Free Crochet Me Patterns : 3 - Light

Lacy Spring Mitts

e11iejane — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 21:07:34 GMT

Author

Ellie Thouret

Introduction

I wanted to design some ladylike, lacy gloves that would still be warm for springtime weather. Since it's currently snowing here, it's unlikely that I'll be wearing these anytime soon but here's the pattern anyway!

Materials List

3mm hook

Fingering/4ply yarn.

I used a 3mm hook and a cashmere/wool mix yarn (ColourMart 2/15NM in Natural). It's lovely and warm but very soft.

Finished Size

Gauge

9sc per inch

The Pattern

Cuff:
ch9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across - 8 sc
Row 2-37: ch1, sc in blo of each sc across - 8 sc
Do not fasten off
Turn cuff so that short ends are together. Sl st up row ends to join sides of cuff together. Turn right side out.
Do not fasten off.
Mitten:
Row 1: Working in ends of rows, ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 37 sc
Row 2: ch1 (counts as first sc throughout), *sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc*, rep from *to* around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 3-17: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 18: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, ch6, sk next 8 sts, 5 dc in centre of next shell, *sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st* rep from * to * around ending with shell, sl st in first st to join - 7 shells
Row 19: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sts, *shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 20-24: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 25-26: ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 45 sc
Fasten off.
To finish, join yarn in any st at bottom of mitten.
ch1, sc evenly around, sl st in first st to join.
Fasten off.

Weave in ends and block to desired measurements.

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Woolly Warm hands: a hot-drinks cup sleeve

Sawatdee — Sun, 06 Dec 2009 23:09:33 GMT

Author

by Elijah K.

Introduction

This is a WiP (Work in progress), so I have no real right to post this, but I'm doing it anyway. This sleeve is worked from the top down, because I started too big for the bottom.

Materials List

Yarn: DK or worsted weight wool blend

Hook: 5 mm (H-6) or whatever hook you need to obtain this gauge

Finished Size

13 cm high (or so), and whatever circumference (I haven't measured)

Gauge

3 tr: 1.75 cm long, 1.5 cm tall, or about that. Those are just my measurements

Notes

turning chain: tch
slip stitch: sl st
triple crochet: tr
double crochet: dc
chain: ch

st(s): stitch(es)

The Pattern

Ch 46, join to first ch by sl st.

R1: Make a turning ch of 3, dc 51 into ring, join into the top of the tch by sl st.

R2: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr 2, repeat from* until you get to 3 sts from the tch, tr 2 together, tr, join to the top of the tch by sl st.

R3: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr, repeat from* until you get to the tch, sl st in the top of it.

R4-9: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr, repeat from * until you get to 0, 1, or 2 sts of the tch. If 2, tr 2 together, sl st in the top of the tch. If 1, tr , then sl st in the top of the tch. If you are at the tch, sl st into the top of it.

Cut yarn, then pull all of it through the loop and tighten it. Then cut both loose ends to 3 cm, and weave them in on the inside.

Have fun!

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Logwood Shawlette

MsBusyFingers — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 20:45:43 GMT

Author

Sarah Margaret Crittenden

Introduction

I made this simple little shawl after looking at the Dragonfly Shawl and being too lazy to do that one!

Materials List

G hook

fingering weight or sock yarn - at least one skein, but if you want to make it bigger, you will need more yarn

yarn needle

pins and a surface for blocking - I used large push pins and did it on my wooden deck

Finished Size

it's up to you!

Gauge

not important

Notes

This pattern is written by a lazy person, so your going to have to use your noggin to work it out. It is more of a sketch than an all out pattern. Good luck! I know you can do it! (I am also a very friendly person who is more than willing to answer questions and help you along.)

If you would like to buy the full version of this pattern - complete with charts! I changed the name to Shawlette de Veronique and it is available in my Ravelry store http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shawlette-de-veronique

The Pattern

Logwood Shawlette

abbreviations :

ch = chain

ch 2 sp = chain 2 space

slst = slip stitch

dc = double crochet

special stitches :

Shell = 2dc, ch3, 2dc

v = 1dc, ch1, 1dc

V = 1dc, ch3, 1dc

To begin :

ch 6, join in a circle with a slst,

ch 5, (dc in ring, ch 2) x 5

For the rest of the shawl :

start each row with the following : ch 5, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch 3

end each row with the following : ch 3, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, dc in same ch 2 sp

the very middle of each row will always be a Shell

the main idea for this shawl is based on repeating a 5 row pattern of increase :

1. V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V

2. v in ch 3 sp, V in V, v in ch 3 sp, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3, v in ch 3 sp, V in V

3. v in v, ch 1, V in V, ch 1, v in v, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3 v, ch 1, V, ch 1, v

4. v, ch 2, V, ch2, v, ch 3, shell, ch 3, v, ch 2, V, ch 2, v

5. V, ch3, shell, ch 3, V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V

continue on repeating this pattern and you will end up with a very ruffly shawl

I didn't want it to be so ruffly, so I started doing treble crochet instead of double after a while

block it out with pins to open up the lace and achieve the best drape

Here is a picture of the shawl before blocking

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Yikes Stripes Cap

Jennifer Christensen — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 06:40:30 GMT

Author

Jennifer Christensen

Introduction

I originally made this for my daughter, but had many people ask me about it and the pattern, so I wrote it down and first put it up on Ravely and desided it was time to shre it here :)

Materials List

Tahki Cotton Classic in 2 colours (Colours A & B)
Sm- 2.50mm or as needed for gauge
Med- 3.25mm or as needed for gauge

Lg- 3.75mm hook or as needed for gauge

Finished Size

I don't have actual measurements, but the Small should fit a child and the medium should fit a small adult and the large shout fit an average size adult. The medium size is shown in the photo.

Gauge

Sm = 7dc per inch
Med = 6dc per inch

Lg = 5 dc per inch

Notes

If a larger size is still needed just adjust hook size up.

abbreviations:
ch = chain
slp st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(s)

sk = skip

The Pattern

Instructions:

(NOTE: the beginning ch 3 of every round always counts as the first stitch,

Rnds 1-9, Do not turn at the end of the rnds)

Top of cap:

With A, Ch 4, join in 4th ch from the hook to form chain loop

Rnd 1- (right side) ch 3, dc 12 times into the chain loop, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (13 stitches),

Rnd 2- Change to B , ch 3, dc into same st, [2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (26 stitches)

Rnd 3- Change to A , ch 3, 2 dc in next st, [dc into next st, 2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (39 stitches)

Rnd 4- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st,

[dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc into the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (52 stitches)

Rnd 5- Change to A, ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st,

[dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (65 stitches),

Rnd 6- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st,

[dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (78 stitches),

Rnd 7- Change to A, ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st,

[dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (91 stitches)

Rnd 8- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st,

[dc in the next 6 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (104 stitches)

Rnd 9- Change to A, ch 3 dc in the next 14 dc, 2 dc in the next st,
[dc in the next 15 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around until the last 8 sts, dc in the next 7 sts, 2 dc in the last st, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (110 stitches)
Side of cap:
Rnd 10- (right side) Change to B, ch 3, 4 dc into the same st, sk next 4 sts,

[5 dc shell in the next st, sk next 4] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (22 shells)

Rnd 11- Change to A, ch 1, turn, sc into front loop of each st around, join with slp st into the 1st sc. (110 sc)

Rnd 12- Change to B, turn, (Note: shell is worked over the sc row into the back loop of the middle DC of previous shell) slp st into next 3 sts, ch 3, 4 dc into same st, sk 4 sts,

[5 dc shell in the next st, sk next 4] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (22 shells)

Rnds 13-20- repeat Rnds 11 & 12

Rnd 21- repeat Rnd 11 once more

Rnd 22- (do not change colour here) ch 2, turn, [sk next sc, dc into next sc, dc into skipped sc, X-stitch made], continue in X-stitch in each st around, join with slp st into the 1st dc of the 1st X-stitch, skipping over the beginning ch 2.

(55 X-stitches or 110 dc)

Rnd 23- ch 1, do not turn, [sc in dc, ch 2, slp st into side of sc, picot made, sc into next dc] around, sc in the last st, join with slp st in 1st sc, (55 picots, 55 sc) finish off, weave in all ends.

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Alpha Magic Afghan

AnimatorsWife — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 22:57:32 GMT

Author

CrochetKitten.com

Introduction

At first glance, it looks like an ordinary baby blanket, but take a second look and the alphabet magically appears! Pattern originally appeared in HAIN's 2009 Spring Newsletter.

Materials List

MC: 775 yd 3/sport-weight yarn
CC: 150 yd 3/sport-weight yarn

Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook

Finished Size

28” wide by 36” long.

Gauge

Not necessary.

Notes

Special Stitch 1: Front Puff Popcorn. 3 dc in indicated stitch, carefully drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back through first dc in group, pull dropped loop through first dc. Front Puff Popcorn complete. Counts as 1 stitch.

Special Stitch 2: Back Puff Popcorn. 3 dc in indicated stitch, carefully drop loop from hook, insert hook from back to front through first dc in group, pull dropped loop through first dc. Back Puff Popcorn complete. Counts as 1 stitch.

The Pattern

http://crochetkitten.com/files/Alpha_Magic_Afghan.pdf

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Lipstick Cozy

HeldaP@2 — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 11:46:37 GMT

Author

Helda Panagary

Introduction

I hate throwing away those little bits of yarn, so much so I store them in a box marked scraps. I'm convinced they will come in handy .This pattern is designed to use those scraps. Use any sized hook and any leftover yarns.

Materials List

5 -10 grams of yarn, I used scraps from Hazelknits, use whatever you have .

2mm crochet hook, this size hook ensures you have a snug fit ,you dont want it to slip off when tossed into you bag.

Finished Size

7.5 cms/3 inches

Gauge

N/A

Notes

Please note ; cozy should be stiff tight stitches this will ensure that the cozy does not slip off in the black hole of your handbag.

Use uk stitches

The Pattern

This project satisfies the urge to crochet and it also gives a sense of satisfaction that comes with completed items .Make a few for those moments you need to give gift to friends,family a great way to say thank you.

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/07/lipstick-cozy.html

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Baby Dress, cute chevron skirt

RuthD@2 — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 17:01:58 GMT

Author

Ruth del Valle

Introduction

I was wondering a nice baby dress but very easy to do. I thought “I do not know any baby!!”), when it was done, I show it to my son and DIL. She found it so cute, and told me to sell it to her, as she has a friend with a newborn baby girl. Sell it to her?, No, no I told her to buy a variegated skein and I repeat the pattern, following now the instructions, but if you do not understand something please ask it to me. Remember my English is not that well!.

Materials List

Newborn-3 months
2 oz lilac baby yarn (60 gr)
3 oz variegated baby yarn (100 gr)
Hooks : D/3 (3.25mm) for bodice,G/6 ( 4.5) for skirt
Tapestry needle
3 baby buttons

3 baby ribbon flowers

Finished Size

8" (20cm) width 13" long (33 cm.)

Gauge

Gauge: 7 dc 1” (2.5 cm) 4 rows 1” (2.5 cm) for bodice

Notes

I use plain color yarn for bodice and variegated one at the skirt, it looks much nicer.

The Pattern

Bodice:
Row 1: ch 71 , dc in 4th ch from hook, and each 6 chs (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, dc in next 16 chs) 3 times, 2 dc, ch 1 , 2 dc in next ch, dc , 7 dc in next chs. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2 : dc in next dcs, [2 dc, 1 ch 2 dc, in next ch 1 sp, dc in next dc (18) ] 3 times, dc in next dc.
Row 3-6, repeat row 2
Row 7, now working in rounds, ch 1 for turn [sc until first ch 1 sp, ch 2 , sc in next ch 1 (for armhole)] 2 times, sc until 2 sc before ending, overlap the bodice and work 2 sc in the last 2 sts with the first sts. (for button space)
Row 8-10 : sc in every st, including ch 2 for armhole, do not join

Attach variegated yarn with sl st and change to a bigger hook.

Row 1 sl st with variegated yarn,( sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, ch 11, skip next st, join ch with sc to next st, sc next st), to the end.
Row 2: (working in rounds) sl st in first 2 sc, 5 sc in ch 11, 3 sc in the next ch, sk 2 sc work 5 sc in first 5 ch, 3 sc in next ch, 5 sc in the next chs, sk 2 sc , around. From now on BLO
Row 3-…:(working in rounds, (5 sc in 5 sc sts, , 3 sc next sc, 5 sc next sts, sk 2 sc ) . Remember to work in back loops only.
When 3-4 rows are done, with tapestry needle sew the holes formed with the ch 11 base chs and the sk stitch, with mattress st.
Continue working in rounds until you reach the long of the skirt that you want.
For armholes, (crochet 3 sl st next st) all around.
You will see a chevron like st.

Sew baby buttons (the dc will be your buttonholes) and 3 baby ribbon flowers in front, for a nicer work. I do not add a satin ribbon, as we don’t like too many things in a baby dress.

Enjoy 
Sorry I cannot understand yet how you can post more than 1 pic

But you can go to Flickr by Honeyvarita

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Way too colorful hat

SueB@77 — Sun, 17 May 2009 11:40:35 GMT

Author

By Sue B. Balcom

Introduction

I came across this post pattern in a Vogue knitting magazine and was intrigued by the colors used to make a straight skirt. Of course, I thought wow, that would make an easy color change hat. My children think it looks Rastafarian. It would make a great beret or bag also. I was thinking even felted it may be a really cool fabric.

Materials List

1 skein each of four or more colors of washable wool

Size H crochet hook (or size to match gauge)

Colors of hat in the photo are

A – orange

B – gold

C – turquoise

D – purple

This hat is made from Lamb’s Pride Superwash

Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook or size you usually use for making hats in the round. Hat will be looser with larger hook and tigher with smaller hook.

Finished Size

Measures 8.5" ((21.5 cm) from top to bottom. Approximately 23" or 58.5 cm around at widest point.

Gauge

15 pattern stitches and 9.5 double crochet rows = 4"x4" or 10 cm x 10 cm. This is measured on the non-increase rows.

Notes

In the first few rows the treble becomes the increase stitch necessary to create a flat circle. Once you begin crocheting with no increase, the pattern requires a skipped dc stitch to accommodate the treble. Basically three stitches on three stitches. Feel free to experiment with the color changes, it turns out different every time.

Double Crochet = dc

Treble Crochet = trc

Pattern stitch = Two rows of double crochet, followed by a row of two double crochet stitches and one treble. The treble is worked in the first row of the pattern. The color change is two rows of one color and one row of another color

The Pattern

Row 1: (Color A) With open loop method, make 9 double crochet (dc) in the loop and pull snug.

Row 2: Two dc in each stitch, total of 18 stitches

Row 3: (Color B) Pattern Stitch - *dc in first two stitches, treble crochet (tc) around first dc in first row.* repeat pattern for a total of 27 stitches with 9 stitches into row 1.

Row 4: (Color C) *Double crochet one in first two stitches, inc in next stitch;* repeat between * for a total of 38 stitches.

Row 5: Double crochet in each stitch = 38 stitches.

Row 6: (Color B) Pattern stitch = 57 stitches.

Row 7: (Color D) Double crochet in first two stitches, inc. in next stitch; repeat between * for a total of 75 stitches.

Row 8: One double crochet in each stitch = 75 stitches.

Row 9: (Color B) *Double crochet in next two stitches; Treble around first dc two rows back. Skip one dc* repeat between *.

To End: Continue with two rows of dc in each dc and then a pattern row changing; colors as you desire,

When hat is long enough, end with a row of sc working in front loop, then back loop alternately until end, slipstitch, fasten off, hide ends… GO skiing.

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Daisy Daisy

SueB@77 — Sat, 16 May 2009 10:03:43 GMT

Author

Sue B. Balcom

Introduction

It's spring, and what better way to take in those fresh mornings than with a blooming pair of fingerless gloves. This experiment with pattern design began with a circle of daisy motifs, followed by two rows of daisy pattern and then a modified lace.

Materials List

1 skein each of three colors Elann.com superwash worsted

Real wool, like the Highland brand can be substituted, but I wanted these to be washable in the event the children of my family decide they like them and they disappear.

The colors were:

Gold

White

Celery

Size E – 3.50 mm hook

Finished Size

Gloves fit a small to medium and are about 8-inches long and 7.5 inches around.

Gauge

Daisy motif is 1.25 inches.

Lace pattern repeat of 3 rows deep and 6 stitches is also 1.25 inches.

Notes

Most of my life, I have been crocheting like my grandmother, by the seat of my pants. If it works, I do it. If I think a pattern would be better suited to my way of thinking, I do it. So, if anything here appears unclear, email me and I would be happy to talk you through it.

Like most good ideas, this glove pattern was seeded by a couple of great ideas that have flashed by my face lately. I thought they turned out okay, but I will be tweaking on the pattern as time allows… something I have very little of these days

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

3-dc cluster: (Yarn over draw through loop, yarn over draw through 2 loops) three times in same stitch, yarn over draw through all loops, chain 1. 5-dc cluster: Same as 3-dc cluster only repeat five times and draw thread through six loops on the hook. Chain 1.

Daisy Stitch – This stitch is always worked on the right side only so it’s perfect for rounds. Skip first chain, draw a loop through each of the next 4 chains, wrap yarn around hook, draw through all five loops, chain 1 *insert hook through eye made by chain 1 (center of previous daisy) draw loop through chain of last daisy, draw through next 2 chain, wrap yarn around hook and draw through all 5 loops. Chain 1.

The Pattern

Daisy Center: With gold, use open loop and work 7 single crochet (sc) in the loop, slip stitch (sl) to first sc and close loop gently. Fasten off.

Yep, that’s correct. You can go ahead and make eight of these right off the bat. - four centers for each glove.

Petals: Connect white wool to any sc and chain three (counts as first dc). Do a 3-dc cluster. Chain 3, slip stitch into base of cluster – one flower petal. Slip stitch to the next sc – repeat petal pattern in each sc for a total of 7 petals. End.

DAISY CHAIN - Connect the four blossoms as you crochet each one to form a complete circle. Because there are 7 petals, alternate the connections so you have a sequence of two petals, three petals, two petals and three petals. (See photo).

CUFF:

Row 1. Using Celery, connect to space between petals with a double crochet, (OR CHAIN THREE DEPENDING ON HOW YOU CONNECT YOUR GRANNY SQUARES.) for a 3-dc cluster; chain 3, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in the top of the next petal; chain 3, cluster between flowers, chain 3, sc in top of next petal, repeat… keeping in mind you will have two petals and then three petals with two chains between them and three chains before and after clusters. End with slipstitch to top of first cluster.

Row 2: Single crochet around like this -- chain 1, sc in top of cluster, 3 sc over chain 3 space, 2 sc over chain 2 space, sc in top of cluster. Repeat to end. Slipstitch to top of cluster; 51 stitches.

Row 3: Picot row. Chain 3, skip one stitch, sc, chain three, repeat around for a total of 24 loops. Fasten off. If you are making a cuff, repeat for other side of daisy chain, fasten off, and hide ends.

NOTE: It would look really cool to add a bead at the top of each cluster. HOWEVER, if you wish to make a fingerless glove…. Continue… This is slightly different than the other side so pay attention.

Row 1: With Celery wool, connect to space between flowers with a double crochet, make four more dc in space for a five-dc cluster. Chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, 5-dc cluster in space between flowers, repeat. Slip stitch to top of cluster at the end of the row.

Row 2: Slipstitch into chain 2 space. Chain three (counts as one dc), double crochet in same space. Two dc in each chain 2 space 12 more times, four dc in last chain 2 space; 30 stitches. Just to make it challenging the row below the glove hand will have 5-dc clusters between the flowers and chain 2 spaces between clusters and petals.

Chain 3, begin daisy stitch by drawing up loops in each of next 4 stitches, draw thread through five loops, chain 1 – draw up loop in eye of this first stitch and then in last stitch of previous daisy, and next two stitches, draw thread through chain 1 repeat for a total of two rows. Slipstitch to top of daisy to end row.

Increase row – Chain 1, sc in space, sc in next space, two sc in next space (inc.); repeat sc, sc, inc.; repeat – 40 stitches. Slip stitch into first sc, chain

Lace Pattern:

Row 1: Chain 3, dc in next 2 stitches; chain 3, skip two stitches, sc in next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches,* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 2: Chain 3, dc in top of next two dc *chain1, sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, sc in chain 3 space, ch1, 3 dc over top of 3 dc* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 3: Chain 3, dc in top of next two stitches, *3 dc in chain 3 space, 3 dc in next three stitches*, repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 4: Repeat row 1 lace pattern.

Row 5: Repeat row 2 lace pattern.

Row 6: Repeat row 3 lace pattern.

Row 7: repeat row 1 lace pattern.

Row 8: repeat row 2 lace pattern.

Row 9: (left hand) Repeat row 3 of pattern to the last 9 stitches. Crochet 6 dc instead of three in chain 3 space. 1 dc, 2 dc in one stitch, 1 dc over the previous row dc, 6 dc in next chain 3 space. Join with slipstitch to third chain.

Row 9: (right hand) Begin the pattern row with the first three dc on top of previous dc, then the increases, then continue in pattern, slip stitch to third chain.

Thumb gusset: (left hand) Work row 1 of lace pattern until first 6 dc inc.; attach chain 3 to third dc, chain 3, sc in fourth dc of next 6dc inc.; skipping the dc, 2 dc, dc set of stitches. Chain 3, continue with pattern.

Thumb gusset: (right hand) Chain 3, dc in next two stitches, chain 3, sc in third dc in 6 dc increase; chain 3, skip next dc, 2 dc, dc inc., sc in fourth dc of 6 dc increase, continue in pattern until end of row, slipstitch to third chain.

Repeat row 2 and 3 of lace pattern adding 3dc over thumb chain space. Fasten off.

I used a little white to sc around the edges just for fun… enjoy.

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Simple crochet shawl

HeldaP@2 — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 01:26:07 GMT

Author

Heldasland

Introduction

The beauty of this pattern is that is made for showcasing those beautiful multicoloured yarns we all love .Quite possibly the easiest pattern you'll ever do. Great fun.

Materials List

You decide what yarn you will use and the size of the hook
.This is what I used;
3 x 50g skeins of jawoll colour

3.5mm crochet hook

Finished Size

This all depends on the yarn you decide to use

Gauge

Not needed,

Notes

all stitches are uk crochet

The Pattern

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/03/free-simple-shawl-pattern.html

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A Scarf That Rocks

ChristieP@2 — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 21:00:54 GMT

Author

Christie Pruitt

Introduction

This scarf is so much fun to make! And the colors will keep you going and going....

Materials List

1 skein Socks That Rock, medium weight sock yarn, approx. 380 yards - available at: http://www.bluemoonfiberarts.com
(my color is Fire On The Mountain - and I still had about a quarter of the skein left)

Size "H" Crochet hook

Finished Size

My scarf measured 6" wide x 48" long after blocking.

Gauge

Not essential to this project! Yay!

Notes

This pattern is very easy, but the one thing I had trouble with was keeping my lace loops a consistent size. Pull up the loop to about 1" in height (or desired height) and hold it with your finger while making the next stitch. It will hold the loop in place and keep your loop sizes more even.

The Pattern

Lace Pattern (multiple of 5 sts + 1)

Row 1 (right side) Dc in 4th chain from hook, *sc in next ch, draw up loop on hook to 1", sk next 3 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, rep from * to last 2 chs, sk next ch, sc in last ch, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row throughout), turn.

Row 2: Dc in next dc, *sc in next ch 1 sp, draw up loop on hook to 1", (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sk next dc, sc in top of turning chain, ch 3, turn.

Rep Row 2 for pattern.

Scarf

Ch 26 (more or less depending on desired width. The loops will stretch after blocking to make the scarf a bit wider when finished.)

Work Lace Pattern until scarf is desired length. Fasten off.

Wet block to allow the lace loops to lay flat and stretch out. Blocking was a bit of a challenge - I only had seamstress pins to pin the scarf down with. If you have lace blocking wires those would work awesome for this and would allow for a more consistent width.

Variations:

Try chaining 95 (+1) and work the scarf length-wise. The lace loops will hang vertically for a different look.

This scarf would look just as lovely in a solid yarn!

Also try working this scarf in a lightweight cotton yarn for a light, spring scarf!

More Pics:

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Ruffled Spring Cowl

ChristieP@2 — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 14:50:45 GMT

Author

Christie Pruitt

Introduction

I wanted something frilly and girly - and definitely Spring-like! I stitched this up rather quickly - in a couple of hours - and used less than 230 yards! If you have more yardage to give, you can make all the ruffles long and even more frilly than mine! :)

Materials List

1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 309 (Shell) - Color A
1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 312, Mystery Color I call Plum - Color B
OR any DK weight, mercerized cotton
Crochet hook size "I"
2 buttons (or a Dritz Fabric Button Kit + coordinating fabric)
Sewing needle and thread

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Finished Size

7 ½" tall at tallest point (counting ruffles) x 18" long (will stretch slightly - but is designed to fit snugly.)

Gauge

4 dc = 1"

The Pattern

With Color A, ch 62

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in next 3 chains, dc across to last 4 chains, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.

Repeat this row 2 more times.

Row 4: sc in first sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, (buttonhole made), dc across to last 4 sc, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dc across to 1st sc, sc in this sc, 1 sc in next 2 chains, sc in last sc. Chain 1, turn.

Rows 6 & 7: Repeat Row 1

Row 8: Repeat Row 4

Rows 9 & 10: Repeat Row 1

Fasten off.

Now turn the piece upside down so that you are ready to work into the dc's from Row 1. With Color B, attach yarn around post of 1st dc.

First Ruffle (or bottom edge ruffle)

Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 7 dc into chain 3 space, * 8 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Second Ruffle

Skip next row of dc and work second ruffle into next dc row - or 3rd dc row from the top. Skip first 2 dc's of this row, and attach yarn around post of 3rd dc.

Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (12 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 5 dc into chain 3 space, * 6 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Third Ruffle

Skip next dc row and work third ruffle into next dc row - or 5th dc row from the top. Attach yarn around post of 1st dc of this row.

Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 3 dc into chain 3 space, * 4 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Fourth Ruffle

Skip next dc row and work fourth ruffle into next dc row - or 7th row of dc from the top. Attach yarn around post of 3rd dc of this row.

Repeat instructions for Third Ruffle, keeping in mind you will have 12 chain 4 spaces instead of 13.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Fold the piece so that the buttonhole edge lines up with the opposite edge and using the buttonholes as a guide, place your buttons. (I didn't have any buttons in my stash that matched good enough - so I made mine using the Dritz Fabric Button Kit and some coordinating fabric I found in my stash.)

Steam or Wet Block your cowl, if desired.

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Rose Brooch

Nezumi1 — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 21:49:50 GMT

Author

Michelle Ryan (aka NezumiWorld)

Introduction

Quick and easy rose brooch

has only 2 rows

Materials List

Double knit/ light worsted weight yarn used in choosen rose colour
3.75 mm (5 / F) hook

Brooch back

Finished Size

Small Rose sized

Gauge

Gauge will depend on the materials you use, it a small brooch so experiment.

Notes

Abbreviations:

St – Stitch
Sts – Stitches
dc (UK)/ sc (USA) – Double Crochet (UK)/ Single Crochet (USA)
tr(UK)/ dc (USA) – Treble Crochet (UK)/ Double Crochet (USA)

Ch – Chain

The Pattern

PATTERN LINK IS BELOW - FOLLOW THE LINK FOR FULL INSTRUCTIONS WITH PHOTOS

http://nezumiworld.blogspot.com/2009/02/rose-brooch.html

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Bobble Head

Token — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 21:18:50 GMT

Author

Natalie Brock

Introduction

This pattern grew out of a need to keep my head warm. I couldn't fit my hair into a hat when it's tied up so I designed a hat with a hole in. Now I'm always nice and toastie!

Materials List

Any DK yarn, approx 70m of each colour.
Yarn needle to weave in ends

4mm crochet hook

Finished Size

22cm diameter at smallest end, 27cm diameter at larger end. 13cm wide.

Gauge

5hdc = 2cm

Notes

This pattern is written in US crochet terms

Special stitches:

PC = Popcorn stitch: 5 dc in next st, extend loop and remove hook. insert hook into front of first dc, pick up loop from last dc and draw through, ch1 to close top of popcorn,

VS = V stitch: dc in next st, ch 1, dc in same st.

The Pattern

With A Ch 73 sl st into first chain to join
Row 1: Ch 2 hdc in each chain around. Sl st to join (73 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 23hdc) 3 times hdc in last hdc sl st to join (76 hdc)
Row 3: Attach B Ch 1, sc in next hdc (PC in next hdc, sc in each of next 2 hdc) repeat around until 2 hdc remain. PC in next hdc, sc in last hdc sl st to join.
Row 4: Attach C Ch 2, hdc in next sc, (hdc in top of pc [where ch1 was made in previous row] hdc in each of next 2 sc) repeat around until 1 sc remains.hdc in last sc sl st to join.
Row 5: Pick up A Ch 3 sk 1 hdc (VS in next hdc, sk 2 hdc) repeat around dc in last hdc, ch1, sl st to ch 3 at begining of row.
Row 6: Pick up B Ch 2 (hdc in 1st dc of VS, hdc in ch1 sp, hdc in last 2nd dc of vs) repeat around, sl st to join.
Row 7: Repeat row 3 using C
Row 8: Repeat row 4 using A
Row 9: Repeat row 5 using B
Row 10: Repeat row 6 using C

Rows 11 to 18: Repeat rows 3 to 10 alternating colours until row 18 - use A to finish

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Twice Crochet Beaded Bracelet

craftyspider — Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:58:40 GMT

Author

Natalia Capel

Introduction

This is a little wrist warmer I made although it looks great as a chunky cold weather bracelet. It's beginners although it can get fiddly. I work in Australian terminilogy which is largely like that of the U.K. so a double crochet is a single US and a treble crochet is a double US. I will try to put both in but if I miss one out I will be using the UK terminology and the US in curly {} brackets.

Materials List

Gold Embroidery Thread - about 8 meters
200 x 4mm (6 per inch) seed beads of various matching colours
Sewing and Knitting needles
Marino Supreme Checkheaton - light weight [3] about 20gms
Size 3.00mm crochet needle - Size 0 US - Europe C2 - 00 UK

Size 6.00mm crochet needle - Size J/10 US and Europe - 4 UK

Finished Size

25cm circumference for the bracelet 8cm diameter for the flower

Gauge

Bracelet - 3 treble crochet (double crochet) per inch

Bead string - 10 chains per inch including the chains containing beads

Notes

The beaded chain works best if the tension is varied so as to give a slight random sizing between beads. You will find it easier to string beads onto the length of the embroidery thread and bring a few up near your work at a time. You will need to gently stretch your yarn every so often to tighten the beads into place. That's what worked for me but I tend to crochet more European style so it's up to you.

Note you are in effect creating your own yarn which you will use in conjunction with the wool to crochet the flower.

Tip. Avoid having to unravel your flower at any point. The beaded yarn will tend to get caught up on itself. It will take some patience to get it untangled.

The Pattern

For the beaded yarn. Use size 3.00mm (0) hook

Ch 2, bring a bead close to the last chain and ch over the bead. Ch 3, ch 1 with bead. Cont ch 3, ch1 with bead until yarn measures 2.1 meters. See picture below.

For flower. Use size 6.00mm (J) hook. You must crochet using the wool and your bead yarn at the same time.

Ch 4, ch in the first ch to form a circle. * Ch 5, ch 1 in center of circle. * Rep from * 6 times. Fasten off. Leave some wool for sewing remaining beaded yarn onto the bracelet. Finish by sewing the remaining beaded yarn into the center of the flower by using the wool. Leave some wool underneath to attach the flower to the bracelet.

For the bracelet.

Ch 23, * ch2, tr 1 {dc 1} in second ch from the edge, tr 21 {dc 22}*. Repeat from * to * for 5 rows. Fasten off leaving enough wool to join the two shortest ends together.

Sew the ends together as described above. Attach the beaded flower over the sewn edge taking care to cover all of the seam. Stretch the flower if necessary. Ensure each petal of the flower is separately anchored or it will flap about.

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