I am thrilled that you have joined me for this Chevron Cowl CAL. It's easy to join! Simply download the free Chevron Cowl pattern, choose your own fingering-weight yarn, grab your hook, and crochet along. You will find the crochet schedule on the CAL page.
I will be be posting blogs to help you with any questions and to share any tips I discover as I am crocheting. Check out the first blog with some great tips for beginning your cowl.
Feel free to share your own questions and tips in this forum! But first just write a quick reply to say hi to the CAL group!
Getting started tomorrow, can't wait!
I'm excited for this CAL, as I have been needing something to jumpstart me. I'm so awkward with this method. I hold my hook underhanded when I crochet, but you can't do that well with Tunisian, so I'm having to learn how to hold the hook overhanded. It is a completely different motion and I haven't been able to get my tension right. Also, with overhanded, I have to throw the yarn which I don't do with the other hold.
So glad I found this CAL . Am new to tunisian crochet but hope to start tomorrow.
Glad to join the CAL - I got started late. I am going to use yarns from my stash : Bo Peep - a superwash merino and Hustle a wool/silk, both from local producer: Dancing Leaf Farm. I am also going to add a row or so of special yarns . I am worried I don't have enough yardage of the BoPeep.
I did return row with special yarn,( a loopy, fuzzy and then on the next forward pass picked up a loop from the back, to make the special yarn "pop" to the front.
I have some ribbon type yarn that I may throw in as well for the fun of it -
I'm a late starter too. I just picked up some yarn this afternoon in shades of hand-dyed purple. It's been over 30 years since I made a Tunisian crochet project, so I am thrilled to re-learn this technique.
Late starters are definitely welcome! That just means I can keep a little ahead of you and discover tips and tricks that will help you. I can't wait to see all of your finished cowls. The yarns you are describing sound gorgeous!
Thank you Toni,
I had some trouble starting with the chain. No matter what I did, I found it difficult to get the correct number of loops on my hook. I finally used a knitting needle with my Tunisian hook and used a knitted cable cast on to get all the loops on the hook and cable. Then I did the foundation return pass. It was easier and it looks nice to me. Is this okay, or will I be sorry? The edge is firm, yet elastic.
My next problem was identifying all of the vertical bars using the multi-shaded purple. I had trouble figuring out where the slanted bars were, as they blended right in and were hard to see. Thought I was getting bug eyed! I kept coming up short on the stitch count at the end. I finally came to the conclusion that I should try a sample out of a heavier yarn first so that I could play around with the pattern and get used to the little tricky areas.
So, I restarted using a plain colored knitting worsted so that I could get used to the pattern and identify all of the bars. That worked out well after a couple of inches, Your instructions and hints made more sense when I could really see what I was trying to do. Those slanted bars were much easier to see and my rows are working out correctly. So I plan to restart again using the original yarn and the cable knit cast on because I like how it looks.
I, too, am a member of the Late Starter Club. And I, too, was having trouble seeing the yo (yarn over) stitch from the prior row. After several froggings, I think I have it down! I haven't done a ripple pattern in a long time and I've never done one in Tunisian. So, I made myself a small cheat sheet that reads (vertically): *, yo, tss5, tss3tog, tss5, yo, tss, * It condenses the instructions and I've almost got them memorized.
I don't see any reason why a knitted cast on shouldn't work for the first row of a Tunisian project. I've actually wondered about this in the past but never had the chance to try it. I'd love to see pictures of your edging.
The vertical bars and especially the slanted yarn over bars are a little difficult to distinguish. I will tell you that they get easier to find after your piece is a little wider. Being able to see the bars of previous rows helps you find them in your current row. You will also find that the pattern is the same for every row and that helped me a great deal. You will always tss3tog over the bar before the lowest point of the chevron, the bar at the lowest point of the chevron and the bar after. You will always pick up a loop in the yarn over before the tallest bar of the chevron, yarn over, pick up a loop in the bar at the tallest point of the chevron, and yarn over. The next loop you pick up will always be in the next yarn over from the previous row and this is number 1 of the 5 loops you pick up before the next tss3tog.
I would sometimes find that I didn't have 5 loops for a chevron repeat when I got to the bar before the lowest point of the chevron (where I needed to begin the tss3tog), so I would recount the loops on my hook since the last yarn over to see if I had miscounted and if it was still wrong I had probably missed a bar.
I'm finally back to where I began frogging. But, I'm having trouble at the end. I began with 101 stitches. How many should I have after the last set of tss3tog? I would think that since I begin with the initial pattern (tss, yo, tss5, tss3tog...) that I should have the same number each row after the final tss3tog - 5. But I keep losing stitches. I've counted back to verify that I haven't lost any stitches along the way, but it's not working well. Again, it's been zillions of years since I've done a ripple stitch, and never with Tunisian, so I may have forgotten the method. Maybe I should grab a regular ripple pattern and see what goes on there. Any suggestions?
Yes, you should have the same number of stitches at the end of each row. When you work the tss3tog you are decreasing 2 stitch, but at the top of the chevron you work yo, tss, yo which increases the stitch count by 2.
When I was crocheting, I found several places that it was easy to skip stitches. The yo, especially the last one of the row (just before the selvedge st) and the one at the beginning of the row can be easy to miss. I also found that I would often miss the first bar immediately after the tss3tog.
I finished my Chevron Cowl a few weeks ago. It's not as good as it could be, but I'm pretty new to chochet. Judy in SE Wisconsin
Hi Toni and other members of this CAL,
I am now progressing well on my cowl. I've completed the first ten rows and now know what you mean Toni about it getting easier with some length.
My yarn is a hand dyed yarn-- Tosh Merino Light --from Madelinetosh in shades of purple called "Begonia Leaf." The stitch is working well with the yarn. I did the knitted cable cast on because I thought it looked neater after I tried using the crochet version.
I'll upload a picture on the weekend, as you mentioned you'd like to see how the knitted cast on looked.
I'm looking forward to see everyone's cowl when they're finished.
I now have 25 rows, measuring about 12" high. I finally figured out what was happening at the left edge - I'd dropped enough stitches that I wasn't getting to the final yo - but now I'm back in business! I haven't decided yet how much further I'll go.
How do I add a photo to the gallery?