a very basic tutorial on natural dyeing

MsBusyFingers wrote

on Oct 22, 2008 11:33 AM

This is a project that is best done over a few days. Your results will be much more satisfying if you take your time. Please feel free to email me with questions you have and make sure to show us all pictures of your resulting colors!

Let's get going!

Gather your materials:

You will need a large stainless steel or enamel pot(not aluminum) that you will only use for your dyeing. I found mine in the thrift store.  

You will also need alum and cream of tartar - found in the spice section of the grocery store.

Choose your dye stuff:

Some dye materials are what you call substantive, and do not need a mordant. Walnut husks, some tree barks and lichen are some examples. Most plants need some kind of mordant to help the dye bond to the fiber. I will be using a very simple one pot dye and mordant method to get you going. Onion skins give lovely yellows, oranges and golds, walnut husks are great for browns. I have seen people get an amazing range of colors from different mushrooms. It is up to you what to try. Not all plants give good color, but you would be surprised how many do. I highly recommend that you get a book if you want to try some more involved dye experiments. Get in touch with the mad scientist inside yourself, and you will be ready to go!!

Choose your fiber:

Wool (from any animal) is a good place to start because protein fibers are easier to dye than plant based fibers (like cotton or soy or hemp). Get thee to the yarn store and get some undyed white or natural light colored yarn.

Scour your yarn:

Arrange your yarn in small skeins ( about an ounce is good to start with) and tie them in several places so they do not tangle. Fill a container with enough really hot, not boiling, water and a tiny bit of mild soap and add the yarn. Let this cool completely or let it soak overnight before dyeing.

Fill your dye pot :

Distilled water is great if you have it, but tap water will work too, or rain water. It is just that minerals and acidity affect your colors. Part of what is so fun about natural dyeing is that there are so many variables, so there are a lot of surprises!

A general guideline for how much dye stuff to add is about the same amount as the fiber. Obviously, the more dye stuff you use, the more intense the color.

Make sure your yarn has plenty of space to swim around in your pot!

If you have the time, it is a good idea to soak the yarn and the dyestuff together in the water for a day before you simmer it.

Simmer your dye and yarn:

Bring your pot to a simmer slowly and then simmer for 15-30 minutes.

Remove the yarn temporarily and add your mordant. Use 1.5 teaspoons of alum per ounce of fiber and just a pinch of cream of tartar. Dissolve the alum and cream of tartar in a cup of your dye liquid and then add to the pot. Stir to mix in thoroughly.

Add yarn back into pot and simmer for another 30 minutes.

Allow yarn to cool in the pot and soak overnight.

Take out the yarn and gently squeeze it out. You will have to shake it out to remove the dyestuff that will be stuck in it.

Rinse yarn thoroughly in lukewarm water until no more color washes out.

Hang to dry in a shady place.