Free Crochet Me Patterns

Moccasin style baby boots

the creationist — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:46:04 GMT

Author

Toya Walker

Introduction

My enviably glamorous french friend has just had a lovely baby boy. I wanted to make him a gift suitable for a cold winter in a caravan, so I crocheted these faux fur/leather style boots. While baby boots are pretty cute, because they’re just so darn small, I wanted to make sure I designed them to actually stay on, so they have a tie round the ankle (or you could use elastic).

This is my first attempt at writing a pattern, so feedback is appreciated.

Materials List

3mm hook

1skein of dk brown wool (A)

1 skein of dk cream or off-white wool (B)

Finished Size

approx 0-3 months

Notes

The fur trim is made with loop stitch, instructions can be found at http://www.nexstitch.com/v_loop_stitch.html

The Pattern

Sole and sides: Make 2 working continuously round the foundation row except where stated. Place marker at the beginning of the round if this helps.

With A ch 13

Round1: 2sc in 2^nd from hook, sc in each of the next 9, 3sc in last loop of chain, then, working down the other side of the foundation row sc in each of the 9 sts.

Round2: (2 sc in next st)twice, sc in each of the next 9, (2sc in next st)3 times, sc in each of the next 9, 2sc in last st of round

Round3: (2sc in first st, sc in next st)twice, sc in each of the next 9sts, (2sc in next st, sc in next st)3 times, sc in each of the next 9, 2sc in next st, sc in last st.

Round4: (2sc in first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts)twice, sc in each of the next 9sts, (2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts) 3 times, sc in each of the next 9sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the last 2 sts.

Round5: (2sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts)twice, sc in each of the next 9sts, (2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts) 3 times, sc in each of the next 9sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the last 3 sts.

Round 6: (2sc in first st, sc in each of the next 4 sts)twice, sc in each of the next 9sts, (2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts) 3 times, sc in each of the next 9sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the last 4 sts, sl st to join

Round7: ch1, sc in back loop of each st of round

Round8-10: sc in each st all the way round

Round11: sc in each st all the way round sl st to join. Fasten off

Boot top or upper: Make 2 working in rows on both sides of the foundation chain.

Ch 8 with A

Round1: sc in 3^rd from hook, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 3sc in last st of the chain then working along the other side of the chain, sc in each of the 4 sts. Turn

Round2: ch1, sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc in each of the last 4sts. Turn

Round3: ch1, sc in each of the next 3 sts, (2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st)3 times, sc in each of the last 4sts. Turn

Round4: ch1, sc in same st, sc in next 4sts, (2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts)3 times, sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in last st. Turn

Round5: ch1, sc in same st, sc in next 5sts, (2sc in next st, sc in next 3sts)3 times, sc in each of the next 4sts, 2sc in last st. Turn

Round6: ch1, sc in same st, sc in next 6sts, (2sc in next st, sc in next 4sts)3 times, sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in last st. Fasten off.

Sl st round outer edge of upper to join it to base and sides. Sl st creates the ridge that gives a moccasin effect, ensure the ridge is formed on the top not the side. Do not fasten off.

Ankle and Trim: Make 2 continuing from the sl st round. Work in continuous round except where stated.

Round1: Sc in each row end of upper and the remaining stiches of sides (36sts in total)

Round2: Sc in each st round working a decrease at the 2 corners (where the upper meets the sides) (34sts in total)

Round3: Sc in each st round working a decrease at the 2 corners (where the upper meets the sides). Sl st to join.(32sts in total)

Round4: Ch2, hdc in next st, ch1 sk1, (hdc in next 2 sts, ch1, sk1)7 times, 1hdc in each of the 4sts, ch1 sk1, hdc in next 2sts, ch1, sl st to join.

Round5: Ch1, sc round.

Round6-7: Sc round.

Round8: Sc round. Sl st to join on round 8. Fasten off.

Round9: With B join, ch1, loopst round. (NB loops will appear on the underside of the work and the INSIDE of the boot.)

Round10: Loopst round

Round11: Loopst round, sl st to join. Fasten off leaving thread.

Finishing

Fold over loop st section so loops are on the outside and sew down into place. Plait or crochet to sections of cord to thread in and out of holes created in round4 to tie boot round ankles.

Jeweled Hexagon Bag

MerriP — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:19:53 GMT

Author

Merri Purdy

Introduction

This is a simple crocheted bag that you can make. Add the hexagon suggested in the pattern directions, or add one of your own choice; there are numerous free motifs available!

You can find complete pattern directions on the following link. Click on the images at the bottom of the page for additional photos.

http://www.crochetsoiree.com/patterns/view/83391-jeweled-hexagon-bag/

Materials List

Bag:

2 skeins (6oz) Lion Wool – Sage (main color)

Hexagon: (I used motif #30 from Beyond The Squares Crochet Motifs by Edie Eckman)

Less than 1oz each of wool in 3 coordinating colors (example uses Lion Wool in Sage, Lion Wool in Flower Garden, and Paton’s Wool in Teal)

Crochet Hook size H

Button (optional)

Finished Size

Approximately 11 inches 5 inches

Notes

Note: All stitches are worked through both loops.

The Pattern

Bag Foundation:

Row 1: Using Main Color, chain 36, sc in second chain from hook and in chain across; 35 sc total.

Row 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each stitch across.

Row 13 – Ch 1, sc in next 34 sc, sc 2 tog in last stitch (36sc total).

Turn piece 90 degrees and evenly work 14 sc along the short edge.

Turn piece 90 degrees; place 2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 33 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.

Turn piece 90 degrees and evenly work 14 sc along opposite short edge.

(There should now be a total of 100 stitches around your rectangle foundation.) Do NOT fasten off. Place a marker in the last stitch of short edge.

Sides:

Continue to sc crochet (in the round) your piece until side measures 5 inches from marker (or desired depth). Before fastening off, I usually slip stitch for 2 -3 stitches to make the edge a little smoother. Fasten off.

Lay lower portion of the bag on a flat surface and fold short ends up like Photo A above. With short edge facing you, fold each side of the top edge in toward the center to make 2 pleats. (see Photo B) Pin in place. Repeat for opposite end. Starting at pleat, attach yarn and sc through all layers of the pleat and evenly around the top edge of the bag. (72 sc). Chain 1, sc around 1 more row. Do Not fasten off.

Back Flap:

Chain 1, turn. Now working in rows, sc along top(back) edge of bag for 26 sc.

Chain 1, turn. Work 26 sc in each row for 10 rows, then sc 2 together at each end until there are 16 sc remaining. Fasten off.

Position your hexagon onto the flap and sew in place. (See Photo E)

Handles: Chain 7

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each stitch across (6 sc total)

Row 2 – 3 sc in each stitch across (6 sc each row), ss to 1^st stitch in row 3 and sc continuously “in the round” until handle measures 15 ½ inches from beginning.

Last 3 rows: chain 1, turn, sc in next 6 sc, chain 1, turn, complete 2 more rows, fasten off.

Attach handles to inside of each short edge on main body of bag.

Optional Button/Loop for Flap Closure:

Attach yarn to center of flap edge and chain 10 to create a loop. Center and sew button to bag.

Crazy Cat Hat

Yarnville — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 04:06:05 GMT

Author

Brenda K. B. Anderson

Introduction

You know the look on your cat's face right before it tears through the room, stalking it's invisible prey? Yeah, you know the one. Well this hat is a tribute to that look. Hooray for the Crazy Cat!

P.S. If you make this hat I would love to see photos!

Materials List

Materials:

One skein (no more than 150 yards) of Lion Brand Homespun yarn in "Edwardian". Or substitute with another textured chunky weight yarn that will give the same gauge.
No more than twenty yards of a worsted weight yarn for eyes. I used Red Heart Soft yarn in "Honey"
No more than 10 yards of black worsted weight yarn for eye outlines and pupils. I used Caron simply Soft yarn.
One yard of worsted weight yarn to embroider Crazy Cat's nose. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in light pink
One yard of worsted weight yarn to embroider Crazy Cat's whiskers. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in grey
Size I/9 - 5.5mm hook (use for main part of hat)
Size H/8 - 5.00mm hook (use for eyes and pupils)
Yarn needle

Finished Size

This hat will fit a tween, teen, or adult with a head circumference of up to 22". The hat's circumference is 23" and is not very stretchy. You could put it on a 23" head but it would feel quite snug. The Styrofoam head pictured has a circumference of 21".

Gauge

To make a gauge circle swatch, work rounds 1-6 of hat pattern. Diameter of circle should measure 4" (about 10 cm).

Notes

Abbreviations and terms used in this pattern:

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

sc = single crochet

st(s) = stitch (stitches)

Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together. This is a decrease stitch. (Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull loop through to the front of work, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull loop through to the front, yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.)

Sl st = slip stitch

Tr = triple or treble crochet

The back bump:

This is also known as the back, backside, or butt of a chain stitch. This is the part of the chain stitch that is opposite of the two loops (the ones that form the "v") that you would normally insert your hook under. In other words, if you turn the chain upside down, so that you are looking at the bottom of it, you will see a line of dashes. It is under each dash, that you would insert your hook if you were instructed to crochet into the back bump of each chain stitch.

Magic Ring:

Most of the pieces in this pattern start out with a magic ring. If you are not familiar with this technique, I highly recommend typing "adjustable magic ring crochet" into your preferred search engine, to learn how to do it. There is a good video of this method on You Tube also. However, if you prefer not to use the magic ring method, you can chain 2 stitches, and then work into the second chain from the hook as directed. For example, if the pattern reads: "make a magic ring, sc 6 times into ring..." you could instead: "ch 2, sc 6 times into the second ch from the hook".

The Pattern

Directions:

The top of the hat is crocheted in a spiral, starting at the top center. When you get to the earflaps, you will work back and forth in rows. Ears, eyes, and pupils are crocheted separately, and sewn on later. Nose and whiskers are embroidered onto hat.

Make Hat Base:

Round 1. With main color (chunky) yarn and size I/9 - 5.00mm hook, Make a magic ring, 6 sc into ring, pull to tighten ring (6 sts).

Round 2. 2 sc into each st around (12 sts).

Round 3. [2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st] 6 times (18 sts).

Round 4. [1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st] 6 times (24 sts).

Round 5. [1 sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st] 6 times (30 sts).

Round 6. [2 sc into next st, 1 sc into each of the next 4 sts] 6 times (36 sts).

Round 7. [1 sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into the next st, 1 sc into each of the next 3 sts] 6 times (42 sts).

Round 8. [1 sc into each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc into the next st, 1 sc into each of the next 2 sts] 6 times (48 sts).

Round 9. [1 sc into each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc into the next st] 6 times (54 sts).

Round 10. [1sc into each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into each of the next 4 sts] 6 times (60 sts).

Round 11. [1 sc into each of the next 19 sts, 2 sc into next st) 3 times (63 sts).

Round 12. [1 sc into each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into each of the next 10 sts] 3 times (66 sts).

Rounds 13-21. 1 sc into each st around (66 sts).

Row 22. Ch 1 (turning chain- does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 44 sts.

Row 23. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 22 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts (42 sts).

Row 24. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each st across (42 sts).

Row 25. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 20 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts (40 sts).

Row 26. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each st across (40 sts).

Row 27. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 18 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts (38 sts).

Row 28. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each st across (38 sts).

Row 29. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 16 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts (36 sts).

Row 30. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each st across (36 sts).

Row 31. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), TURN, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sl st into each of the next 14 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc into each of the next 9 sts (34 sts).

Do not fasten off yet! Chain 35 sts for tie end. Fasten off and weave in ends. Join yarn to opposite corner (ear flap) and ch 35 sts for other tie end. Weave in ends.

Make 2 Ears:

Round 1. With same hook and yarn, make a magic ring, 5 sc into ring, pull to tighten ring (5 sts).

Round 2. 2 sc into each st around (10 sts).

Rounds 3 & 4. 1 sc into each st around (10 sts).

Round 5. [1 sc into next st, 2 sc into following st] 5 times (15 sts).

Rounds 6 & 7. 1 sc into each st around (15 sts).

Fasten off with a long tail. Use ending tail to stitch ear onto head. Use photo as a guide for placement.

Make 2 eyes:

Round 1. With yarn chosen for eyes (worsted weight), and size H/8 5.00mm hook, make a magic ring, 6 sc into ring, pull to tighten ring (6 sts).

Round 2. 2 sc into each st around (12 sts).

Round 3. [1 sc into next st, 2 sc into following st, 1 hdc in next st, (1 dc and 1 hdc) in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st] twice (18 sts).

Round 4. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, (1 hdc and 1 dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, (1 dc and 1 hdc) in next st, 1 hdc into next st, 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next st] twice. On last sc st of round, yo with the black yarn to change color for next round (28 sts).

Round 5. With black yarn, 1 sc into each st around (28 sts).

Fasten off with a long tail. Use this tail to stitch eyes onto hat AFTER you have stitched pupil onto eye.

Make 2 pupils:

With size H/8 - 5.00mm hook and black worsted weight yarn, ch 8. Working into the back bump of each stitch, and starting with the 2^nd chain from the hook, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in last st.

Fasten off with a 12" tail. Use this tail to stitch pupil onto eye. (Stitch all the way around the edge of pupil). Use photo for a guide. Now you can stitch eyes onto head using the yarn tails from the eyes. (Stitch all the way around the edge of eyes). Weave in ends.

Embroider nose and whiskers onto hat using photo as a guide.

Congratulations you Crazy Cat, now you are finished with your hat!

Cool Crochet Cable Crochet Hat

Helen_Gartner — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:03:36 GMT

Introduction

My husband, bless his heart, is probably the most supportive crochet husband I have ever met. If i say i need more yarn, buttons, hooks, anything related to yarn craftiness, his answer is "then lets go get you that."

But

Anytime i ever offer to make him something.... "No." not in a mean spirited way, he just tells me he doesn't need anything crocheted.

then finally i came up with this Cool Crochet Cable Hat for my nephew. "hey, I like that hat!" piped up my sweet husband. so finally I win! he seems to be quite pleased with his new hat, and i am quite proud of the design.

Materials List

~any ww yarn, I have used both Red Heart super saver, and Lion brand Wool-Ease, both worked fine

~G-6 hook (However, i crochet VERY loosly, after your first couple of rows you should be able to tell if this hook is too small for you. if i were to use a bigger hook the FPDC's start to look funny)

Finished Size

~this pattern worked well for both my husband and my 13 year old nephew, it also fit me quite well

Gauge

the cable makes it hard to measure gauge on the outside of the hat, but if you look on the wrong side for your guage it should be

14 sitches and 12 rows = 4" (10cm)

Notes

~ if you havent learned to do FPDC, and BPDC this is a good project to learn on, youtube has some great videos on how to do them.... you may want to practice the stitches a few times before you start on the hat.

~also the beg ch2 does not couunt as the 1st st (if you prefer to ch 3 for your 1st st, make sure to adjust your st count)

~do not turn your work

special stiches

~1st cable (over 4 st) - skip next 2 st, FPDC around nxt 2, ch2 , go back and FPDC around the 2 skiped sts

~cable (over 6 st) - skip next 4 st, FPTC around nxt 2, ch2 , go back and FPTC around the first 2 skiped sts (you should have 2 unworked st in the center of the cable, the ch2 makes up for this)

The Pattern

start with either a magic loop or a ch5 loop (whichever you prefer)

rnd 1- ch 2, 12 dc in loop, jn with a slip at top of 1st st (12dc)

rnd 2- ch2, *2BPDC around nxt st, 2FPDC around nxt st rep form * around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (24st total)

rnd 3 - ch2 *BPDC around nxt 2 st, (2 FPDC around nxt)x2 rep fom *around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (36 st total)

rnd 4- ch 2, *BPDC around nxt 2 st, 1st cable (over 4 st) (see special stitches above) rep from *around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (48st total, including the ch2 spaces, which count as your increases on this round)

rnd 5- ch2, *2 BPDC around nxt 2 st, FPDC around nxt 2, 2dc in ch 2 sp, FPDC around nxt 2. rep from * around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (60 st total)

rnd 6 - ch 2, *BPDC around nxt st, 2 BPDC around nxt 2, BPDC around nxt, FPDC around nxt 2, BPDC around nxt 2, FPDC around nxt 2. rep from * around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (72st total)

rnd 7 - ch2, *BPDC around nxt 3 st, dc between the st you just made, and the next one, BPDC around nxt 3 st, cable (over 6 st) (see special stitches above) rep from *around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (78 st total, only 6 inc this round)

rnd 8 - ch 2, *BPDC around nxt 3, FPDC nxt, BPDC around nxt 3, FPDC nxt 2, 2 dc in ch2 sp, FPDC nxt 2. rep from * around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (78 st total)

rnd 9 - ch 2, *BPDC around nxt 3, FPDC nxt, BPDC around nxt 3, FPDC next 2, BPDC nxt 2, FPDC nxt 2. rep from *around, join with a sl st in top of 1st st (78st total)

rnd 10 - ch 2, *BPDC around nxt 3, FPDC nxt, BPDC around nxt 3, cable (over 6 st) rep from * around, join with a sl st in top of 1st st (78st total)

rnd 11 - rep row 8

rnd 12 - rep row 9

rnd 13 - rep row 10

rnd 14 - row 8

at this point check the size of the hat to make sure it is deap enough. mine was fine at this point, if it is too long for the intended wearer you could do the last row or 2 with front and back post HDC's instead.

edging

next 3 rows - ch2 * BPDC in nxt st, FPDC in next rep from *around join with a sl st in top of 1st st (78st total)

Last row - ch1, *BPSC in nxt, FPSC in next. rep from *around join with a sl st at top of 1st st. (78st total)

weave in ends and enjoy!

Cool Crochet Cable Crochet Hat

Helen_Gartner — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 07:45:43 GMT