Free Crochet Me Patterns : For women, Garments

Cotton Candy Shrug

pfirsch — Wed, 26 Sep 2007 02:09:02 GMT

Author

Josie J. Walker

Introduction

I made myself a shrug using a very basic concept, aka Basic Shrug 101.

Materials List

Yarn: 2 skeins, Light & Lofty, Antique Rose

Hook: Red Heart Crystallites P-16 (11.5mm)

Finished Size

It was made specifically to fit me, but you can easily modify it to fit you.

Gauge

None taken

Notes

Pattern uses US terminology
ch(s) chain(s)
sl st slip stitch
dc(s) double crochet(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
dc dec double crochet decrease
yo yarn over
dc-foundation ch

There is also a tutorial called Triple Base Chain that shows how to do the dc-foundation ch, too

The Pattern

Back:
Row 1: Ch 3, using dc-foundation ch, make 37 dc. Ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Skip first dc, work dc into each dc of previous row, dc into turning ch. Ch 2, turn. (37 dcs)

Rows 3-16: Repeat Row 2. Do not fasten off.

Sleeves:

With wrong side facing, fold work so that Row 1 meets Row 16, sl st to join.

Sleeves will be worked with right side of Back facing.

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 dc into end of each row for a total of 32 dcs. Sl st to join to turning ch. Do not turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, 6 dc, dc dec—yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook, (6 dc, dc dec) 3 times. Sl st to join to turning ch. (28 dcs)
Row 3: Ch 2, (5 dc, dc dec) 4 times (24 dcs)
Row 4: Ch 2, (10 dc, dc dec) 2 times (22 dcs)
Rows 5-10: Ch 2, 22 dcs.
Row 11: Ch 2, dc dec, 18 dc, dc dec (20 dcs)
Row 12: Ch 2, dc dec, 16 dc, dc dec (18 dcs)
Row 13: Ch 2, 18 dcs.
Row 14: Ch 2, dc dec, 14 dc, dc dec (16 dcs)

Weave in ends.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Maui Shrug

CraftKitten1 — Mon, 03 Sep 2007 20:24:29 GMT

Author

Jennifer Reeve

Introduction

Back when I lived in California, I taught a free workshop at my LYS on how to make an easy shrug. This was the pattern I used. I hope you enjoy it as much as my class and I did. It's great to wear over a tank or dress.

Materials List

3,4 or 5 hanks of Tahki “Cotton Classic II” (100% mercerized cotton, worsted weight, 1.75 oz (50 g) 74 yds (68 m)per hank). Size H 5.0 mm hook.

Finished Size

S (12in arm circ/ 38in length), M (14in arm circ/ 40in length), L (18in arm circ/ 42 in length)

Gauge

2 open fans & 9 rows= 6'(15.24 cm)

Notes

Fan: 1 tr, [ch 2, 1tr]4 times.

The Pattern

Ch 47(57,67)

Row 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, *Ch 1, sk 4ch, into next ch work a Fan of 1 tr, [ch 2, 1tr] 4 times, then ch 1, sk 4ch, 1 sc into next ch; rep from * to last 5 ch, 1 ch, sk 4ch, work [1tr, ch2] twice and 1tr into last ch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1sc into first st, *Ch3, sk next 2ch sp, 1dc into next sp**, Ch2, sk next tr, sc & tr then work 1dc into first ch2 sp of next Fan, ch3, work 1sc into center tr of next Fan; rep from * ending last rep at **, Ch1, 1tr into last sc, sk tch. Turn.

Row 3: Ch7 ( counts as 1tr and ch2), sk first tr, work [ 1tr, ch2, 1tr] into the next ch1 sp, ch1 sk ch3 sp, 1sc into next sc, *ch1, sk next ch3 sp, work Fan into next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next ch3 sp, 1sc into next sc; rep from * to end, sk tch. Turn.

Row 4: Ch6 (counts as 1tr, ch1), sk first tr, work 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch3, 1sc into center tr of Fan, *ch3, sk next ch2 sp, 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch2, sk next tr, sc &tr, work 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch3, 1sc into center tr of Fan; rep from * ending last rep in 5th ch(counting from bottom-up) of tch. Turn.

Row 5: Ch1, *1sc into sc, ch1, sk next ch3 sp, Fan into next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next ch3 sp; rep from * to last sc, 1sc into sc, 1ch, sk next ch3 sp, work [1tr, ch2] twice & tr all into 5ch of tch. Turn.

Repeat rows 2-5 until piece measures 38"( 40", 42"). End with either a Row 2 or 4 so that both sides will be flat. Fasten off. Seam arms in desired fashion( I used single crochet to bind both sides together then continued with the edging). Work edging of sc around all edges.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Ice-Blue Ribbon

Annettecrochet — Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:13:57 GMT

Author

by Annette Petavy

Introduction

Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.

So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.

It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.

The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.

Materials List

Yarn: Ribbon yarn working up at the gauge specified below. I used Phildar’s Rivage (50% viscose/50% polyamide, 103m/112yds per 50g/1.75 oz ball). As indicated above, this yarn is discontinued. Googling efforts have lead me to believe that Crystal Palace Yarn’s Mikado Ribbon might work well as a substitute. Yardage: approximately 1100 (1200, 1500) m [1200 (1300, 1650) yds].

Please note that the pattern will work with a more traditional yarn, as long as the gauge is the same. The resulting fabric will look different, though, and this difference will be most noticeable in the crocheted parts. Swatch and see if you like it!

Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
Knitting needles: 6mm (US 10)
Tapestry needle to weave in ends and seam pieces together
Smooth, thin yarn in matching colour for seaming – I used a light blue crochet thread #5.

Finished Size

S (M, L).

Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.

Gauge

Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Notes

All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).

Special knitting stitches:

st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.

DVD: double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.

M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

Single decreases:

Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):

K2togtbl: knit two together through the back loop.

Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):

K2tog: knit two together.

The Pattern

Pattern

Back

With knitting needles, CO 84 (96, 110) sts. Work in st st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 1 (2, 3) cms [1/2 (3/4, 1 1/4)”], ending after a WS row.

Start decreasing for the waist, using the double vertical decrease (DVD) as explained above (decreases are made on the right side of the work):

Decrease row 1 (RS): K 26 (30, 34) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 29 (33, 37) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [80 (92, 106) sts]

Work even for 3 (5, 5) rows.

Decrease row 2: K 25 (29, 33) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 28 (32, 36) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [76 (88, 102) sts]

Work even for 3 (3, 5) rows.

Decrease row 3: K 24 (28, 32) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [72 (84, 98) sts]

Work even for 3 rows.

Decrease row 4: K 23 (27, 31) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [68 (80, 94) sts]

Work even in st st until the piece measures 11 (13, 13) cms [4 ¼ (5, 5)”], ending after a WS row.

Start increasing using M1R and M1L as explained above (increases are made on the right side of the work):

Increase row 1 (RS): K 23 (27, 31), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 24 (28, 32) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [72 (84, 98) sts]

Work even for 5 (7, 7) rows.

Increase row 2: K 24 (28, 32), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 25 (29, 33) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [76 (88, 102) sts]

Work even for 7 rows.

Increase row 3: K 25 (29, 33), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [80 (92, 106) sts]

Work even for 5 rows.

Increase row 4: K 26 (30, 34), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [84 (96, 110) sts]

Work even in st st until the piece measures 28 (30, 30) cms [11 (11 ¾, 11 ¾)”], ending after a WS row.

Start decreasing for the armhole. For decreases of multiple sts, BO the number of sts indicated. For single decreases, use the K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as explained above.

The decreases are worked on every other row, as follows:

Size small only

Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (80 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 2: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (78 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (76 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (74 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5: Repeat Row 2. (72 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 2. (70 sts)

Size medium only

Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 3 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 3 more times. (88 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 2: *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (84 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 3: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (82 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (80 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5: Repeat Row 3. (78 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 3. (76 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 7: Repeat Row 3. (74 sts)

Size large only

Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 4 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 4 more times. (100 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 2: *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (96 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (92 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (88 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (86 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 5. (84 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 7: Repeat Row 5. (82 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 8: Repeat Row 5. (80 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 9: Repeat Row 5. (78 sts)

All sizes

Work even in st st until the piece measures 46 (50, 52) cms [18 (19 ¾, 20 ½)”].

Start shaping the shoulders and the back neck on the same row, working as explained below. Decreases are made every other row.

Mark the center 16 (18, 18) sts.

Shaping row 1: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts at beg of row, work to first marker, BO for neck the 16 (18, 18) sts between the markers, work to end of row. The left and right sides will now be worked separately.

Shaping row 2: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 3: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 4: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 5: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 6: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.

BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.

Work the other side as follows:

Shaping row 2: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 3: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 4: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 5: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.

Shaping row 6: Work even.

BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.

Crocheted bottom border

With crochet hook, work into the bottom edge as follows:

Foundation: *hdc in each of the next 3 knitted sts, hdc2togover the next 2 sts,* rep from * to * across, ch 1 loosely, turn. (Don’t worry if the last repeat is incomplete. You will still have the right ratio of crocheted sts/knitted sts). [68 (77, 88) sts]

Row 1: Hdc in each st across, ch 1 loosely, turn.

Repeat Row 1 until it measures 8 (8, 10) cms [3 1/4 (3 1/4, 4)”], or to desired length.

Front

With knitting needles, work as for back up to armhole shaping. For the front, the armhole shaping and the neck shaping start at the same time.

Armhole shaping: See instructions for back.

Neck shaping

BO the center 2 sts.

Use the single decreases K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as described above to decrease 1 st on every other row 4 times, and 1 st every 4th row 8 (9, 9) times.

Work the shoulder shaping and the crocheted bottom border as described for the back, eliminating instructions for back neck shaping.

Sleeves (make two)

With crochet hook, ch 54 (56, 64), ch 1 loosely, turn.

Row 1: Working in flo here and throughout, work 1 hdc in each ch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.

Row 2: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.

Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 34 (36, 36) cms, omitting the final turning ch-1.

Work the sleeve cap shaping as follows

Note: unless specified, there are no turning chains in this section.

Size small only

Row 1: Ch 1 loosely, sc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts, turn. (52 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn. (26 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 18 sts, sc in next st, turn. (20 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 12 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, turn. (16 sts) Fasten off.

Size medium only

Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 6 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn. (44 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn. (36 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn. (32 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn. (26 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)

Row 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn. (22 sts)

Row 11: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 16 sts, sc in next st, turn. (18 sts)

Row 12: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 12 sts. (12 sts) Fasten off.

Size large only

Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 48 sts, sc in next st, turn. (50 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn. (44 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 38 sts, sc in next st, turn. (40 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn. (36 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn. (32 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)

Row 11: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)

Row 12: Sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn. (22 sts)

Row 13: Sl st in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts. (14 sts) Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. When working with ribbon yarn, make sure your ends are long, and don’t cut them too short when finished – the yarn tends to be slippery. Block the pieces.

Sew shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams working from the right side. For the seaming, use a smooth, thin yarn in matching colour. Pin the sleeves into the armholes, right sides facing together, and sew them into the armhole using back stitch.

I did not finish the neck edges. They roll naturally inward at the front neck and outward at the back edge. If you want to finish them, a simple row of sc around the neck would be a nice option.

Schematics

	cms			inches (rounded to 1/4-inch)
	S	M	L	S	M	L
A = Bust width	44,5	50	57,5	17 1/2	19 3/4	22 3/4
B = Total height	53	63	64	20 3/4;	24 3/4	25 1/4
C = Armhole height	17,5	18,5	21	6 3/4	7 1/4	8 1/4
D = Shoulder width	10,5	11	12	4 1/4	4 1/4;	4 3/4
E = Neck width	15	15,5	16,5	6	6	6 1/2
F = Total sleeve length	42	46	48	16 1/2	18	19
G = Sleeve cap height	8	10	12	3 1/4	4	4 3/4
H = Sleeve width	36	38,5	44,5	14	15	17 1/2

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Daisy

Crochet Me Admin — Fri, 23 Jun 2006 00:17:43 GMT

Author

by Rachel Seeley Merrill

Introduction

This lacy summer skirt was inspired by a gorgeous vintage bedspread pattern. I would never have the patience to crochet hundreds of tiny little squares out of thread to make an entire bedspread, so I designed this skirt as a way to capture the beauty of those patterns in a less painful project. Granted, this is still not a project most could do in a weekend, say, but as you complete each square you get a little thrill of accomplishment to string you along. With a slip or hand-sewn liner, you can wear this beautiful skirt anywhere, or pull it on over your bathing suit for a sexy cover up. Either way, you'll look gorgeous on those hot summer nights.

Materials List

Approximately 6 (7, 8, 9) 123yds (112m) / 50g balls sport weight cotton. I used Paton's Bumblebee 100% cotton, Apple Blossom.
3.75mm (US F-5) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Pre-made slip, or ½ yd (46cm) white cotton fabric and 1 yd (91cm) elastic for lining

Finished Size

small (med, large, x-large)

Hips: 38” (40”, 42”, 44”) [96.5cm (1.02m, 1.07m, 1.12m)]

Length: top of zig zag - 19” (20”, 21”, 22”) [48.3cm (50.8cm, 53.3cm, 55.9cm)], bottom of zig zag - 24” (25”, 26”, 27”) [61.0cm (63.5cm, 66.0cm, 68.6cm)]

Ed. note: See comments at the bottom of this page for tips on how to adjust the pattern for smaller sizes.

Gauge

Daisy Square: 12 st = 4” (10cm)

Stretchy Square: 7 patterns and 12 rows = 4” (10cm)

The Pattern

Pattern overview

Crochet eight daisy squares. On four of the daisy squares, attach thread and crochet one stretchy square on top of the daisy (Fig. A). On the other four squares, attach thread and crochet one stretchy square with attached triangle on top of the daisy square (Fig. B). The waistband will be crocheted directly on after pieces are joined.

Fig. A Fig. B

Daisy square

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Round 1: Work 12 sc into ring, sl st in first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sc in same st (first sc from previous row), work 2 sc in each st around, sl st in ch-1 to join. (24 sts)

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), *skip next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, ch 1,* rep from * to * 6 more times, skip next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

Round 4: Sl st into first ch-sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 3 dc into same ch-sp, ch 1, *skip next ch-sp, work 4 dc into next ch-sp, ch 1* rep from * to * 6 more times, sl st in top st of ch-3 to join. (8 groups of 4 dcs, which form the bases of the flower petals.)

Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *work 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in last dc of group, ch 1, dc in first dc of next group, work 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in last dc of group, ch 2, dc in first dc of the next group,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ending last rep with ch 2, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (Each of the 8 petals widen in this round, alternating between 1-ch and 2-ch spaces in between petals, which is the start of shaping from a circle into a square.)

Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of next 5 dc, *ch 1, dc in each of next 6 dc, ch 3, dc in each of next 6 dc,* rep from * to * 2 more times, ch 1, dc in each of next 6 dc, ch 3, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (This adds one more row to the petals, maintaining the same width, keeping the ch-1 spaces the same, increasing the ch-2 spaces to ch-3.)

Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of the next 5 dc, retaining last loop on hook after each dc (6 loops on hook) yo, draw through all loops on hook, *ch 5, tr into ch-1 sp, ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc retaining last loop of each dc on hook (7 loops on hook), yo, draw through all loops on hook, work [ch 4, tr] 4 times into ch-3 sp to form corner, ch 4, dc in each of the next 6 dc, retaining last loop of each dc on hook (7 loops on hook), yo, draw through all loops on hook,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ending last rep with ch 5, tr into ch-1 sp, ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc retaining last loop of each dc on hook (7 loops on hook), yo, draw through all loops on hook, work [ch 4, tr] 4 times into ch-3 sp to form corner, ch 2, dc in top of ch-3 to join. (This completes the petals and defines the square shape.)

Round 8: [Ch 4, sc into next ch sp] 4 times, *ch 4, tr into corner ch sp, [ch 4, sc into next ch sp] 6 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, ch 4, tr into corner ch sp, ch 4, sc into next ch sp, ch 1, dc in top of dc from previous row to join.

For size small only

Round 9: [Ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 5 times, *[ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, [ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 6 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, [ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, ch 3, sl st in base of beg ch-3 to join.

Round 10: [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 6 times, *work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 8 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 2 times, sl st in first sc to join.

Fasten off. (Square should measure 9.5” [24.1 cm] diagonally.)

For size medium only

Round 10: [Ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 6 times, *[ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, [ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 7 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, [ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, ch 3, sl st in base of beg ch-3 to join.

Round 11: [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 7 times, *work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 9 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 2 times, sl st in first sc to join.

Fasten off. (Square should measure 10” [25.4 cm] diagonally.)

For size large only

Round 11: [Ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 7 times, *[ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, [ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 8 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, [ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, ch 3, sl st in base of beg ch-3 to join.

Round 12: [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 8 times, *work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 10 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 2 times, sl st in first sc to join.

Fasten off. (Square should measure 10.5” [26.7 cm] diagonally.)

For size x-large only

Round 12: [Ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 8 times, *[ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, [ch 3, sc into next ch sp] 9 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, [ch 4, dc in top of tr, ch 4] in corner, sc into next ch sp, ch 3, sl st in base of beg ch-3 to join.

Round 13: [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 9 times, *work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 11 times,* rep from * to * 2 more times, work 4 sc in top of corner dc, [Work 4 sc into next ch-4 sp] 2 times, sl st in first sc to join.

Fasten off. (Square should measure 11” [27.9 cm] diagonally.)

Stretchy square

Arch patt st: Ch 3, insert hook into same ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next ch-3 space, draw up another 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all three loops on hook. (One complete arch.)

Arch decrease: Sl st into ch-3 space, sl st in 1st (far left) ch of ch-3,ch 3, insert hook into base of ch-3, draw up 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook),insert hook into next ch-3 space, draw through 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook.

Attach yarn in upper right hand corner of flower square.

Row 1: Ch 3, insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook),skip 1 sc, insert hook into next sc, draw up another 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all three loops on hook, *ch 3, insert hook into next sc, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook), skip 1 sc, insert hook into next sc, draw up another 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all three loops on hook, ch 3, insert hook into same sc, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook), skip 1 sc, insert hook into next sc, draw up another 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all three loops on hook,* rep from * to * to end of row, ending with ch 3, turn. (13 (14, 15, 16) arches with a little picot on the end.)

Rows 2-21 (23, 24, 27): Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook),insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook (picot complete), work arch patt st across row 13 (14, 15, 16) times, working the last arch into the picot, ch 3, turn.

(As you work the pattern, each row will end up with 13 [14, 15, 16] arches, and picot on either end.)

For square stop here. For square with attached triangle, continue directions for appropriate size.

For size small only

Rows 22-23: Continue in pattern as for rows 2-21.

Row 24: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 12 times, ch 1, turn. (12 full arches)

Row 25: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (11 full arches)

Row 26: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 11 times, ch 1, turn. (11 full arches)

Row 27: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (10 full arches)

Row 28: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 9 times, ch 3, turn. (9 full arches)

Row 29: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row. ch 3, turn. (9 full arches)

Row 30: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 8 times, ch 1, turn. (8 full arches)

Row 31: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (7 full arches)

Row 32: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 1, turn. (7 full arches)

Row 33: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row. ch 3, turn. (6 full arches)

Row 34: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 5 times, ch 3, turn. (5 full arches)

Row 35: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (5 full arches)

Row 36: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 4 times, ch 1, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 37: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (3 full arches)

Row 38: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 1, turn. (3 full arches)

Row 39: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 40: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st, ch 3, turn. (1 full arch)

Row 41: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (1 full arch)

Row 42: Insert hook in base of ch 3, insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn insert hook into ch 3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn. YO, draw yarn through all loops on hook.

Break thread and fasten off.

For size medium only

Row 24: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up a 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (14 full arches)

Row 25: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 1, turn. (14 full arches)

Row 26: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (13 full arches)

Row 27: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row. ch 1, turn. (13 full arches)

Row 28: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (12 full arches)

Row 29: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 11 times, ch 3, turn. (11 full arches)

Row 30: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (11 full arches)

Row 31: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 10 times, ch 3, turn. (10 full arches)

Row 32: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (10 full arches)

Row 33: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 9 times, ch 1, turn. (9 full arches)

Row 34: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (8 full arches)

Row 35: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row. ch 1, turn. (8 full arches)

Row 36: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (7 full arches)

Row 37: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row. ch 1, turn. (7 full arches)

Row 38: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (6 full arches)

Row 39: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 5 times, ch 3, turn. (5 full arches)

Row 40: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (5 full arches)

Row 41: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 4 times, , ch 3, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 42: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 43: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 3 times, ch 1, turn. (3 full arches)

Row 44: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 45: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 1, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 46: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st, ch 3, turn. (1 full arch)

For size large only

Row 26: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (15 full arches)

Row 28: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (14 full arches)

Row 32: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (11 full arches)

Row 34: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (10 full arches)

Row 36: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (9 full arches)

Row 38: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (7 full arches)

Row 40: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (6 full arches)

Row 44: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 46: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 47: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 1, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 48: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st, ch 3, turn. (1 full arch)

For size x-large only

Row 30: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (15 full arches)

Row 32: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (14 full arches)

Row 35: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (12 full arches)

Row 38: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (10 full arches)

Row 40: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (9 full arches)

Row 42: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (8 full arches)

Row 46: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (5 full arches)

Row 48: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 49: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row. ch 1, turn. (4 full arches)

Row 50: Arch decrease, then work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (3 full arches)

Row 51: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st 2 times, ch 3, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 52: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (2 full arches)

Row 53: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st ch 3, turn. (1 full arches)

Row 54: Insert hook into base of chain, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (2 loops on hook), insert hook into 1st ch-3 space, draw up 1/2-inch loop of yarn (3 loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through all loops on hook, work arch patt st to end of row, ch 3, turn. (1 full arch)

Finishing

You should now have eight pieces, 4 like those in Fig. A (above) and four like those in Fig. B (above). Stack them on top of one another. If there are wide variations in the squares' dimensions, you may want to block the individual pieces before sewing them together. Whipstitch each A piece to the bottom of each B piece. You will have four panels that look like those in Fig. C. Matching up diagonal centers of the daisy squares in a straight line, whipstitch the four panels together (see Fig. D). Now fold Point A to Point B, and Point D to Point C and whipstitch the last seam. Attach thread at top to crochet the waistline.

Fig. C

Fig. D

Waistline

At this point, the waist will be very easily stretched out of shape because of the stitch and the way it's at a diagonal. Don't worry if it looks really wonky at this point. You are looking at the ends of the rows, and you will need to sc the end of each row plus the trough in between.

For Small, Medium, Large Only

Row 1: Work 114 (120, 126) sc evenly around waistline, following the approximate pattern of *crochet peak, crochet peak, crochet peak, crochet trough* repeat around.

Row 2: Dc in each sc around.

Row 3: Sc in each dc around.

For X-Large Only

Row 1: Work 132 sc evenly around waistline, following the approximate the pattern of *crochet peak, crochet peak, crochet peak, crochet peak, crochet trough* repeat around.

Row 2: Dc in each sc around.

Row 3: Sc in each dc around.

Drawstring

Ch 200 (212, 224, 236)

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch across to end. Fasten off.

Galaxy Top

katy@4 — Thu, 22 Jun 2006 16:45:18 GMT

Author

by Katy Westcott

Introduction

Edging patterns present us with the opportunity to transform a garment into something unique and extraordinary. The crocheter is free to decide how edgings will be placed when they are completed. It's fun to piece the elements together and watch them slowly grow into a lacy texture, like stars appearing in an evening sky.

I’ve always loved fancy lace edgings. I have updated the classic white cotton T-shirt by adding a lacy collar and bottom trim. The circle motifs recreate this shirt as more delicate, hip and beautiful. I named this the Galaxy Top because its crocheted motifs remind me of a cluster of stars.

Crochet thread is a great material to work with. It’s inexpensive. It’s small and easy to stuff into your travel bag. It will sometimes even get you a “wow” from someone observing how tiny your project is. Keep in mind that delicate crochet is also incredibly time consuming and will require some patience.

Materials List

Mercerized cotton crochet thread, size 10. I used 1 ball in white made by Coats & Clark (325 yds / 297 meters).
3.25mm (size D-3) hook
Fabric scissors
Sewing needle that fits your cotton crochet thread
Cotton T-shirt. It should be 100% cotton in order for it to have the same washing properties as your cotton crochet thread. Make sure it’s a T-shirt you like and that it's in good enough condition to justify spending a lot of time making pretty.
Straight pins
Pencil
Ruler
Dress form for shaping. (This is not absolutely necessary, but definitely helpful. I am thankful that I bought mine last summer at a yard sale!)
Iron (optional)

Finished Size

I used a Medium T-shirt (size 10 from H&M).

Motif measurements are:

Small: 1 ½” (approx. 38mm)
Medium: 1 ¾” (approx. 44mm)
Large: 2” (approx. 51mm)

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. Sizing will vary with the size of your T-shirt. You will use the top half of your shirt as a template for your motifs. For smaller and larger T-shirts just adjust the amount of space between motifs.

Notes

A note of caution for beginners: This shirt is made by connecting circle motifs to the body of an existing shirt. There is a freeform aspect to connecting the motifs.

Washing instructions: This garment should be hand washed and dried flat.

Special Stitch:

Overcast stitch: Working over the edge of your shirt, insert threaded sewing needle into fabric and bring back through to the front. Keep the height of your stitches consistent and the tension even as you work your way around the shirt.

The Pattern

Circle Motifs

The top part of the shirt requires 40 rings: 23 small, 11 medium, and 6 large. The bottom trim of the shirt requires 20 rings: 13 small, 5 medium, and 2 large.

Small Circle Motif

Row 1: Ch 7, sl st to first ch to form ring.

Row 2: Ch 1, work 17 sc all into ring.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each sc around (34 dc). Sl st to top of ch-2 and fasten off.

Medium Circle Motif

Row 1: Ch 13, sl st to first ch to form ring.

Row 2: Ch 1, work 23 sc all into ring.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each sc around (46 dc). Sl st to top of ch-2 and fasten off.

Large Circle Motif

Row 1: Ch 19, sl st to first ch to form ring.

Row 2: Ch 1, work 29 sc all into ring.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each sc around (58 dc). Sl st to top of ch-2 and fasten off.

Cutting the Top Off Your Shirt

Use a ruler to measure your sleeve seam from the armpit to the shoulder seam. Find the halfway point and mark it. Do this for the left and the right seams on the front and back of the shirt. Using your ruler and pencil, draw a line across the front between these marks and another line across the back. Starting with the front of the shirt under one arm, cut along the sleeve seam. Staying close to the seam, cut until you get to the line that marks the halfway point. Cut across on this line to the opposite sleeve seam. Cut along the opposite sleeve seam to armpit. Repeat these steps for the back of the shirt until you’ve completely removed the sleeves and top of the T-shirt in one piece. Set the top part of your shirt aside, as you will use it later as a template for arranging circles.

Creating a Border to Work From

Fold the cut edge of your T-shirt over about ¼”. (You may want to pin it down and iron it to facilitate sewing). Thread your needle with crochet cotton. Starting at one of the side seams, work in overcast stitch around the shirt about 1/8” down. The stitch should sit on top of the edge of the fold. Pull the work as tight as you can without bunching up the fabric but loose enough to crochet into. Space the stitches out evenly around the shirt, about 1/8” apart.

Use the top of the overcast stitch as if it were a foundation chain; sc 1 into each ch. Ch 1 at each of the four corners.

Arrange Circle Motifs onto Template

The part of the shirt that was cut away from the body will be used as a template for crocheting its new bodice. The idea is to create a 3-row-wide band of circles that passes over each shoulder. One row of circles will run across the front and back of the shirt to connect these “sleeves” to the body.

Starting at the front bottom edge of your template, arrange the circle motifs, staggering the various sizes of circles. As you puzzle the motifs together, keep in mind that the shirt will be three dimensional on the body. Some of the circles will need to be pinned over the top of the sleeve to connect the front and the back of the shirt. Make sure that a few of the circles hang over the bottom edge of the shirt about ¾” to 1". These will be attached to the shirt itself, so there should be a uniform bottom edge to the circles that hang off the bottom of your template.

Leave anywhere from ¼” to ½” of space between motifs, or as much room as you need to leave in order to make all of the circles to fit on your shirt. (Feel free to use more or fewer motifs than the pattern recommends, if needed). Once you have them where you want them, pin the circles down. You can always move them later if they don’t seem right.

Attach Circles to Shirt

Next you will attach your circles to the body of the shirt. Begin by placing the top and bottom pieces of the shirt down flat as they were before you cut them apart. The bottom edge of the circles that are hanging off the top template should be just touching the top edge of your shirt body. Pin to connect the edge of each circle motif where it touches the sc border of the shirt. Slip stitch on the reverse side to connect each motif in place of where you have pinned.

Repeat to attach circle motifs to back of shirt.

Connect Circles to Each Other

This is the part that is somewhat freeform.

Connect the front motifs to each other by weaving back and forth in chain stitch. Your chain should make a zigzag pattern to fill the spaces between the circle motifs with a structural lacy web. Make sure that your chain is only as long as the amount of space between the circles. Otherwise there will be weird puffy spots or buckles in your fabric. This is where a dress form comes in handy, because it helps keep female shaping instead of working flat.

In some places you will need to slip stitch over the top of a ring that sits higher than the others so its edge will continue the edge of the border. You may also find dc and triple crochet helpful for navigating the gaps between your motifs.

Be careful not to crochet any tighter or looser than necessary to join the circles.

When you get to a chain stitching dead end, leave an inch of thread, knot it, and weave in your end.

Try the shirt on before connecting the circles at each armpit. This area requires tighter shaping and will need to be pinned on your body in order to fit correctly.

Bottom Trim

Cut bottom of T-shirt off just above its hem (mine was about ½”). Repeat folding and overcast stitch steps from above. Arrange circle motifs to hang down off of bottom edge of shirt and pin, leaving an equal amount of space between each motif to use all of your circles. Slip stitch into the foundation chain to attach to shirt. Fill in the space between circles by zig-zagging in chain stitch as explained above. Make sure the bottom edge of the trim is a straight line that is parallel to the bottom edge of the shirt.

Finishing

Weave in loose ends.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Crystal Lace Bolero

Robyn@6 — Wed, 21 Jun 2006 23:18:56 GMT

Author

by Robyn Chachula

Introduction

For me, inspiration comes from literally everything I touch. This bolero is all emotions. See, my best friend recently moved to Phoenix and since I live in the east coast, I definitely had mixed emotions. On one hand I was jumping for joy, because it was their dream move, and really, a perfect city for them. But on the other hand, what on earth can you crochet for your biggest supporter when she moves to the hottest city in the US? So Crystal’s lace was born. It all started with the notion of hot weather crocheting. You want something that is small and very portable… Hmm, obviously it must be a granny square. Now for fiber, yes cotton is great, but where’s the elastic in it? And Phoenix does have cool nights… Ah, a light wool/nylon blend. And presto!, the bolero was born. So watch out, you never know when your emotions are going to challenge you to crochet!

Ed. note: Robyn has written a blog post to address common questions about the bolero.

Materials List

Softwist by Berroco, #9467 Amethyst, (41% wool, 59% nylon), 100 yds (91m): 5 (7, 9) hanks
5.50mm (US size I/9) hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Yarn for this project was generously supplied (and wound beautifully) by Dream Weaver Yarns.

Finished Size

Small, (Medium, Large)

To fit bust sizes 28”-32”, (33”-36”, 38”-44”) and upper arm circumference 9” (12”, 15”).

Gauge

4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) = 1 granny square

Special Stitches:

Cluster (CL): Yo, *insert hook into ring, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,* repeat from * to * twice more, yo, draw through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes

Please watch size as you join granny squares. Softwist is very elastic and will stretch, so if you plan on using a different yarn, check fit often. Fit is intended to be relaxed.
Keep in mind that you can easily alter the garment by changing the layout of the granny squares. For example, if you would prefer cap sleeves, leave off the grannies at the arm. Or if you want a shrug; leave off the grannies at the front panels. The options are yours, enjoy exploring.
Written instructions are provided along with diagrams. Click diagram thumbnails to enlarge.

The Pattern

Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36)

See stitch diagram for assistance (click to enlarge).

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc in top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 6 more times, ch 2, dc in top of hdc of previous round.

Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * two more times, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into dc of previous round.

Round 4: *Ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times ending with sc into last ch sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Half Granny Square: Make 0, (2, 0).

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ch 2, dc into next ch-3 sp, turn.

Round 3: Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch-5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn.

Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

3/4 Granny Square: Make 4, (2, 4)

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 5 more times, ch 2, dc into ch-3 sp, turn.

Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp*, repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn.

Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* repeat from * to * 1 more time. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Joining

Use Small Layout, Medium Layout, Large Layout, and Legend for placement of grannies. Join all grannies as shown in the layout, then join arm and side seams in the same manner.

Joining four grannies (see diagram): Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog in ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into ring, ch 3, CL in ring,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch1, sc in ch-5 sp of corner of granny, ch 1, CL in ring, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog, (center made) dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny (see picture), *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining between centers (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-3 sp of next center, ch 3, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining Continues (see diagram): ch 6, sl st into first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog into ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp of next joining, ch 1, CL into circle,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog (center made), dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, **ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,** repeat from ** to ** 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining at Cuff Edge (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the first granny, ch 2, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the second granny, ch 3, sl st into previous ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Edging at Neck and Front Panel (see diagram): Join yarn to ch-3 sp of center, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of granny, {if at neck edge, [ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp] twice, ch 3, sc into next ch-3 sp of center}. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Arm Cuff

Join yarn to underarm with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 6, turn.

Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, work 2 sl st into ch sp of granny (first sl st joins row to bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn.

Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around arm cuff. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp and every SC. Whip stitch cuff together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Collar

Join yarn to back with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 13, turn.

Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, sl st into ch sp of granny twice (first sl st joins row to bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (12 sts)

Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn.

Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around collar. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp. Whip stitch collar together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Shrug Off Winter

Megan_Granholm — Mon, 13 Mar 2006 20:54:18 GMT

Author

by Megan Granholm

Introduction

Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

Materials List

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
3.5mm/Size E hook
2 small buttons
yarn needle

Finished Size

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos)

Gauge

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Notes

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

The Pattern

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook (counts as dc + 2 chains). *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked (4 loops on hook). Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. 34 (35, 36, 37) clusters. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the 3rd ch of the tch. Ch 3, turn

Row 3-17. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the top of the tch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the top of the tch. Ch 1, turn.

Row 19. Sc in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Work clusters across through the second to last cluster. Do not work the last cluster to end the row. Decrease made at beginning and end of row: 32 (33, 34, 35) clusters. Ch 1, turn. (Note: you will leave the tch or ch-3 sp from the beg of the previous row unworked.)

Row 20-29. Repeat row 19. Fasten off at the end of row 29.

Back

Ch 102 (108, 117, 120).

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked (4 loops on hook). Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. 32 (34, 37, 38) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2. Sl st to first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Work clusters across through the second to last cluster. Do not work last cluster to end row. Decrease made at beginning and end of row: 30 (32, 35, 36) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3-11. Repeat row 2. Fasten off at end of row 11: total off 12 (14, 17, 18) clusters.

Front

Right Side

Ch 18.

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook). Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. (4 clusters.) Ch 6, turn.

Row 2. Dc in 6th ch from hook. Make 4 clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 3 clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in 3rd ch of tch. Make 1 inc cluster. Ch 24, turn.

Row 4. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop off each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * five times. Make 3 clusters across row (9 clusters). Ch 1, turn.

Row 5. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 7 clusters, and 6 (7, 8, 8) inc clusters. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Make 12 (13, 14, 14) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 11 (12, 13, 13) clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in top of tch. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 8 (9, 10, 10) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 5 (6, 7, 7) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 (3, 4, 4) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 1 cluster. Fasten off.

Left Side

Ch 18.

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked.. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. (4 clusters.) Ch 1, turn.

Row 2. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 clusters, and 2 inc clusters. Ch 6, turn.

Row 3. Dc in 6th ch from hook. Make 4 clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 clusters and 7 inc clusters. Ch 15 (18, 21, 21), turn.

Row 5. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * two times. Make 10 clusters across row: 13 (14, 15, 15) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 12 (13, 14, 14) clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in the 3rd ch of tch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Make 11 (12, 13, 13) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 8 (9, 10, 10) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 5 (6, 7, 7) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 (3, 4, 4) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 1 cluster. Fasten off.

Sew back and front pieces to sleeves.

Finishing

Attach yarn with sl st to the back piece, underneath the right sleeve. Ch 2, hdc in the next stitch and in each stitch across the bottom of the back. Continue across the bottom left front. Work 2 hdc in the corner st. Continue to work in hdc up the side of the front piece. At the top seam where the sleeve joins to the front, work 2 dc. Work in tr across the top of the arm. Make a 4-tr decrease at the top seam where the sleeve joins to the back. Tr in each stitch across the back. Make a 4-tr decrease at the top seam where the right sleeve joins to the back. Tr across the top of the arm to within 2 st of the sleeve seam. Work 2 dc where the sleeve joins the front. Continue to work in hdc around front. Work 2 hdc in the corner st. Hdc in each remaining st and sl st to join to first hdc. Fasten off.

Attach yarn with sl st to the cuff of the sleeve at the seam. Ch 4, tr in each st around. Sl st to top of ch-4 to join. Fasten off. Repeat with other sleeve.

Starting at the bottom inside corner of the right front piece, join with a sl st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. Ch 5, sk 1 st, sc in each of next 3 sts, ch 5, sk 1 st, sc to corner. 2 sc in corner st, then work hdc in next st, dc in next st, then tr across arms and back, decreasing over 4 sts at the top where the sleeve joins the back, until 3 sts remain at top of left front corner (above buttons). Work dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Fasten off.

Sew two covered buttons to the inside edge of the left front piece. (See covered button tutorial for instructions.)

Schematic

Rosebud Shrug

VashtiB — Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:47:10 GMT

Author

by Vashti Braha

Introduction

Shrugs don't get any easier than this: it's a simple rectangle and there's NO seamin', NO sizin', NO shapin'. It's also probably the only 1-skein shrug out there, but if you want to use 2 skeins, you can add an edging or make the sleeves longer or make it plus-sized. It works because the yarn is so stretchy, so it does the shaping and sizing for you. There's no seaming because you lace up the sleeves with ribbon. Remove the ribbon and it becomes a scarf/neckwarmer. As an added bonus, the stitch pattern is eye-catching, so this handy shrug will even turn heads. Now, if it would only balance your checkbook...

Materials List

Patons Katrina yarn (163yds/150m per 100g/3.5oz.), "Dusk," 1 (2) skeins
- Pattern instructions will include tips for using alternate yarns. (Ed. note: I'm told by Patons that Katrina will be discontinued, but should still be available for purchase at press time.)
- Some stretchy substitutes to experiment with, of roughly similar weight, are:
- - Classic Elite's Star, 2+ balls (cotton and lycra)
- - Cascade Fixation, 2+ balls (cotton and elastic)
- - Sock it to Me Collection's Esprit, 2+ balls (seems similar to Cascade's Fixation; available at www.elann.com)
- - Schoeller Stahl's Merino Stretch, 1 ball (44% Merino)
- - Schachenmayr Only Stretch, 2 balls (40% superwash wool)
Size US8-H / 5.0mm crochet hook
2 lengths of 1.5-inch-wide ribbon, each 1.5 yds long
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Finished Size

Small (Large)

5" X 33", unstretched (6.5" x 43", approximately)

The goal is to end up with a rectangle that measures 5" X 33" unstretched (for small size) because that's what I got out of 1 skein of Katrina. The width (# of stitches across) could be up to 5.5" and still fit average upper arms the same; or 6" to 6.5" for plus-sized upper arms. The length (total # of rows) could go as low as about 30" for comfortably short sleeves, up to maybe 60" for long sleeves, depending on how long your arms are.

Gauge

Gauge is not a big deal. Here's the gauge I got: 4 pattern repeats, plus the stitches that begin and end each row = 5". Four rows = 3.5".

Just follow the pattern, because the shrug is like one long gauge swatch anyway. If you are experimenting with one of the cotton yarns listed above, you'll probably need to go down a hook size and and do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4.

Notes

Ch(s) – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch

Picot - ch 4 then sl st in the 4th ch from hook

The Pattern

Instant Perfect-fit Shrug

Foundation: Ch 25. (Chain 29 if you're going to do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4 -- see Gauge.)

Row 1: Sl st in 4th ch from hook (1 picot made), ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, skip next two foundation chs, sc in each of next 3 chs, *ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, skip next foundation ch, sc in each of next 3 chs*, rep from * to * across; at end of row, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, picot, *ch 3, picot, ch 2, sc in middle picot of 3-picot group on the previous row, ch 2. Get the sc just made out of your way by pushing it down toward you, sl st into 1st ch, of the last 4 chain stitches just made, to form picot, make picot, repeat from * across to end; turn.

Row 3: Make 2 picots. Pushing the picots on either side of the three chains from the previous row toward the back of work, sc in top 2 loops of each of the 3 chs. Work *3 picots, sc in top loops of next 3 chs, rep from * across, end with 1 picot, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern until you run out yarn, or until you achieve your preferred sleeve length. Fasten off and weave in ends.

To wear as a shrug, lace ribbon through last 12 rows (or best fit) at each end of long rectangle, as if you're lacing up sneakers. Tie ends into a bow at cuff edge.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Jolly Rancher

EvenH — Sun, 29 Jan 2006 00:48:35 GMT

Author

by Even Howard

Introduction

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves. No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter. Cozy yarn to the rescue! This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down. Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape. You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look. Either way, you’ll be warm. Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

Materials List

Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.
Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.

Finished Size

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd. You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

Gauge

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

Notes

The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

The Pattern

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across. Ch 1and turn.

Row 2: Work sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2 as follows: Work a total of 72 rows for 33-inch, 80 rows for size 36-inch, and 88 rows for 39-inch. If you would like to make it larger or smaller make sure the total number of rows can be divided evenly by 8. At the same time, on every 6th and 8th row work a button hole row as follows: Sc in each of first 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. Work sc across the next row, working 2 sc in the ch-2 space.

After final row, sl st edges together to form a loop and turn right side out (sl st edge goes inside). Turn work to long edge, ch 1 and work one sc stitch per row along one side. The total number of sc must equal your number of rows for the lace pattern to work, so be sure and check!

Skirt body

Round 1: Continuing with 8mm hook, ch1 and sc1 in same space. *Ch3, sk 3 sc, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc**, 1sc in next sc*. Repeat * to *around, ending the last repeat at **. Ch3, sl st in first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as a tr). * Skip the first ch-3 space. Work (1tr, ch3) four times in the next ch-3 space. Work 1 tr in the same ch-3 space. Skip next ch-3 space** and tr into sc st*. Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 4 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1 and sc in same space. * Ch 4. Skip next ch-3 space. Sc in next ch-3 space, ch3, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4, skip next ch-3 space**, sc in tr st *. Repeat * to * across, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc). * Ch 3, skip ch-4 space. Work (1dc, ch 3, 1dc) in next ch-3 space. Ch 3. Skip ch-4 space.** Dc in next sc *. Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Repeat rounds 2-4 to continue skirt body. At the same time, on every 5th round, change hook size to 1mm larger, beginning with Round 5. (Round 5 = 9mm hook, Round 10 = 10mm hook, Round 15 = 11mm hook). Skirt as shown is 15 rounds long and ended on a round-3 pattern. Feel free to add more if you like.

Edging

Round 1: With size 11mm hook and thick yarn (A), ch 1. Working only in the chain spaces, work sc around placing 5 sc sts in each ch-4 space and 4 sc sts in each ch-3 space. Skip all sc stitches from the previous row. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Working in front loops only, sc in each of first 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc (picot made),* sc in each of next 8 sts, make picot in next st **, sc in each of next 4 sts, make picot in next st*. Repeat around, ending the last repeat at ** and two sts remaining. Sc in each of the last 2 sts and sl st into first sc to close. Tie off yarn and weave in end.

Round 3: Change to F hook and join Kid Silk Haze (B).Work 1 sc into the back loop of the sc below. Continuing in the back loops only, work * Ch 5, sc in next sc * around. Pass behind picots, skipping the chain stitches and working in the backs of each sc. Ch 5 and sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Sl st up first 3 chains to begin at the middle of the ch-5 space. Sc in ch-5 space. *In next ch-5 space, work (1tr, ch 2) 4 times. Tr once more in same space **. Sc in next ch-5 space *. Repeat around, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join. Tie off and weave in ends.

Round 5: With size 11.5mm hook, join yarn (A) to remaining back loops of round 2. Ch 4 (counts as a dc plus 1 ch). * Skip one sc and dc into next sc. Ch 1. * Repeat * to * around. Skip last stitch and sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.

Repeat Round 5 twice more. Tie off and weave in ends.

Finishing

Weave ribbon or other belt through the button holes (I used a thin knit belt from an old sweater). Finish ribbon ends by clipping them in a ‘V’ shape so they won’t fray. I didn’t block this skirt, but if you want to, go right ahead! You can wear a slip or an a-line, flared, bias cut, or pencil skirt underneath easily, but please experiment with other shapes and let me know how it goes!

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

New Wave Bohemian Vest

CraftKitten1 — Wed, 04 Jan 2006 19:30:57 GMT

Author

by Jennifer Reeve

Introduction

Inspired by the handcrafted hippy look of the Woodstock generation, this modern take on the gypsy vest is a must-have accessory. The vest is wearable no matter what your style, dress it down with jeans and a tank top, dress it up with slacks and a tunic. This piece will see you from the dog days of summer through the cool crisp days of fall and even on to chilly winter nights.

Materials List

Rayon Boucle by Fiesta (240 yds per 4 oz.) color #2131 Taos, 4-5 hanks
US J (6mm) hook

Finished Size

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
Bust: 35” (38” 40”, 43”, 46”)

Gauge

5 chain arches and 10 rows over 4 inches (10cm)

Notes

US Pattern conventions used
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Rep – repeat
Dec – decrease
Sl st – slip stitch
St – stitch
Tr – treble crochet

The Pattern

Back

(Working from bottom of vest to underarm)

Ch 40 (50, 60, 70, 80).

Row 1: 1 sc into 4th ch from hook, *3 ch, sk 1 ch, 1 sc into next ch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: *3 ch, 1 sc into next 3 ch arch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Rep 2nd row until piece is desired length from underarm. (Sample is approx. 33 inches.)

Shape armholes

Dec Row 1: Sl st across 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) chain arch(es) by working a sl st in each chain (and in any sc between chain arches). Sc in next ch arch. Continue in established pattern leaving last 1 (2,2,2,3) ch arch(es) unworked.

Work in established pattern for another 8”. Fasten off.

Front (Make 2)

Ch 26 (28, 30, 34).

Row 1: 1 sc into 4th ch from hook, *3 ch, sk 1 ch, 1 sc into next ch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: *3 ch, 1 sc into next 3 ch arch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Rep 2nd row until piece is desired length from underarm. (Sample is approx. 33 inches.)

Shape armhole

Dec Row 1: Sl st across 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) chain arch(es) by working a sl st in each chain (and in any sc between chain arches). Sc in next ch arch. Continue in established pattern to end of row. Work even in established pattern for 6 more rows.

Shape Neck

At opposite side of armhole, sl st into 1st ch, sc in ch arch. Continue working in established pattern, working a sl st into first ch of each row that begins at neck edge until 4 ch arches remain. Work 2 more rows or until piece measures 8 inches from bottom of armhole. Fasten off.

Attach pieces in desired fashion (ex. sewing, slip stitch, single crochet)

Fan Edging

Join yarn at bottom corner.

Rnd 1: Work 1 round sc all the way around. (Along bottom, work 1 sc into each ch. Along sides work 2 sc in each half diamond and 1 sc in each corner of full diamond. Around back neck edge work 1 sc in each ch arch and each sc.) Join with sl st.

Rnd 2: Sc in next st. *Sk 3 sc. Work a fan of 7 Tr in next st. Sk 3 sc. Sc in next st** rep to where you would like to place tie. Sk 3 sc. Work 4 Tr in next st. Ch 31. Sc in each ch back to fan. Finish fan with 3 more Tr.* work from * to * once (to place 2nd tie) and from * to ** all the way around, ending with sl st into first sc.

Armhole edging

Join yarn at bottom seam.

Rnd 1: Work 1 round sc all the way around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 2: Sc in next st. *Sk 3 sc. Work a fan of 7 Tr in next st. Sk 3 sc. Sc in next st* rep all the way around sl st into first sc.

Note: If fans do not work out exactly evenly spaced in end, Don’t Panic. This is why we start in an inconspicuous place.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Water's Edge Cover-up

Joyful Abode — Wed, 04 Jan 2006 18:41:51 GMT

Author

by Emily Nelson

Introduction

Whether you’re lounging by the pool, skipping rocks on the river, walking by the ocean, or relaxing on the lake, you’ll find that this swimsuit cover-up fits perfectly into the scene. Make one to match each of your swimsuits, and more to match your moods. One simply won’t be enough!

Materials List

Hook, size H/8 (5.00mm) OR size needed to obtain gauge
Worsted weight cotton (I used about 2.5 balls of Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream to make a size 32” with 23 pattern rows.)
Two buttons, about 3/4” diameter
1 needle that will fit through the holes in your buttons

Gauge

4 sc per inch

Notes

When choosing a size, measure where you’d like the top of the cover-up to sit.

Sizes: 32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”)

US pattern conventions used
ch(s) = chain(s)
sc(s) = single crochet(s)
dc(s) = double crochet(s)
sk = skip
bet = between

The Pattern

Begin

Foundation: Chain 135 (144, 153, 162, 171, 180).

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 4. Turn.

Row 2: 5 dc in 4th sc. Ch 1, sk 3, dc in next sc. (Dc in next sc. Ch 1, sk 3. 5dc in next sc. Ch 1, sk 3. Dc in next sc.) 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Ch 3. Turn.

Row 3: 2 dc in first dc. Ch 1. Dc bet 2nd and 3rd dcs in shell. (Dc bet 3rd and 4th dcs in shell. Ch 1. 5 dc bet 2 dcs in pair. Ch 1. Dc bet 2nd and 3rd dcs in shell.) 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Dc bet 3rd and 4th dcs in shell. Ch 1. 3 dc in top of ch-3. Ch 4. Turn.

Row 4: 5 dc bet 2 dcs in pair. Ch 1. Dc bet 2nd and 3rd dcs in shell. (dc bet 3rd and 4th dcs in shell. Ch 1. 5 dc bet 2 dcs in pair. Ch 1. Dc bet 2nd and 3rd dcs in shell) 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Ch 3. Turn.

Rows 5 -?: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until your cover-up is the desired length.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

To attach buttons

Using yarn or embroidery floss, sew one button onto a corner, attaching it to the row of sc at the beginning. Sew the other button on the same row of sc, just over the first dc pair.

Button Note
When sewing the button, don’t forget to leave a bit of space between the button and the fabric of the cover-up. Wrapping a bit of the yarn or floss a few times between the button and the fabric will solve this problem by making a shank.

If you’d like to use yarn to sew your buttons on, but can’t fit it through the eye of a needle small enough to sew the button on, try this: Cut a short length of yarn, and split it in half, using only 1 or 2 strands to sew with.

Your button holes are in the first row of pattern stitching opposite the buttons. The first is the hole at the corner, and the second is between the last two dcs in a pair. When you button the cover-up, one stitch pattern will overlap.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Perfect Pencil Skirt

Crochet Me Admin — Fri, 23 Dec 2005 18:00:52 GMT

Author

by Josi Hannon Madera

Introduction

A super-easy skirt pattern (all single crochet!) with explanations to help you tailor it perfectly to your measurements.

Remember when you first started to crochet -- your grand plans for designing the wardrobe of your dreams, your visions of clothing perfectly tailored to your body, created from fibers and colors you adore... do you remember?

Maybe you tried your hand at a few patterns and wondered why your results were always box-like, formless swaths of chunky yarn that bulk at the seams and look completely homemade (in the worst connotation of that word... y'know, like Eddie Murphy's houseburgers...).

Crochet Couture techniques are going to change all of that for you. Don't be afraid -- it's easier than the highfalutin name might imply. Crochet Couture simply means using the same techniques employed in constructing sewn garments (darts, insets, gussets, etc.) for the purpose of creating crocheted clothing that curves with the body and is tailored perfectly. The best part is that these techniques are generally easier to implement in crochet than with needle and thread.

The easiest and most practical of these to learn is crocheted darts. In sewn garments, a dart is placed within a piece of fabric to help it become more 3-dimmensional (as in the bust line), or to tuck away excess fabric in place of using a seam (as in flat front pants). In crochet, it is much, much easier to achieve the same shaping merely by using internal increases and decreases. With the following pattern, you will create a skirt that fits you to a T, using all sc -- what could be cooler than that? Hmmmm?

To start, you need a measuring tape, a full-length mirror, a pen and a piece of paper. You need 3 measurements (use mirror to make certain tape placement is accurate, level and doesn't pinch or pull the skin).

Your waist -- take this measurement at your belly button. Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" elastic to this measurement. Sew each strip into a ring, making certain not to twist elastic and overlapping ends no more than 3/4".

Your hips -- this measurement is 7"-9" below your natural waist and should be taken at the fullest part of your tushie.

Length -- while facing the mirror and with your feet about 6" apart, decide how long you would like your skirt to fall and make a small mark on your leg. Hold the top of the measuring tape to your belly button and measure straight down to the level of the mark. Make certain to write down this length measurement.

Take a moment to look at how your body changes from one measurement to the next. The increase from your thighs to your hips takes place on your sides and in the back -- so that's where extra fabric needs to be included in order to fit around your curves. If you crocheted a simple tube with evenly placed increases it would pull funny around your tush, sit awkwardly on your hips and stretch in unflattering ways when you move. But if you carefully place the increases and decreases to match your shape you create a seamless, tailored skirt with a custom "bottom pocket" and a waistband that lays flat.

The techniques in this pattern can be used with other yarn weights/hook size combinations. Through experimentation, however, I've found you get the best precision for the least amount of stitches with light worsted weight yarns and a 5.00mm hook. (Following this pattern is a link to instructions for this same skirt using sport weight yarn and a 4.00mm hook. If you want to use a more bulky yarn, I'd recommend a fuzzy/furry one or else the little gaps inside the stitches might be more revealing than you anticipated.)

Materials List

A short list of recommended yarns:
Patons - Katrina, Classic Merino Wool, Decor, Canadiana
Lion Brand - Imagine, Cotton-Ease, Monet
Bernat - Harmony, Denimstyle, Berella
1/4" elastic (approx. 2 yds)
Sewing thread
A needle
5.0mm (size H) hook

Finished Size

Custom

Gauge

Gauge Swatch (don't skip this step!):

Using a 5.00mm hook, db-ch 12

Row 1 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 chain, turn.

Row 2 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Rows 3 to 10 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Measure in the center of the swatch. Adjust hook/tension to achieve this gauge:

10 sts = 3"

8 rows = 2"

Using this gauge and your measurements, you can determine how many stitches you need for your starting chain. Crochet has some stretch, so to create a fitted skirt that hugs your heinie without any ease (ease is the technical term for the space in between the clothing and the body), you should go about 10% smaller than the gauge.

Confused? Don't stress. Contrary to what Barbie might think, math is easy. The first part of this pattern walks you through the steps and tells you how you can adjust the numbers to fit you perfectly. Following the explanation is a pattern for this skirt in 4 general sizes (2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16). To help you along, the written instructions are color-coded to the rows in the pattern that they describe. Try it the hard way first and only peek at the answer if you get stumped.

Our gauge says 10 stitches for every 3 inches. That means there are 3.33 stitches for each inch. If we shave off 10%, we get 3 stitches per inch. So, the number of stitches for the widest part of your skirt should be -- your hip measurement x 3... well, almost. It makes all the other parts of the skirt easier to work out if you use a number evenly divisible by 4. Here's an example:

Let's say your hips measure 39". That would mean you need 39 x 3, or 117 stitches. However, 117 is not evenly divisible by 4, so you should round to the nearest number that is -- and in this case that is 116 stitches. Your starting chain should be 8 stitches fewer than this number. Again, if you don't want to bother with the math, a pattern follows, but it won't fit you as perfectly if you do it that way.

Notes

See tutorials for db-ch, sc-reduce, and the bump stitch.

The Pattern

To make your skirt:

db-ch your starting chain (use number from above) and join to form a ring.

Row 1 (right side) - ch 1 (does not count, work first stitch of this row and every other into same stitch as joining), 1 sc into each chain, join with sl st to first sc, turn.

For a 13" skirt repeat Row 1 for a total of 16 rows. For a longer skirt, add 4 rows for each inch over 13. (You can make it precise to the 1/2-inch, if you like, but make certain to end on an even numbered row.)

Over the next 12 rows, you will place increases at the sides and in the back to allow for your curves.

The first set of increases happens in the back right under the buttocks. In each of the next 4 rows, add one additional sc by working 2sc/st once/row, for a total of 4 additional stitches. To determine where to place the stitches, divide your starting chain number by 6. This number is how many stitches in from the sides your tushie increases need to be in order to be under your cheeks and slightly to the outside. All four increases should be in the back of skirt (the seam where you join and turn will sit along your right hip.)

The second set of increases goes more slowly -- first a row of all sc without an increase, then a row with one increase, for 8 rows (4 total increases). These increases are placed just inside of the hips, 2 in front, 2 in back. Depending on size, I place the increases between 5 and 8 stitches in from the sides.

The next 10 rows are all sc with no increases. If you are petite (under 5'4") use 8 rows, and if you are tall (over 5'8") use 12 rows.

The remainder of the skirt will use decreases over the same spots we increased in order to curve over the top of your backside and curve in at your hips.

The first set of decreases alternates with rows of all sc, for 8 rows (4 total decreases). These decreases are placed at the sides one/every other row, 2 in front, 2 in back, the same number of stitches in from the sides that the increases were placed (between 5 & 8).

The second set of decreases is worked over your buttocks. Working 1 decrease/row for 4 rows (4 total increases), place the decreases the same number of stitches in from the sides as the increases were placed.

In the next row you will add your first strip of elastic. Simply set one of the rings on top of your row and crochet over it. The first elastic row is also the last of the tushie decreases. These decreases are placed above the buttocks and worked 2/row for 1 row (2 total decreases).

The next row has 2 decreases at the sides, one at the right/back and one at the left/front.

In the next row add the second strip of elastic just as before. This row also has 2 decreases -- one at the left/back and one at the right/front.

The next row is all sc. The final row is a simple finishing I call crocheted ric-rac. And there ya go.

Pattern by Row:

Sizes correspond as follows - 2/4 (6/8, 10/12, 14/16). PLEASE NOTE -- Row numbers correspond with the smallest size. If you are making a skirt longer than 13" or over size 2/4, your row numbers will be different.

db-ch of 96 (104,112,120), join to form a ring.

Row 1 (right side) -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 96 (104, 112, 120) stitches, join, turn.

Rows 2 to 16 -- repeat Row 1

Add 4 rows for each inch over 13" you would like for your completed measurement.

Row 17 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 15 (17, 19, 21) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 80 (86, 92, 98) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 18 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 64 (70, 76, 82) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 19 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 15 (17, 19, 21) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 82 (88, 94, 100) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 20 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 64 (70, 76, 82) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 34 (36, 38, 40) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 21 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 100 (108, 116, 124) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 22 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 57 (62, 67, 72) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 42 (45, 48, 51) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 23 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 101 (109, 117, 125) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 24 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 96 (103, 110, 117) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 25 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 102 (110, 118, 126) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 26 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 48 (51, 54, 57) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 53 (58, 63, 68) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 27 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 103 (111, 119, 127) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 28 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 97 (104, 111, 118) stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 29 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 104 (112, 120, 128) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

For size 2/4:

Rows 30 to 38 -- repeat Row 29.

For size 6/8:

Rows 30 to 40 -- repeat Row 29.

For size 10/12:

Rows 30 to 42 -- repeat Row 29.

For size 14/16:

Rows 30 to 42 -- repeat Row 29.

Row 39 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, sc-reduce (2sc-cluster), 1 sc into each of the next 97 (104, 111, 118) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 40 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 103 (111, 119, 127) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 41 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 58 (63, 68, 73) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 43 (46, 49, 52) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 42 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 102 (110, 118, 126) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 43 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 95 (102, 109, 116) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 44 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 101 (109, 117, 125) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 45 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 46 (49, 52, 55) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 53 (58, 63, 68) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 46 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 100 (108, 116, 124) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 47 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 17 (19, 21, 23) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 81 (87, 93, 99) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 48 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 65 (71, 77, 83) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 49 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 80 (86, 92, 98) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 50 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 64 (70, 76, 82) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 51 -- add elastic this row, simply set one of the sewn rings on top of your row and crochet over it, ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 15 (16, 17, 18) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 65 (70, 75, 80) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 52 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 44 (48, 52, 56) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 41 (44, 47, 50) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 53 -- add elastic this row, simply set one of the sewn rings on top of your row and crochet over it, ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 44 (48, 52, 56) stitches, sc-reduce, 1 sc into each of the next 39 (42, 45, 48) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 54 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 90 (98, 106, 114) stitches, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Row 55 -- ch 1, sl st into same stitch as joining, {ch 1, sl st into next stitch} x 89 (97, 105, 113), join with sl st in first ch 1 of row. Fasten off. Weave ends in.

Star-Crossed Capelet

Joyful Abode — Thu, 22 Dec 2005 20:33:26 GMT

Author

Emily Nelson

Introduction

This is an elegant (and warm) version of one of the latest trends. Wear it low on your shoulders with something strappy, or drawn slightly higher and paired with a sleek turtleneck. If you’re daring, try it as a drawstring miniskirt matched with bold tights and boots.

Materials List

2 skeins (140g each) of Bernat Soft Bouclé Yarn (I used the “Tropical Spray” colour)
G/6 hook (4.25mm)
3 yards of a satin ribbon in a coordinating colour (1/2 inch wide)

Finished Size

Pattern is for size M (S, L)

Gauge

12dc and 8 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)

Notes

US pattern notations used
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post treble crochet
bpdc = back post treble crochet

In this pattern, the cross stitch (which appears as a row of Xs) is made using this technique: fptc around second st from hook, fptc in the skipped st.

Ch 3 at the beginning of a round will count as the first dc.

The Pattern

Begin

Starting: Ch 142 (122, 162). Sl st to join.

Row 1: Ch 3. 1dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Rows 2-3: Ch 3. Alternate fpdc & bpdc around. Sl st to join.

Rows 4-11: Ch 3. 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Row 12: Ch 3. Cross stitch around (see note, above). Sl st to join.

Rows 13-19: Ch 3. 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Row 20: Ch 3. Cross stitch around. Sl st to join.

Rows 21-23: Ch 3. 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Row 24: Ch 3. Cross stitch around. Sl st to join.

Rows 25-26: Ch 3. 1 dc in each row around. Sl st to join. Finish off, weave in end.

Finishing: Weave your ribbon of choice through the third row, between fpdcs and bpdcs. Leave the ribbon long or cut to the desired length.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Ballet Sweater

Robyn@6 — Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:40:13 GMT

Author

by Robyn Chachula

Introduction

Do you drool over the awesome sweater patterns for knitting? I do! So instead, of just sitting around getting frustrated that I couldn’t find patterns for crochet, I decided to come up with one of my own. My favorite sweaters are the ballet wraps, for the simple reason that no matter how much you eat you always look good in them. This sweater can be dressed up with ribbon ties or button closures, the choice is yours. I challenge all of you to come up with your favorite crochet fashions, so that we, too, can have mouth-watering patterns.

Materials List

8(9,10,12,14) balls of Patons Kroy Socks, Norfolk Blue #54110
1-inch wide ribbon, 3 yarns or 3 buttons of your choice
3.25mm (US D) hook
Yarn needle

Finished Size

XS (S, M, L, XL) Actual bust measurements: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40, 42.5)" To fit bust measurments: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"

Gauge

One full block, see diagram or pattern stitch = 1.25â€ x 1.25â€

Notes

This pattern was initially designed in diagram form, so please consult diagrams in case of a written error. There is a PDF of each diagram for sizes exTRa small, small, medium, large, and exTRa large.
Before jumping into crocheting, I really urge you to create a quick mock-up of the size you want. Ballet sweaters are known for fitting differently than normal sweaters. Please see the feature from last issue on how to create a quick mock-up.
Kroy sock yarn is very cool yarn. You can wash it in the washing machine and it doesn’t shrink! I recommend washing and air-drying each piece before you sew them together. It really makes the piece a lot softer.
The turning chains in this pattern have an additional chain to help loosen up the shells. If you find your shells are too loose you can simply decrease the turning chains by 1.

Pattern Stitch:

See stitch diagram (PDF).

CH 12.

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. CH 6 (counts as a TReble and chain 1), turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in last CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into beginning SC. CH 7 (counts as a TReble and chain 2), turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC, skip CH-3, CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space, CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. Finish off.

The Pattern

Back

See Back Diagrams: x-small (small, medium, large, x-large) (PDF).

CH 132 (142, 152, 162, 172).

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH {shell made}**. Repeat from ** 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times. 13 (14, 15, 16, 17) shells made. CH 6, turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3**. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

Rows 6-13 : Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 14: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 16- 23: Repeat Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 24: Repeat Row 2.

Row 25: TR (2 CH, TR) twice into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH 2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) three times into CH-6 space. CH 6, turn.

Row 26: SC into then second TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, skip next TR, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR , DC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 7, turn.

Row 27: (TR, 2ch, TR) into DC, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. CH 1, turn.

Rows 28-29: Repeat Rows 4-5.

Rows 30-37: Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 38: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. Fasten off, turn.

Row 39: Rejoin with sl to first CH-2 space, CH 7, (TR, 2ch, TR) into same CH 2 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across to second ending CH 1. TR (CH 2, TR) twice into last CH-2 space. Ch1, turn.

Rows 40-41: Repeat Rows 4-5.

Rows 42-57: Repeat Rows 2-5 three times (X-small), four times (Small and Medium), or five times (Large and X-large).

X-small (Medium, X-Large) sizes ONLY:

Rows 58-60: Repeat Rows 2-4.

Row 61: SC in SC, **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3, 4) times (3 [4, 5] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 62: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. CH 1, TR in SC. Fasten off.

Row 63: Rejoin with SC to top of 3rd (4th, 5th) shell from end of Row 60. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3, 4) times (3 [4, 5] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 64: Repeat Row 62.

Small (Large) sizes ONLY:

Row 58: Repeat Row 2.

Row 59: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** 2 (3) times (3½ [ 4½] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 60: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR. Fasten off.

Row 61: Rejoin with SC to top of 3rd (4th) shell from end of Row 60. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3) times (3 [4] shells made). CH 1, TR (2 CH, TR) twice. CH 1, turn.

Row 62: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, CH 1, TR into SC. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Front Panels (make 2)

See Front Diagrams: x-small (small, medium, large, x-large) (PDF).

CH 102 (112, 122, 132, 142).

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) times (10 [11, 12, 13, 14] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

Rows 6-13 : Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 14: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Row 16: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 17: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 2 times in CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 18: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR into SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 19: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH 3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across. CH 6, turn.

Row 20: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third CH of turning CH. CH 1, turn.

Row 21: Repeat Row 17.

Row 22: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 23: Repeat row 5.

Row 24: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 25: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to last shell, CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 3 times. CH 6, turn.

Row 26: SC into the second TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 27: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH 3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH of turning chain. CH 1, turn.

Row 28-29: Repeat rows 4 and 5.

Row 30: Repeat row 24.

Row 31: Repeat row 17.

Row 32: Repeat row 22.

Row 33: Repeat row 5.

Row 34-37: Repeat rows 2-5. Fasten off, turn.

Row 38: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR, **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 39: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 2 times in last CH-2 space. CH 1, turn.

Rows 40-41: Repeat rows 4 and 5.

Rows 42-45: Repeat rows 2-5.

Row 46: Repeat row 24.

Row 47: Repeat row 17.

Row 48: Repeat row 22.

Row 49: Repeat row 5.

Rows 50-53: Repeat rows 2-5.

Row 54: Repeat row 24.

Row 55: Repeat row 17.

Row 56: Repeat row 22.

Row 57: Repeat row 5.

(X-small only) Row 58: Repeat row 24. Fasten off.

(All other sizes) Rows 58-59: Repeat row 2 and 3.

(Small only) Row 60: Repeat row 4. Fasten off.

(Medium, Large, X-large) Rows 60-61: Repeat rows 4- 5.

(Medium only) Row 62: Repeat row 24. Fasten off.

(Large and X-large): Row 62: Repeat row 24.

Row 63: Repeat row 17.

(Large only) Row 64: Repeat row 22. Fasten off.

(X-large) Row 64: Repeat row 22.

Row 65: Repeat row 5.

Row 66: Repeat row 24. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Sleeve (make 2)

Note: The sleeves are crocheted from cuff up to arm hole, so the pattern is written for the largest size first. See diagrams: x-large (large, medium, small, x-small) (PDF)

(X-Large only): CH 89.

(X-Large only) Row 1: TR (CH 2, TR) 2 times in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 6 times, CH 1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times in next CH. 7 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 6, turn.

(X-Large only) Row 2: SC in 2nd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last partial shell; CH 3, DC in 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 7, turn.

(X-Large Only) Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into DC, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

(Large Only): CH 89.

(Large Only): Starting Row: TR (CH 2, TR) in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 6 times. Ch1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 2 times in next CH. 7 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 1, turn.

(X-large and large): Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

(X-large and large): Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

(Medium only): CH 82.

(Medium only) Starting Row: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 7 times (8 shells made). CH 6, turn.

(XL, L, M): Row 6: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next DC, DC in next CH-6 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

(XL, L, M) Row 7: Work (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip 3 CH, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

(XL, L, M) Rows 8-9: Repeat rows 4-5.

(Small Only) CH 72.

(Small Only) Starting Row: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from **6 times (7 shells made). CH 6, turn.

(XL, L, M, S): Row 10: Repeat row 6.

(XL, L, M, S): Row 11: TR, (2 CH, TR) 2 times into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip 3 CH, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times into CH-6 t-CH. CH 6, turn.

(X-small Only) CH 69.

(X-small Only) Starting row: TR, (CH 2, TR) 2 times in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 4 times. CH 1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times in next CH. 5 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 6, turn.

(All sizes): Rows 12-16: Repeat rows 2-6.

Row 17: Repeat row 11.

Rows 18-23: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 24-26: Repeat rows 4-6.

Row 27: Repeat row 11.

Rows 28-32: Repeat rows 2-6.

Row 33: Repeat row 11.

Rows 34-39: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 40-42: Repeat rows 4-6.

Rows 43: Repeat row 11.

Rows 44-49: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 50-53: Repeat rows 4-7.

Rows 54-55: Repeat rows 4-5. Fasten off, turn.

Row 56: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 57-58: Repeat rows 5-6. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Finishing

Wash each panel and let air dry.

Whip stitch front and back panels together. Leave arm hole open and leave one inch opening on left side of body near waist for ribbon. See photo (right).
Whip stitch sleeves to body and then whip stitch sleeves closed.
Attach ribbon to the right and left front panel edge near waist. See photo for guidance.
If you prefer buttons, line up right panel over left and sew buttons to left side. Openings in the shells will be the button holes for the buttons.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Swirl

KristinOmdahl — Fri, 02 Dec 2005 14:33:17 GMT

Author

by Kristin Omdahl, for www.styledbykristin.com

Introduction

Here is your chance to learn a freeform spiral technique and wear it to prove it! This sweater wrap is crocheted with only a few simple stitches, easy to count increases, and requires no sewing! The spiral technique might take a few tries, but once you get it, there is no stopping you. I was so pleased with my accomplishment that I had to show it off as the focal point of a big, soft, alpaca sweater wrap.

Materials List

Henry’s Attic Peruvian Tweed (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein each in Cream/Beige Tweed #117 (Color A), Gray/Black Tweed #109 (Color B), Taupe/Black Tweed #111 (Color C)
Henry’s Attic Prime Alpaca (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein in Silver Gray (Color D)
Yarn Kit available here!
5.0mm (US size H/8) for size small/medium
6.5mm (US size K/10.5) for size large/xlarge
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge

With smaller hook: 7 sts and 4 rows in dc = 2”

With larger hook: 6 sts and 3 rows in dc = 2”

Notes

The entire garment is worked with the smaller size hook to obtain size small/medium, or the entire garment is worked with the larger size hook to obtain size large/xlarge.

Vary the position of the increases from round to round, so they don’t line up over each other. This will ensure evenly rounded edges in the completed garment.

The Pattern

Body

Round 1: With color A, make a magic ring, chain 1 and work (sc, hdc, dc) in loop, drop color A, placing open stitch on a stitch marker or safety pin, *join color B, chain 1 and work (sc, hdc, dc) in 1st loop, drop color B*. Repeat from * to * with color C and with color D. Tighten original loop, that all stitches of round 1 were worked in. Now there is a “circle” with 4 sections of different colors (3 sts of each color – 12 sts total). Note: Place marker to denote beginning of round. Rounds will begin and end with different colors from now on.

Round 2: with color D, dc twice in each of next 3 sts, *drop color D and pick up existing loop of color A; work dc twice in each of next 3 sts*. Repeat from * to * with remaining colors for round. (24 sts)

Round 3: with color C, *(dc twice in one st, dc in next st) three times*. Repeat from * to * with colors D, A & B. (36 sts)

Round 4: with color B, *(dc twice in one st, dc in each of next 2 sts) three times*. Repeat from * to * with colors C, D, A (48 sts).

Round 5: with color A, *(dc twice in one st, dc in each of next 3 sts) three times*. Repeat from * to * with colors B, C, D (60 sts).

Note: You will be increasing 12 sts per round in pattern that was established in round 2 (3 increases per color section per round).

Round 6 – 13: Continue in established pattern until you have 39 sts in each color section, or 156 sts total.

From now on, each color will be worked in rows that form “pie wedges” that will be sewn together at the end.

First pie wedge (with color A)

Row 1: Dc across next 39 dc, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn (42 sts).

Row 2 – 18: repeat row 1 (93 sts)

Next pie wedge (with color B)

Row 1: Skip 22 sts and dc in next 17 sts, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn (20 sts).

Row 2: Dc in 20 sts, increasing by 3 stitches evenly placed across row. Ch 24. (23 sts)

Row 3: Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in each ch sp and in each stitch across, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn. (48 sts)

Row 4: Dc in each st across, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn. (51 sts)

Row 5 – 18: repeat row 4 (93 sts)

Next pie wedge (with color D)

Row 1: Dc across next 39 dc, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row (42 sts). Ch 3, turn.

Row 2 – 18: repeat row 1 (93 sts)

Next pie wedge (with color C)

Row 1: Dc in next 17 sts, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 24. (20 sts).

Row 2: Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in each ch sp and each stitch across, increasing by 3 stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn. (45 sts)

Row 3: Dc in each stitch across, placing 3 extra stitches evenly spaced across row. Ch 3, turn. (48 sts)

Row 4 – 18: repeat row 3 (93 sts)

Sew edges of wedges together to form outer ring of circle. The holes that remain will serve as sleeve openings in the next section of the directions.

Sleeves (make 2)

Hdc around entire sleeve opening, join with sl st.

Row 1: Ch 58, turn, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch across (56 hdc), sl st into next 2 sts from sleeve opening, turn.

Row 2: Hdc in each st across (56 hdc). Ch2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc in each st across (56 hdc). Sl st into next 2 sts from sleeve opening, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have placed a slip stitch in each stitch of sleeve opening. Holding right sides together, sc through thickness of ch edge of sleeve and last row worked of sleeve, to sew sleeve seam. Fasten off and weave in tails.

With color D, join with slip stitch anywhere around perimeter of wrap. *Ch5, slip stitch into 4th chain from hook, skip 1 st, sc in next sc.* Repeat from * to * around the entire perimeter. Join with slip stitch to 1st ch. Fasten off. Repeat this edging for each sleeve cuff, too.

Sew buttons to front, attach a toggle to front or cinch a belt around the wrap for closure. Or just let the wrap fall naturally.