twists in the same direction as the crochet loops, resulting in crisp
sweater is designed as a cropped sweater, including a bit of waist shaping. It
does not lend itself to lengthening.
Designer: Doris Chan
Finished Size: 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46,
48, 50, 52)" bust circumference; 10¼ (10¾, 11¼, 1½, 12¼, 13, 13½, 14, 14½, 14¾, 15¼)"
long at center back. Garment shown measures 34" modeled with 2" negative
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Venezia Sport (70% merino, 30% mulberry silk; 307 yd
[281 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; CYCA #3): #187 sage, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6)
Size 7 (4.5 mm); buttons-Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to
obtain correct gauge.
Notions: Yarn needle; five ½" bone rings to
make buttons, or five 5⁄8" [15 mm] buttons.
Gauge: 16 sts and 9 rows = 4" in dc on larger
hook; cable panel = 1½" wide.
15, 2013 - Sept 21: Buy magazine, purchase yarn, and crochet swatch.
Sept 22, 2013 - Sept 28: Make yoke.
Sept 29, 2013 - Oct 5: Make body
Oct 6, 2013 - Oct 12: Make sleeves.
Oct 13, 2013 - Oct 19: Make buttons and sew on.
I joined the Interweave Summer 2013 CAL and haven't quite finished my wrap yet--I know, I'm a month late; would it be okay to join this CAL, too?
It is kind of a neat piece.
I'm glad you've joined us in this crochet-along. I love this cabled crop sweater. It's a bit deceptive. It looks like you could whip this right up, since it's short and all. But truly, that neckline requires some attention.
Before we start, you need these things:
Magazine: Interweave Crochet Fall 2013. If you don't have it, you can find it here.
Yarn: I'm using Cascade Yarns Venezia Sport, same as Doris' sample. This yarn is a Z twist, which means that the plies are twisted in the same direction that you wrap the yarn. Most commercially produced yarn is an S twist, so you probably haven't been able to appreciate the brilliance of the Z twist. This is the perfect project for experiencing this, since it's relatively small. Go ahead; you won't be sorry. You can read what Doris has to say about Z-twist yarn.
Hook: Which size? Start with Size 7 (4.5 mm). But before you know for sure, you need to make a gauge swatch.
No, don't skip the gauge swatch. Make your swatch a bit larger than you need to measure (those outer stitches can squish or stretch, throwing the measurement off). When you're done, measure it. Don't stretch or squish to make it fit
the numbers you're supposed to get. In fact, don't even look at those
numbers. Just write down how many stitches and how many rows you get per four inches.
NOW you can look at the pattern & see if your numbers match. If they do: WooHoo! If you have more stitches than gauge calls for, try a larger hook; if you have fewer stitches, try a smaller hook.
AND NOW--and this is VERY IMPORTANT: Measure your bust. Doris has provided a 20" range of sizes in 2-inch increments. The sweater is designed to fit, with a bit of ease perhaps. But you HAVE TO measure yourself RIGHT NOW, so you're making this sweater for the size you are RIGHT NOW, not the size you remember being last year or hope to be next year. Go ahead. We won't look.
Got it? Great. Pick your size and we're ready to roll!
For tips on preparing your pattern for the hard work ahead, check out this blog.
See you soon with tips on working that neckline! It's an adventuresome bit of crochet.
skadlek: Sure! We won't tell about you having more than one WIP :)
How is it going out there? Got your pattern? And your yarn? And your gauge swatch? And decided on your size? yes, yes, yes, yes?
Great! So, you've probably started on the neck then. And thought "Woah, Doris! What are you getting me into this time?"
This yoke is not a "it's midnight & I think I'll start that sweater" sort of thing. No, take your yarn & pattern and get yourself ot a remote place where nobody will bother you. Then work the yoke.
Here are a few tips I gleaned while working on the yoke:
Count. Then count again. The orange marker there is left over from working the fsc. I put a marker every 20 st. After working the fsc, this marker helps in counting over to the starting point (marker + however many stitches you need for your size). The green marker is the number of stitches over I counted for my size. You sl st into the next st. That green marker is useful later, because sometimes the stitches get buried in the work just when you need to see them (this all makes a lot more sense if you're following along in the pattern, but let me know if you have questions.)
This is the first row worked.I'm about to put a green marker at the end there so I can see where the sl st end. Because they're really hard to see.
Pay attention to the turns. You might even want to highlight them or circle them. Pay attention to where the word TURN is, too. Sometimes you fasten off before you turn and sometimes you turn, then fasten off. Subtle, but Doris is clever & there's a method to her madness. So just pay attention and do what she says to do.
Also pay attention to where you're starting your next short row. Sometimes it's on the WS and sometimes it's on the RS. (This is where those TURNs come in handy, too.) Don't assume you know what you're doing just because you've been crocheting for decades. I've been crocheting for decades and I've never done anything quite like this neck.
And don't be afraid to count your stitches at the end of every row. I encourage it.
(Sorry if I sound all school-marmy. Just trying to save you some angst.)
ALSO: You're working that scrumptious cable pattern at the same time. For tips on working the cable, check out this blog on Doris' crocheted cables.
Can't wait to see your work-in-progress!