Dear Toni! I would love to join this one, but I can figure out how to find the appropriate yarn here in Europe. I can't find the Stitch Diva yarn and I am no good at finding the right gauge. Could you recommend a yarn I can buy in Europe? Maybe it is asking too much.
My tunisain knit stitches look great....the purl ones, however, seem to be leaving a big gap when attaching to the foundation. Would it be possible for you to put up a couple more photos showing purl stitches this time. Otherwise I may end up substituting a different stitch.
thanks so much.
Just thought I'd let you know that I'm in the UK and I'm using King Cole Bamboo Cotton which I'm going to frog completely because the stitches are producing too thick a fabric. However, I'm also doing a 2nd and 3rd alongside each other in Louisa Hardings Albero, which is also a bamboo/cotton mix, but is producing a much lighter fabric than the king cole.
I know that on Ravelry there are others who are using acrylic and seem to be doing fine with that.. So I suppose its really up to you, Try swatching a few to see how you like them. Hope this helps.
I just found the CAL yesterday and so I'm a little behind. Would someone explain the gauge swatch. The directions state 20 sts and 20 rows = 4" in tks.
I understand the stitches but the rows are confusing me. Are the forward pass and return pass counted as individual rows? Or are the forward pass and return pass counted together to create one total row?
I'm using Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima which is 100% Cotton, so this might not be the right yarn for the job. I used an I hook and my 20 sts measured 5". I'm going to try an H hook tomorrow and see if i can get it down to 4". However, I'm still stuck on the rows.
I tried googling and youtube to find an instruction about Tunision/Afghan gauge but couldn't find anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
In tunisian crochet the forward pass and return pass are counted as one row. You can count the little '' V's to keep track of how many rows have been done.
Also, there are a number of 'how to' videos on this site about tunsian crochet. And YouTube is also a good place to find helpful videos if you get stuck.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your response Stitch. I'll get moving on my gauge swatch today.
Decided to start over again. I was halfway through the first triangle but I didn't like the look of it. So, here goes round 2.
I'm quite short and heavier in the hip than in the bust. I need the largest pattern size to fit the hip, but only the third for the bust.
If I make the largest pattern size to fit the hip, the top will be much too long for me.
I need to find a way to get the third size bust and length measurements but the widest point at the hip. I'm unsure how to do this given that I need to start with the widest point. I'm especially confused about how to make the garment shorter, since with the triangular construction it's not just a matter of omitting rows or rounds as I would normally do.
Many thanks, stitchywitchy!! Very good insights!
I just finished posting a blog on working the first body block. We had a severe snow storm last week that knocked out all of the power and put me a bit behind, but it was a fabulous excuse to crochet!
I am a bit ahead of the CAL and now I'm stuck. I finished the fourth tier and I'm not sure where to begin the fifth tier. The way I am reading the instructions it looks like I begin at the top of the 4th tier shoulder block and crochet down that side? That doesn't make any sense. Or do I crochet across the top of it? That seems to make more sense, but then I thought maybe I am supposed to start in the middle of the shoulder block and the back block where it sort of forms a "v" shape, but that doesn't seem to make sense either. Please help!!
To work the fifth tier, you will join the yarn with a slip stitch to the top right edge of the Left-front shoulder block. Then chain the required number of stitches. Now you will be working the fifth tier into the chain you just made, joining it to the fourth tier by picking up a loop in the top edge of the fourth tier at the end of each fifth tier row. It is kind of similar to the way the second tier (body blocks) were worked only picking up that loop at the end of the row instead of the beginning. So you are only working into one single crochet of the fourth tier each row.
Please let me know if this still doesn't make sense. You really are ahead of the game. I'm truly impressed!
I purchased the Fall/2011 because of this pattern but have been very busy with work and hardly anytime to sit down and start this project. I haven't done much crocheting in years but want to start again with this new Tunisian technique. I'm going to label myself as a beginner and need help getting started. Can you please explain on page 29 of that issue what the 3 numbers 1,2 & 3 just on top of the plus size means and why the number 4 is Tunisian? My bust circumference is 38 so how would I know how many skeins to buy?
I'd love to help you get started! The numbers refer to the skill level. A 3 would indicate that this was an intermediate level pattern. That is primarily due to the construction techniques not the actual stitches. We have had several beginning crocheters make this top and were just fine. I created a couple of detailed blogs with photographs to explain the more complicated or confusing construction methods. You can find links to them on the CAL page; just scroll down to the Betty's Tunisian Tee CAL information.
I would suggest you made the size 37½ as a little bit of negative ease looks good with this pattern. You can see that the sizes are laid out with the smallest before the parentheses and the rest within the parentheses but separated by commas. So you would make the size i have bolded: 31½ (34½, 37½, 40, 46, 48½, 54½). You look at the same place in all of the parentheses for information pertaining to your size; this includes the skein number as well as number of stitches when you get into the pattern. So you will need 12 skeins—9 (10, 12, 13, 17, 19, 23) skeins. I have found it helpful to go through with a highlighter and highlight the numbers appropriate for your size.
I hope that makes sense, and please just let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you for that explanation and it does make sense now. I will certainly check out the link to Betty's Tunisian Tee you pointed out. I like the idea of using the 371/2 size for the negative ease which I hope will look nice on me. My waist is 32 so I think it would work. I've noticed that some of the packaging on the skeins say they are actually 3 skeins so should I buy 4 for a total of 12?