Free Crochet Me Patterns : Wool, Animal Fiber

Basic Unisex Gloves

Cassi Bear — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 21:17:18 GMT

Introduction

After weeks, and I mean that literally, of searching for patterns for mens gloves, but only finding womens, I put my little twisted mind to it and came up with this.

As a disclaimer.......I am not a master crocheter, on a good day I'd call my self solid intermediate, but aggrivation became the mother of creativity for this.

If you are looking for something with changes noted, I don't have them....this is the prototype. I made this off of my hand, and just worked till it looked about (key word there) right. I will gladly accept any and all (another key word here) Constructive criticisim.

Please feel free to tweak, and play with the base line pattern to make it what you want, and most importantly, ENJOY!

Materials List

1 size G hook

1 size F hook

2 skiens 4-medium weight yarn ( I used 2 skiens of Lion Brand Wool-Ease, wool/acrylic blend)

Finished Size

I have large palms, short & fat fingers, and usually wear men's medium to large gloves, and a size 9.5 on my ring fingers.

Gauge

No clue! I just had fun.

Notes

Sctog 2 means single crochet together two stitches

slip together means slip stitch to the top of the chain 1 spot to close a round or connect.

The Pattern

Should be self explanitory.......

Crystal Lace Bolero

Robyn@6 — Wed, 21 Jun 2006 23:18:56 GMT

Author

by Robyn Chachula

Introduction

For me, inspiration comes from literally everything I touch. This bolero is all emotions. See, my best friend recently moved to Phoenix and since I live in the east coast, I definitely had mixed emotions. On one hand I was jumping for joy, because it was their dream move, and really, a perfect city for them. But on the other hand, what on earth can you crochet for your biggest supporter when she moves to the hottest city in the US? So Crystal’s lace was born. It all started with the notion of hot weather crocheting. You want something that is small and very portable… Hmm, obviously it must be a granny square. Now for fiber, yes cotton is great, but where’s the elastic in it? And Phoenix does have cool nights… Ah, a light wool/nylon blend. And presto!, the bolero was born. So watch out, you never know when your emotions are going to challenge you to crochet!

Ed. note: Robyn has written a blog post to address common questions about the bolero.

Materials List

Softwist by Berroco, #9467 Amethyst, (41% wool, 59% nylon), 100 yds (91m): 5 (7, 9) hanks
5.50mm (US size I/9) hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Yarn for this project was generously supplied (and wound beautifully) by Dream Weaver Yarns.

Finished Size

Small, (Medium, Large)

To fit bust sizes 28”-32”, (33”-36”, 38”-44”) and upper arm circumference 9” (12”, 15”).

Gauge

4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) = 1 granny square

Special Stitches:

Cluster (CL): Yo, *insert hook into ring, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,* repeat from * to * twice more, yo, draw through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes

Please watch size as you join granny squares. Softwist is very elastic and will stretch, so if you plan on using a different yarn, check fit often. Fit is intended to be relaxed.
Keep in mind that you can easily alter the garment by changing the layout of the granny squares. For example, if you would prefer cap sleeves, leave off the grannies at the arm. Or if you want a shrug; leave off the grannies at the front panels. The options are yours, enjoy exploring.
Written instructions are provided along with diagrams. Click diagram thumbnails to enlarge.

The Pattern

Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36)

See stitch diagram for assistance (click to enlarge).

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc in top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 6 more times, ch 2, dc in top of hdc of previous round.

Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * two more times, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into dc of previous round.

Round 4: *Ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times ending with sc into last ch sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Half Granny Square: Make 0, (2, 0).

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ch 2, dc into next ch-3 sp, turn.

Round 3: Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch-5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn.

Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

3/4 Granny Square: Make 4, (2, 4)

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2.

Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog.

Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 5 more times, ch 2, dc into ch-3 sp, turn.

Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp*, repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn.

Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* repeat from * to * 1 more time. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Joining

Use Small Layout, Medium Layout, Large Layout, and Legend for placement of grannies. Join all grannies as shown in the layout, then join arm and side seams in the same manner.

Joining four grannies (see diagram): Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog in ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into ring, ch 3, CL in ring,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch1, sc in ch-5 sp of corner of granny, ch 1, CL in ring, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog, (center made) dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny (see picture), *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining between centers (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-3 sp of next center, ch 3, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining Continues (see diagram): ch 6, sl st into first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog into ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp of next joining, ch 1, CL into circle,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog (center made), dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, **ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,** repeat from ** to ** 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Joining at Cuff Edge (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the first granny, ch 2, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the second granny, ch 3, sl st into previous ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Edging at Neck and Front Panel (see diagram): Join yarn to ch-3 sp of center, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of granny, {if at neck edge, [ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp] twice, ch 3, sc into next ch-3 sp of center}. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Arm Cuff

Join yarn to underarm with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 6, turn.

Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, work 2 sl st into ch sp of granny (first sl st joins row to bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn.

Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around arm cuff. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp and every SC. Whip stitch cuff together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Collar

Join yarn to back with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 13, turn.

Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, sl st into ch sp of granny twice (first sl st joins row to bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (12 sts)

Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn.

Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around collar. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp. Whip stitch collar together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Frolicking

Crochet Me Admin — Mon, 13 Mar 2006 21:35:48 GMT

Author

by Janice Stanborough

Introduction

Keep your little piggies as warm as bacon with these cute and cheery Mary-Jane slippers. They will add a bounce to your step, reminiscent of spring lambs, and the flowers will remind you of the happy spring flowers hiding under the snow. Suddenly, it just feels like spring...

Materials List

Milano Crepe double knit wool, 50g, 1 and a half balls. Yarn scraps for flowers.
4.5mm (US G) hook
Yarn needle

Finished Size

Slipper measures approximately 23cm (9 inches) along bottom from toe to heel (unstretched).

Notes

Slipper is worked from the toe to heel in circular and regular crochet.
If you want a longer or shorter slipper, adjust the pattern between the rows 14-23 or 26-51.

Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
St(s) = stitch(es)

The Pattern

Body of slipper (make 2)

Do not join rounds 1 through 23 - just work in a spiral. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round to help keep track as you go.

Round 1: Ch 2. Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc around (24 sts)

Rounds 4-8: Work sc in each sc around (24 sts)

Round 9: Work *sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in 3rd sc*, repeat around (32 sts)

Rounds 10-12: Work sc in each sc around (32 sts)

Round 13: Work *sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in 4th sc*, repeat around (40 sts)

Rounds 14-23: Work sc in each sc around (40 sts)

Row 24: Sl st in next sc. Ch 1, turn

Row 25: Work sc in each of next 30 sts, leaving 10 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn (30 sts)

Row 26-51: Work sc in each st. Ch 1, turn (30 sts)

Row 52: Work sc in each of first 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * 3 more times. Sc in each of next 5 sts. Ch 1, turn (35 sts)

Row 53-57: Work sc in each st. Ch 1, turn (35 sts)

Row 58: Work sc in each of first 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * 4 more times. Sc in each of next 5 sts. Ch 1, turn (41 sts)

Row 59: Work sc in each st. Ch 1, turn (41 sts)

For rows 60-64 refer to the diagram, at right.

Row 60: Section A = sc in first 12 sts., Section B = *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, repeat from * 4 more times. Dec over next two sts. Section A = sc in last 12 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 61: Section A = sc in first 10 sts., Section B = *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, repeat from * 4 more times. Section A = sc in last 10 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 62: Section A = sc in first 8 sts., Section B = *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, repeat from * 3 more times. Dec over next two sts. Section A = sc in last 8 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 63: Section A = sc in first 6 sts., Section B = *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, repeat from * 3 more times. Section A = sc in last 6 7 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 64: Section A = sc in first 4 sts. Section B = *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, repeat from * 3 more times. Section A = sc in last 5 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Sl st to join the last stitch to the first st. Don’t fasten off.

Slipper opening and strap

Mark where you would like the strap.

To make the slipper tight, and to make the strap, you will have to sc around the opening at least once (I went around twice), decreasing every few sts to make it tight (I decreased 1 st every 3 sts). When you get to where you want the strap to be, stop and ch approximately 20. Sc in each ch and keep working your way around the slipper opening, decreasing every few sts. You can do this as many times as you like to make it tighter, but each time you go around, the opening will get smaller and the strap will get thicker. To finish off, sl st at the back of the heel and fasten off. You might want to sew shut the heel opening.

Alternative (easier) instructions

After Row 59, continue to sc until the slipper covers your heel. Fasten off, then sew up back seam.

Sc around slipper opening, starting from heel and decreasing every few sts to make it tight. Fasten off.

Make the strap separately and sew onto slipper.

Flowers

Note: Keep your yarn tails at least two inches long so you can tie them together.

Ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook to form a ring. *Ch 6, sl st in ring* 5 times (makes 5 petals). Fasten off.

To attach flowers to slipper, poke the yarn tails of the flower into holes in the slipper and tie them at the back. Trim ends. Sew each petal to keep it down.

Shrug Off Winter

Megan_Granholm — Mon, 13 Mar 2006 20:54:18 GMT

Author

by Megan Granholm

Introduction

Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

Materials List

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
3.5mm/Size E hook
2 small buttons
yarn needle

Finished Size

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos)

Gauge

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Notes

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

The Pattern

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook (counts as dc + 2 chains). *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked (4 loops on hook). Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. 34 (35, 36, 37) clusters. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the 3rd ch of the tch. Ch 3, turn

Row 3-17. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the top of the tch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Work clusters across, ending with last dc of cluster in the top of the tch. Ch 1, turn.

Row 19. Sc in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Work clusters across through the second to last cluster. Do not work the last cluster to end the row. Decrease made at beginning and end of row: 32 (33, 34, 35) clusters. Ch 1, turn. (Note: you will leave the tch or ch-3 sp from the beg of the previous row unworked.)

Row 20-29. Repeat row 19. Fasten off at the end of row 29.

Back

Ch 102 (108, 117, 120).

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked (4 loops on hook). Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. 32 (34, 37, 38) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2. Sl st to first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Work clusters across through the second to last cluster. Do not work last cluster to end row. Decrease made at beginning and end of row: 30 (32, 35, 36) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3-11. Repeat row 2. Fasten off at end of row 11: total off 12 (14, 17, 18) clusters.

Front

Right Side

Ch 18.

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook). Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. (4 clusters.) Ch 6, turn.

Row 2. Dc in 6th ch from hook. Make 4 clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 3 clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in 3rd ch of tch. Make 1 inc cluster. Ch 24, turn.

Row 4. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop off each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * five times. Make 3 clusters across row (9 clusters). Ch 1, turn.

Row 5. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 7 clusters, and 6 (7, 8, 8) inc clusters. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Make 12 (13, 14, 14) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 11 (12, 13, 13) clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in top of tch. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 8 (9, 10, 10) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 5 (6, 7, 7) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 (3, 4, 4) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 1 cluster. Fasten off.

Left Side

Ch 18.

Row 1. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked.. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. (5 loops remain on hook.) Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * across to end. (4 clusters.) Ch 1, turn.

Row 2. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 clusters, and 2 inc clusters. Ch 6, turn.

Row 3. Dc in 6th ch from hook. Make 4 clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 clusters and 7 inc clusters. Ch 15 (18, 21, 21), turn.

Row 5. Dc in 6th ch from hook. *Ch 3. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 dc around the post of previous dc worked. Sk 2 ch. Leaving last loop of stitch on hook, dc in next ch. Yo and pull through all five loops. Repeat from * two times. Make 10 clusters across row: 13 (14, 15, 15) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 12 (13, 14, 14) clusters, ending with last dc of cluster in the 3rd ch of tch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7. Dc in first ch-3 sp. Make 11 (12, 13, 13) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 8 (9, 10, 10) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, sl st in second ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 5 (6, 7, 7) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 2 (3, 4, 4) clusters. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11. Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp. Make 1 cluster. Fasten off.

Sew back and front pieces to sleeves.

Finishing

Attach yarn with sl st to the back piece, underneath the right sleeve. Ch 2, hdc in the next stitch and in each stitch across the bottom of the back. Continue across the bottom left front. Work 2 hdc in the corner st. Continue to work in hdc up the side of the front piece. At the top seam where the sleeve joins to the front, work 2 dc. Work in tr across the top of the arm. Make a 4-tr decrease at the top seam where the sleeve joins to the back. Tr in each stitch across the back. Make a 4-tr decrease at the top seam where the right sleeve joins to the back. Tr across the top of the arm to within 2 st of the sleeve seam. Work 2 dc where the sleeve joins the front. Continue to work in hdc around front. Work 2 hdc in the corner st. Hdc in each remaining st and sl st to join to first hdc. Fasten off.

Attach yarn with sl st to the cuff of the sleeve at the seam. Ch 4, tr in each st around. Sl st to top of ch-4 to join. Fasten off. Repeat with other sleeve.

Starting at the bottom inside corner of the right front piece, join with a sl st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. Ch 5, sk 1 st, sc in each of next 3 sts, ch 5, sk 1 st, sc to corner. 2 sc in corner st, then work hdc in next st, dc in next st, then tr across arms and back, decreasing over 4 sts at the top where the sleeve joins the back, until 3 sts remain at top of left front corner (above buttons). Work dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Fasten off.

Sew two covered buttons to the inside edge of the left front piece. (See covered button tutorial for instructions.)

Schematic

Pike Place Market Bag

SkaMama — Fri, 03 Feb 2006 02:17:33 GMT

Author

by Julie Holetz

Introduction

This bag was designed with two people in mind. My sister, who is about to add two boys to the family, and my mother, the eternal farmers market shopper. I loved the idea of the side pocket for a small water bottle or baby bottle. The wide body is a necessity for crusty French baguettes, flowers, market veggies, and diapers.

Materials List

900 yds pure wool for the body and sides, 220 yds for the assembly and straps, and some scrap wool for the contrast stitching if desired. (Anne Frost's bag, pictured in gray, used Reynolds Lite Lopi - 6 skeins for the body, 3 skeins contrast color for the sides and straps, and 1 skein of another contrast color for stitching)

Red/orange sample used:

Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure Virgin Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/223 yds worsted weight) MC: 4 skeins Paprika
Cascade 220 (100% Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/220 yds worsted weight): CC 1 skein 9404 red
1-2 ozs wool in shades of theme color for stitching
size I (5.5mm) hook
optional size J (6mm) hook for foundation chain on strap, see note
Thick yarn needle for weaving ends, attaching straps, and embellishments.

Finished Size

Before felting = 24”w x 15”l

After felting = 16”w x 11”l

Gauge

5”x5” = 15 sts x 12 rows

Notes

After making the bag I realized my sister would need two pockets for the twins' bottles. You should have enough yarn to make both sides with pockets. To be sure, simply make up the sides first, following pocket side directions, then make up the body of the bag.
When making up the straps, it’s a good idea to use a “J” hook to make the foundation chain then switch to the smaller hook for the remaining rows. During the felting process, the foundation chain will typically end up tighter than the last row.
Finally, the pattern was designed with the sides of the bag 1” below the top of the main body. If you want the sides to be even with the top, simply make the sides 15” and 24” and attach them level to the top of the bag. Felting is more art than science, so some degree of variance in measurements can be expected.

The Pattern

Begin Side 1

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 14”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Side 2 – pocket

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 23”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Body

With MC, chain 73

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 72 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 35”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fold top 1” of bag down and tack in place along bottom edge. This will give added strength to the bag.

To assemble bag

Fold Side 2 to form pocket. Once folded this side should be the same size as the other side, about 14”. With WS facing each other, pin side 2 to bag beginning 1” below top. With contrast color, and beginning at the top of the bag, work a row of sc to attach side, working through all layers. Work one row of sl st back around. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Pin and attach other side in the same manner. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps – Make 2

With cc, ch 126

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2-4 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 125 hdc

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

To felt

Throw bag and straps into a zippered pillowcase, with a pair of jeans or old shoes, and about ¼ cup of baking soda OR some dish detergent. Wash on hot/cold setting. Do not let the wash go to spin cycle, which could cause the bag to stretch out of shape. Check bag and straps after each cycle. If neede, reshape strap, by pulling, to keep it from curling and felting into itself. Swipe your hand through the pocket to make sure there is no felting to the body of the bag. Continue cycles until bag measures 16”w x 11” l. Sample took 2 cycles. Remove from wash and roll in a towel to remove excess water. Bag may look distorted. Gently, but firmly, reshape bag and straps. If needed, bag may be placed in the dryer for a little bit. Place bag out to dry. Insert a form to help bag keep its shape. I used a plastic drawer from my craft cart.

Straps

After bag is dry, attach handles using running stitch. Place each strap 4” from the top of the bag and 4” in from the side. For extra security, tack down the inside of the handles where they join to the top of the bag.

You can use any embellishment you wish. I intended to make this flower by cutting my felted swatches, in various colors, to the template and sewing them together. Instead, I found a cheap vinyl remnant at my local fabric store. I cut the vinyl to the template and sewed them into place using a thick yarn needle and a little force.

To make flower in the sample, you just need some fabric remnant or felted swatches and some scrap yarn.

Crocheted button center

Round 1: Ch 2. Place 10 sc in 1 st ch and join to beginning of round with sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around and join with sl st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Rev sc around and join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trace and cut flower templates (click thumbnail at right for full-size image). Layer flower with crocheted, or ready made, button on top. Sew through all layers with thick yarn needle and attach to bag like a button.

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Felted Rose Trio

Crochet Me Admin — Thu, 02 Feb 2006 04:41:46 GMT

Author

by Linda Stoll of Oslofia Stitching Away

Introduction

After a nice, relaxing summer and autumn, we are now heading towards winter. But winter garments and accessories do not need to come in boring and dull dark colours.

So with that in mind, I came up with the design for the Rose set, which includes a handbag, a headband and a matching rose to pin on your jacket. It all comes down to the accessories, right?

And since I’m also such a pink person, I couldn’t think of a better colour than pink for the set. This way you will certainly be seen.

The items in the Rose set are all felted, which makes the headband nice and warm, and it also gives the handbag sturdiness so it does not need to be lined.

The set is crocheted with bulky weight wool, so the items are fast projects to make.

Materials List

Cortina - Bulky weight wool (50g/55m or 1.8 oz/55yds): 4 skeins (3 skeins for the handbag & 1 skein for the headband)
Size 7.0mm (K) hook
Yarn needle

Finished Size

Before felting:

Handbag: 31.5 x 28 cm (12.4 x 11 in)

Headband: 10 x 50 cm ( 4 x 1.7 in) without tassels; tassel 32 cm (12.6 in).

After felting:

Handbag: 24.5 x 26 cm (9.6 x 10.2 in)

Headband: 8 x 47 cm (3.1 x 18.5 in); tassels 24 cm (9.5 ins)

Rose: 8 cm across (3.1 in)

Gauge

Before felting: 10 dc x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

After felting: 13 dc x 6.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

Notes

The yarn needs to be 100% wool in order for the felting process to succeed.
The items can be stretched and formed into correct shaping and sizes when wet.

The Pattern

Rose (make 5 alike)

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to create ring.

Round 1: *Ch 3, 1 sc.* Rep *-* 5 times –- 6 bows.

Round 2: Work in each bow: *1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc*. Join to frst sc with a sl st. Cut thread, weave in ends. Attach to a pin, to be worn on a jacket.

Handbag

Front

Ch 32.

Row 1: Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across – 30 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3 - 12: Rep row 2.

Row 13: Work dc in each of first 2 sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog.* Rep *-* across, ending row with dc in each of last 2 sts –- 23 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 14-16: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Make opening for hand. Work dc in each of first 6 sts, ch 11 loosely, skip 11 sts before working dc in last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18: Work dc in each of first 6 sts, work 11 dc in ch-11 space, work dc in each of last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 19-21: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Cut thread, weave in ends.

Back

Work same as for front.

Assemble the handbag:

Sew sides and bottom of front and back pieces together, with their right sides facing each other. Turn right side out. Crochet 3 roses to be sewn on the front side. The roses can be sewn on both before and after the felting process. However, keep in mind that the roses will shrink, so the ‘placement’ of the roses may alter after the handbag has been felted if they are sewn on beforehand. I sewed on the rose after the felting on the handbag that is displayed in the picture.

Headband

Ch 43 to make a tassel.

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook – 3 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in the last st – 5 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of last 4 sts – 10 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7-25: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Ch 2. Work dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts across, dc2tog over last 2 sts – 7 dc.

Continue to dec 2 dc on each row (one at each end of the row) until there are only 3 dc left. Work 3 dc together. Ch 40 to make another tassel. Cut thread, weave in ends.

Felting

Put all items through a hot machine wash to shrink and felt.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Half-Hearted Pouch

Crochet Me Admin — Sun, 29 Jan 2006 01:48:56 GMT

Author

by Julie Holetz

Introduction

Being a bag-obsessed girl, I’ve always wanted to try crocheting a bag with hemp yarn. It’s not only a durable fiber but it comes in way cute colors. On a recent trip to a not-so-local yarn store I found some hemp yarn that was half hemp and half wool. It looked perfect for playing with. I tried to conceive of a brilliant design on which I could test the yarn, but I had nothing.

One day, the zipper on my wallet broke. I needed a replacement quick. With Valentine’s Day looming ahead I worked up a heart design and grabbed the hemp. You could say that for all my grand intentions the conception of this pouch was a little half-hearted.

Materials List

Hemp Yarn, (55% Hemp, 45% Wool, 200 yds/skein) 1 skein Black, 1 skein Red
Size F/3.75 mm hook
Small yarn needle
Zipper

Finished Size

5" wide x 3.5" high

Gauge

3.5 stitches and 4 rows = 1 inch

Notes

When changing colors, always change the yarn when there are still two loops of the last single crochet stitch on the hook. Finish the last yarn over with the new color.

Always pick up the new color and drop the old color on the wrong side of the fabric.

Use one turning chain at the end of each row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

The Pattern

Pattern

To begin, clip off about 18 inches of each color to be used when you work the heart in contrasting color.

With black, ch 19.

Row 1: Right side. Sc in second st from hook and each st across until there are only three sts left. Begin sc in next st and change colors where there are two loops left on the hook. With new color sc in last two sts.

Continue following chart working all sts in sc. When you get to Row 11 and begin to work the main color on the inside of the heart, simply use the length of yarn you set aside. You can drop this yarn as you work across the heart pattern again and pick it up on your way back.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Work the second side by reversing the color pattern and working the heart on the left side, instead of the right. For instance, you will begin by working the first two stitches of the heart at the beginning of Row 1 (instead of at the end) then work the remainder of the row in the second color.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing

With the same color as the heart, slip stitch around the edge of the heart on each side. With wrong sides together, whipstitch the sides and bottom together. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew the zipper into the opening. I used the Hemp yarn and a small yarn needle to attach the zipper to the inside of the stitches. If you like the look of contrast stitching, feel free to pass it all the way through to the outside of the pouch and back in again.

Jolly Rancher

EvenH — Sun, 29 Jan 2006 00:48:35 GMT

Author

by Even Howard

Introduction

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves. No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter. Cozy yarn to the rescue! This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down. Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape. You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look. Either way, you’ll be warm. Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

Materials List

Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.
Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.

Finished Size

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd. You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

Gauge

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

Notes

The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

The Pattern

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across. Ch 1and turn.

Row 2: Work sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2 as follows: Work a total of 72 rows for 33-inch, 80 rows for size 36-inch, and 88 rows for 39-inch. If you would like to make it larger or smaller make sure the total number of rows can be divided evenly by 8. At the same time, on every 6th and 8th row work a button hole row as follows: Sc in each of first 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. Work sc across the next row, working 2 sc in the ch-2 space.

After final row, sl st edges together to form a loop and turn right side out (sl st edge goes inside). Turn work to long edge, ch 1 and work one sc stitch per row along one side. The total number of sc must equal your number of rows for the lace pattern to work, so be sure and check!

Skirt body

Round 1: Continuing with 8mm hook, ch1 and sc1 in same space. *Ch3, sk 3 sc, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc**, 1sc in next sc*. Repeat * to *around, ending the last repeat at **. Ch3, sl st in first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as a tr). * Skip the first ch-3 space. Work (1tr, ch3) four times in the next ch-3 space. Work 1 tr in the same ch-3 space. Skip next ch-3 space** and tr into sc st*. Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 4 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1 and sc in same space. * Ch 4. Skip next ch-3 space. Sc in next ch-3 space, ch3, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4, skip next ch-3 space**, sc in tr st *. Repeat * to * across, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc). * Ch 3, skip ch-4 space. Work (1dc, ch 3, 1dc) in next ch-3 space. Ch 3. Skip ch-4 space.** Dc in next sc *. Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Repeat rounds 2-4 to continue skirt body. At the same time, on every 5th round, change hook size to 1mm larger, beginning with Round 5. (Round 5 = 9mm hook, Round 10 = 10mm hook, Round 15 = 11mm hook). Skirt as shown is 15 rounds long and ended on a round-3 pattern. Feel free to add more if you like.

Edging

Round 1: With size 11mm hook and thick yarn (A), ch 1. Working only in the chain spaces, work sc around placing 5 sc sts in each ch-4 space and 4 sc sts in each ch-3 space. Skip all sc stitches from the previous row. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Working in front loops only, sc in each of first 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc (picot made),* sc in each of next 8 sts, make picot in next st **, sc in each of next 4 sts, make picot in next st*. Repeat around, ending the last repeat at ** and two sts remaining. Sc in each of the last 2 sts and sl st into first sc to close. Tie off yarn and weave in end.

Round 3: Change to F hook and join Kid Silk Haze (B).Work 1 sc into the back loop of the sc below. Continuing in the back loops only, work * Ch 5, sc in next sc * around. Pass behind picots, skipping the chain stitches and working in the backs of each sc. Ch 5 and sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Sl st up first 3 chains to begin at the middle of the ch-5 space. Sc in ch-5 space. *In next ch-5 space, work (1tr, ch 2) 4 times. Tr once more in same space **. Sc in next ch-5 space *. Repeat around, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join. Tie off and weave in ends.

Round 5: With size 11.5mm hook, join yarn (A) to remaining back loops of round 2. Ch 4 (counts as a dc plus 1 ch). * Skip one sc and dc into next sc. Ch 1. * Repeat * to * around. Skip last stitch and sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.

Repeat Round 5 twice more. Tie off and weave in ends.

Finishing

Weave ribbon or other belt through the button holes (I used a thin knit belt from an old sweater). Finish ribbon ends by clipping them in a ‘V’ shape so they won’t fray. I didn’t block this skirt, but if you want to, go right ahead! You can wear a slip or an a-line, flared, bias cut, or pencil skirt underneath easily, but please experiment with other shapes and let me know how it goes!

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

Spike Stitch Pillow Sham

Crochet Me Admin — Wed, 04 Jan 2006 19:12:55 GMT

Author

by Josi Hannon Madera

Introduction

No introduction is needed for this stunning pillow sham. Check out Josi's Spike Stitch Introduction if you'd like more information before diving in.

Materials List

60 yards - color A, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
(Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00240 Leaf Green)
240 yards - color B, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
(Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00204 Old Gold)
45 yards - color C, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
(Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00214 Dusky Blue)
US-J hook (6.00mm)

Finished Size

Completed measurements, with edging 17" x 18.5"

Gauge

Gauge Swatch
Start with 21 ch, and work for front of pattern repeating only 3 times between { } or 20 sc per Row. Follow pattern through Row 24 without changing color.

6 stitches (1 repeats of pattern) = 2"

12 rows = 2.5"

Notes

US Pattern notations used throughout
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet

The Pattern

Front

(A) Base - Using color A, ch of 51

(A) Row 1 (right side) - 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each of the remaining 49 sc (50 sc total), turn.

(A) Row 2 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(A) Rows 3 to 6 - repeat Row 2, changing to color B at end of Row 6.

(B) Row 7 - ch 1, sc into first stitch, {sc into next stitch, SP-2 over next stitch, SP-3 over next stitch, SP-4 over next stitch, SP-5 over next stitch, SP-6 over next stitch} x 8, sc into last stitch, turn.

(B) Row 8 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(B) Rows 9 to 12 - repeat Row 8, changing to color A at end of Row 6.

(A) Row 13 - ch 1, sc into first stitch, {SP-6 over next stitch, SP-5 over next stitch, SP-4 over next stitch, SP-3 over next stitch, SP-2 over next stitch, sc into next stitch} x 8, sc into last stitch, turn.

(A) Row 14 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(A) Rows 15 to 18 - repeat Row 14, changing to color C at end of Row 18.

(B) Rows 25 to 30 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color B, changing to color C at end of Row 30.

(A) Row 37 to 42 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color A, changing to color B at end of Row 42.

(B) Rows 43 to 48 - repeat Rows 7 to 12 using color B, changing to color A at end of Row 48.

(A) Rows 49 to 54 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color A, changing to color C at end of Row 54.

(B) Rows 61 to 66 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color B, changing to color C at end of Row 66.

(A) Rows 73 to 78 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color A, changing to color B at end of Row 78.

(B) Rows 79 to 84 - repeat Rows 7 to 12 using color B, changing to color A at end of row 84.

(A) Rows 85 to 90 - repeat Rows 13 to 18 using color A, changing to color B at end of Row 90.

(B) Row 91 - repeat Row 7.

(B) Row 92 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn. Fasten off, front completed.

Back

(B) Base - Using color B, ch of 51.

(B) Row 1 (wrong side) - 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each of the remaining 49 sc (50 sc total), turn.

(B) Row 2 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(B) Rows 3 to 100 - repeat Row 2. Fasten off, back completed.

Edging

Lay back piece flat (wrong side facing), with most recent row worked at the top edge. Turn top of piece down by 20 rows to create pillow pocket. Lay front of piece over top (right side facing), aligning bottom edge and top edge. The front of piece is slightly larger than back to accommodate an overstuffed pillow. When working stitches along sides, evenly distribute the extra length of the front along the back edge.

Join the color B in the upper left edge (as facing you).

(B) Row 1 -

Step 1: ch 1, stitching through Front, Pillow Flap & Back, work 15 sc placing them evenly along edge.

Step 2: stitching through side edges of Front and Back, work 45 sc, placing them evenly along edge to bottom left corner.

Step 3: ch 1, turn piece so bottom edge is at the top, stitching through Front and Back and working into first rows of both, work 50 sc.

Step 4: ch 1, turn piece so right edge is at the top, stitching through side edges of Front and Back, work 45 sc, placing them evenly along edge to beginning of Pillow Flap.

Step 5: stitching through Front, Pillow Flap & Back, work 15 sc placing them evenly along edge.

Step 6: WORKING ONLY THROUGH FRONT, ch 1, 50 sc along top edge of pillow, join to first sc of Row 1.

(B) Row 2 - ch 1, 1 sc into each stitch, except work (sc, ch 1, sc) into each ch 1 at corner of piece.

(B) Row 3 - repeat Row 2.

This completes the Spike Stitch Pillow Sham. You can add a border or tassels, or leave the edges clean. In the pic it is shown overstuffed with an 18" pillow.

Halcyon

Crochet Me Admin — Tue, 03 Jan 2006 14:46:07 GMT

Author

by Jo Anne Tracy

Introduction

[Halcyon -- A fabled bird reported to have had the power to calm the wind and the waves while it nested on the sea during the winter solstice]

The Halcyon is a soft, rounded shawl with a little short-row shaping to help it drape across the shoulders. The center panel is framed with eyelets – to be woven through with ribbon if so desired. Two versions are shown. The one made with dark rose colored wool-acrylic blend is durable and machine washable, while the white mohair shawl with a ribbon embellishment is more delicate. Using a large hook gives a nice drape to these shawls, they are both very lightweight and surprisingly warm.

I also have it on good authority that a Halcyon shawl bestows a new mother with the power to calm the wind and the waves and enhances her natural ability to comfort her young.

Materials List

White shawl: Henry’s Attic, Kid Mohair (2000 yds/ 1372 meters per 16 oz/340 g), natural, 1 16 oz cone – though you will only use about 1500 yds. Dark rose shawl: Lion Brand WoolEase (197 yds/180 m per 3 oz/85 g), Dark Rose Heather, 8 skeins.
Hook size J/6 mm
5 yds 3/4” ribbon (optional)

Notes

All sc, hdc, and xtr stitches to be made in back loop of previous row stitch.

*xtr – crossed treble crochet. Skip 2 st, tr in 3rd st, ch 1, tr in first skipped st working behind first tr.

US pattern notation used
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half-double crochet
dc - double crochet
xtr* - crossed treble crochet
sl - slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
inc - increase
sk - skip

The Pattern

Begin

Chain 12. Turn.

Row 1. 2 hdc in 3 rd chain from end, 1 hdc in each of next 8 ch, 3 hdc in last ch. Turn. (14 st including ch 2)

Row 2. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in next st, ch 2, hdc in next 10 hdc (do not skip any st), ch 2, hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (22 st)

Row 3. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in next 3 st, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 10 hdc, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in next 3 st, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (28 st)

Row 4. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 10 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (34 st)

Rows 5 – 8. Repeat Row 4. (58 st at the end of row 8)

Row 9. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, 2 hdc in next hdc (1st center panel inc), hdc in next 8 st, 2 hdc in next hdc (2nd center panel inc) ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (66 st)

Rows 10 – 12. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (84 st at the end of row 12)

Row 13. (short row) Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in next 19 hdc. Turn. (73 st)

Row 14. (short row) Ch 1, sk 1 st hdc, hdc in 2nd hdc. Hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in next 22 hdc. Turn (60 st)

Row 15. Ch 1, sk 1 st hdc, hdc in 2nd hdc. Hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc (count turning ch from previous row as one hdc and make another hdc in same st as hdc two rows below). 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (79 st)

Row 16. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc (count turning ch from previous row as one hdc and make another hdc in same st as hdc two rows below), 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (100 st)

Row 17. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 12 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (106 st)

Row 18. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, 2 hdc in next hdc (1st center panel inc), hdc in next 10 st, 2 hdc in next hdc (2nd center panel inc) ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (114 st)

Rows 19 – 26. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 14 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (162 st at the end of row 26)

Row 27. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, 2 hdc in next hdc (1st center panel inc), hdc in next 12 st, 2 hdc in next hdc (2nd center panel inc) ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (170 st)

Rows 28 – 35. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 16 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (218 st at the end of row 35)

Row 36. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 6 st, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 6 st. ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (226 st)

Rows 37 – 44. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 18 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (274 st at the end of row 44)

Row 45. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 7 st, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 7 st. ch 2, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (280 st) (Note: On this row, the increases are in the center of the center panel, as opposed to being in the ch spaces, to prevent this panel from becoming bowed -- moving the increases towards the center on one row seemed to fix that.)

Rows 46 – 50. Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to ch space, hdc in ch space, ch 2, hdc in next 20 st, ch 2, hdc in ch space, hdc in remaining hdc, 3 hdc in turning ch. Turn. (310 st at the end of row 50)

Row 51. Ch 3, 2 dc in first hdc. Sk 2 st, tr in 3rd st, ch 1, tr in first skipped st working behind first tr. [Crossed treble (xtr) made]. Xtr another 46 times. Make 1 more xtr by skipping two st working 1st tr in ch space -- 2nd tr in 1st sk st. Make next xtr by making 1st tr in 2nd st past ch 2 space and 2nd tr in 2nd ch (of the ch 2 space). Xtr 6 more times across center panel. The last hdc of the center panel should be empty. Make next xtr: skip last hdc and make 1st tr of xtr in 2nd ch of ch 2 space and 2nd tr in the skipped hdc. Make xtr another 47 times, 3 dc in turning ch. Turn. (103 xtr)

Row 52. Ch 3, 1 dc in first st, xtr working 1st tr in 3rd dc from previous row and second tr in same st as 1st dc. With each xtr sitting directly above xtr stitch of the previous row, work another 103 xtr. Make one more xtr in 3 dc, 2 dc in same st as 2nd tr. Turn. (105 xtr)

Row 53. Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, dc in next st, xtr in xtr from previous row and in each xtr across. Dc in second to last st, 3 dc in turning ch. Turn. (105 xtr)

Row 54. Ch 3, 1 dc in first st, xtr working 1st tr in 3rd dc from previous row and second tr in same st as 1st dc. With each X stitch sitting directly above xtr stitch of the previous row, work another 105 xtr across. Make one more xtr in 3 dc, 2 dc in last st. Turn. (107 xtr)

Row 55. Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, dc in next st, xtr in xtr from previous row and in each xtr across. Dc in second to last st, 3 dc in turning ch. Turn. (107 xtr)

Row 56. Ch 2. Hdc in first st, and in every st across, 2 hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 57. Repeat row 56.

Row 58. Repeat row 56, but do not turn.

Top edge

Sc across top working 2 sc in each hdc row and 3 sc in each xtr row. Turn. Ch1. Sl st in each st across row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cut ribbon in half so there are 2 – 2.5 yd pieces. Fold each piece in half and weave through eyelets starting at top.

Verity Poncho

Crochet Me Admin — Fri, 23 Dec 2005 19:19:36 GMT

Author

by Angela Ho for Entwined Designs

Introduction

A quick and easy poncho that is anything but boring. It's named it Verity because of the "V" created by the shell pattern when it's seamed, and we think the simplicity of the pattern may just reveal some truths to you as you relax into crocheting it. Classic in any colour, Verity's sleek, graphic lines lend this poncho an urban edge. Unseamed and longer, it would make a lovely wrap or shawl. This pattern of diagonally stacked shells needs to be blocked to show off its beauty; I chose to wet-block and stretch it out with my blocking wires.

Materials List

Paton’s Classic Merino (223 yds / 205m per 3.5 oz / 100g), Colour 00230, 3(4, 4) balls
Hook size (J/10 – 6mm)

Finished Size

Adult S(M, L) for 43" (49", 56") around bust and arms.

Gauge

Chain 22 stitches and work in pattern for 8 rows. Your work should measure approximately 5.75" / 14.5 cm wide and 4" / 10 cm to the top of a shell in the last row.

Notes

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet

The Pattern

Chain 62 stitches loosely (all sizes)

Foundation row: Sc in second ch from hook, *ch 5, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch*, repeat between ** to end of row. Turn work.

Pattern row 1: Ch 2, 2dc in first sc (this makes a half shell), 1 sc under first ch-5 loop, *ch5, sc under next ch-5 loop, 5 dc in next sc (shell), 1 sc under next ch-5 loop*, repeat between ** ending the row ch 5, sc in last sc. Ch 2, turn work.

Row 2: Half shell in first sc, 1 sc under next ch-5 loop, *ch 5, 1 sc in third dc of next shell, shell in next sc, 1 sc under next ch-5 loop*, repeat between **s ending with 1 sc in top of turning chain. Ch 6, turn work.

Row 3: 1 sc under first ch-5 loop, *shell in next sc, 1 sc in third dc of next shell, ch 5, 1 sc under next ch-5 loop*, repeat between **s ending with shell in last sc, 1 sc in top of turning ch. Ch 6, turn work.

Row 4: 1 sc in center of next shell, *shell in next sc, 1 sc under next ch-5 loop, ch 5, 1 sc in third dc of next shell*, repeat between **s ending with 1 sc in third dc of last shell, shell in next sc, 1 sc into the 3 rd ch of the ch-6 turning loop. Ch 2, turn work.

Row 5: Half shell in first sc. 1 sc in third dc of next shell, *ch 5, 1 sc under next ch-5 loop, shell in next sc, 1 sc in third dc of next shell*, repeat between **s ending with ch 5, 1 sc into 3 rd chain of ch-6 turning loop. Ch 2, turn work.

Repeat rows 2-5 until you have worked 83 (91,99) rows in pattern ending with a ch5, and turning your work. (End of Row 3) Work modified row 4 instructions (see below) to get a straight edge across the top of your work.

Modified row 4 instructions: 1 Sc in third dc of next shell *dc, hdc, dc into next sc, ch 3 loosely, sc in third dc of next shell*, repeat between **s across row ending with 1 sc in third dc of last shell, dc, hdc, dc in last sc, ch 3 loosely and sc into 3 rd chain of ch-6 turning loop.

Fasten off.

Block severely.

Lay your work flat so that the diagonals are aligned this way (see diagram). Point E is the same distance in from point A as the distance between B and D (put another way, AE = BD).

Fold work so that points A and D meet and Points B and E meet. Sew the seem between points A and E neatly together.

Finish your work by single crocheting around the neckline and the bottom edge.

Artisan's Traveling Hat

Crochet Me Admin — Wed, 21 Dec 2005 14:21:42 GMT

Author

Jo Anne Tracy

Introduction

The inspiration for this hat came from Lis Paludan’s Crochet: History & Technique. Among the many wonderful photos in this book is one of a man’s “Traveling Hat,” an patterned straight hat with a flat top. This is my version. The top is crocheted in a spiral, with alternating bands of color. The woven appearance of the side pattern is achieved by following a simple pattern in the round. As in tapestry crochet, the stitches in the round are slightly offset causing the diagonal lines in one direction to appear solid, while the diagonals in the opposite direction are broken. See the accompanying tutorial Two-color crochet in the ‘round for more information.

Materials List

For small hat (Figure 1): Brown Sheep, Nature Spun Worsted 100% wool (245 yds / 100 g) in Sage [A] and Charcoal [B], 1 skein each.

For medium hat (Figure 2) : Koigu, Kersti Merino 100% merino wool (114 yds / 50 g) in color K519 [A], 1 skein, and Brown Sheep, Nature Spun Worsted 100% wool (245 yds / 100 g) in Black [B], 1 skein.

Size H hook

Stitch marker

Finished Size

Adult S [M, L] -- Circumference: 22 [23, 24] inches

Gauge

9 rows = 2 inches in pattern
10 st = 2 inches in pattern

Notes

When changing colors, do so by changing yarn in the st just BEFORE the change: Insert hook into st using OLD color, yo, pull loop through, yo in NEW color, pull though*.

US pattern notations: ch, sl st, sc.

The Pattern

Begin top

With A, wrap yarn around finger to make a loop (not a slip knot). Crochet first round into the center of the loop, then pull ends tight to close the center hole.

Rnd 1: 7 sc into loop. Do not join ends. Do not turn.

Rnd 2: continuing in the round, 2 sc in first st, change to B (see notes on changing colors); *2 sc in next st, change to A; 2 sc in next st, change to B; Repeat from * 2 more times, ending rnd with change to B. (14 st)

At this point it is a good idea to place a marker in the first st to mark the beginning of rnds.

Rnd 3: sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st, change to A; *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, change to B, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, change to A. Repeat from * 2 more times, ending with change to A. (21 st)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, change to B. * sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, change to A. sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, change to B. Repeat from * 2 more times, ending rnd with change to B. (28 st)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, change to A. *s sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, change to B. sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, change to A. Repeat from * 2 more times, ending with change to A. (35 st)

Continue in this manner, increasing 7 st on each round by adding a st at the end of each color section, for 14 [17, 20] rnds. (98 [119, 140] st)

Rnd 15 [18, 21]: with A, sl into the front loop of each st.

Rnd 16 [19. 22]: continue with A, sl st into the back of loop of st from rnd 14 [17, 20].

Rnd 17 [20, 23]: continue with A, sc into the same back of loop as previous row (it gets a little tight here). Reduce* by 2 [7, 4] st, distributing decreases evenly around. 96 [112, 136] st.

Begin Sides
Follow instructions below, or Chart A.

Rnd 18 [21, 24]: *With A, sc in in next 7 st; Change to B, 1 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 19 [22, 25]: *With B, 1 sc, change to A, sc in next 5 st, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 1 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 20 [23, 26]: *With A, 1 sc, change B, 1 sc, change to A, 3 sc, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 2 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 21 [24, 27]: *With A, 2 sc, change B, 1 sc, change to A, 1 sc, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 3 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 22 [25, 28]: *With A, 3 sc, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 4 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 23 [26, 29]: *With A, 2 sc, change B, 1 sc, change to A, 1 sc, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 3 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 24 [27, 30]: *With A, 1 sc, change B, 1 sc, change to A, 3 sc, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 2 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 25 [28, 31]: *With B, 1 sc, change to A, sc in next 5 st, change to B, 1 sc, change to A, 1 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Rnd 26 [29, 32]: *With A, sc in in next 7 st; Change to B, 1 sc. Repeat from * 11 [14, 17] more times.

Repeat rnds 18 [21, 24] through 26 [29, 32].

Alternately, to make a solid band at the end, repeat rnds 18 [21, 24] through 22 [25, 28] in pattern, then finish rnds 23 [26, 29] through 26 [29, 32] in B.

Rnd 27 [30, 33]: With B, sl st around. Break yarn.

Weave in ends. Wear and Be Cool.

Ballet Sweater

Robyn@6 — Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:40:13 GMT

Author

by Robyn Chachula

Introduction

Do you drool over the awesome sweater patterns for knitting? I do! So instead, of just sitting around getting frustrated that I couldn’t find patterns for crochet, I decided to come up with one of my own. My favorite sweaters are the ballet wraps, for the simple reason that no matter how much you eat you always look good in them. This sweater can be dressed up with ribbon ties or button closures, the choice is yours. I challenge all of you to come up with your favorite crochet fashions, so that we, too, can have mouth-watering patterns.

Materials List

8(9,10,12,14) balls of Patons Kroy Socks, Norfolk Blue #54110
1-inch wide ribbon, 3 yarns or 3 buttons of your choice
3.25mm (US D) hook
Yarn needle

Finished Size

XS (S, M, L, XL) Actual bust measurements: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40, 42.5)" To fit bust measurments: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"

Gauge

One full block, see diagram or pattern stitch = 1.25â€ x 1.25â€

Notes

This pattern was initially designed in diagram form, so please consult diagrams in case of a written error. There is a PDF of each diagram for sizes exTRa small, small, medium, large, and exTRa large.
Before jumping into crocheting, I really urge you to create a quick mock-up of the size you want. Ballet sweaters are known for fitting differently than normal sweaters. Please see the feature from last issue on how to create a quick mock-up.
Kroy sock yarn is very cool yarn. You can wash it in the washing machine and it doesn’t shrink! I recommend washing and air-drying each piece before you sew them together. It really makes the piece a lot softer.
The turning chains in this pattern have an additional chain to help loosen up the shells. If you find your shells are too loose you can simply decrease the turning chains by 1.

Pattern Stitch:

See stitch diagram (PDF).

CH 12.

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. CH 6 (counts as a TReble and chain 1), turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in last CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into beginning SC. CH 7 (counts as a TReble and chain 2), turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC, skip CH-3, CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space, CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. Finish off.

The Pattern

Back

See Back Diagrams: x-small (small, medium, large, x-large) (PDF).

CH 132 (142, 152, 162, 172).

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH {shell made}**. Repeat from ** 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times. 13 (14, 15, 16, 17) shells made. CH 6, turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3**. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

Rows 6-13 : Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 14: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 16- 23: Repeat Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 24: Repeat Row 2.

Row 25: TR (2 CH, TR) twice into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH 2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) three times into CH-6 space. CH 6, turn.

Row 26: SC into then second TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, skip next TR, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR , DC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 7, turn.

Row 27: (TR, 2ch, TR) into DC, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. CH 1, turn.

Rows 28-29: Repeat Rows 4-5.

Rows 30-37: Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 38: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. Fasten off, turn.

Row 39: Rejoin with sl to first CH-2 space, CH 7, (TR, 2ch, TR) into same CH 2 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across to second ending CH 1. TR (CH 2, TR) twice into last CH-2 space. Ch1, turn.

Rows 40-41: Repeat Rows 4-5.

Rows 42-57: Repeat Rows 2-5 three times (X-small), four times (Small and Medium), or five times (Large and X-large).

X-small (Medium, X-Large) sizes ONLY:

Rows 58-60: Repeat Rows 2-4.

Row 61: SC in SC, **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3, 4) times (3 [4, 5] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 62: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. CH 1, TR in SC. Fasten off.

Row 63: Rejoin with SC to top of 3rd (4th, 5th) shell from end of Row 60. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3, 4) times (3 [4, 5] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 64: Repeat Row 62.

Small (Large) sizes ONLY:

Row 58: Repeat Row 2.

Row 59: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** 2 (3) times (3½ [ 4½] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 60: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR. Fasten off.

Row 61: Rejoin with SC to top of 3rd (4th) shell from end of Row 60. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** 2 (3) times (3 [4] shells made). CH 1, TR (2 CH, TR) twice. CH 1, turn.

Row 62: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, CH 1, TR into SC. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Front Panels (make 2)

See Front Diagrams: x-small (small, medium, large, x-large) (PDF).

CH 102 (112, 122, 132, 142).

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) times (10 [11, 12, 13, 14] shells made). CH 6, turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

Rows 6-13 : Repeat Rows 2-5 twice. Fasten off, turn.

Row 14: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Row 16: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 17: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 2 times in CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 18: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR into SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 19: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH 3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across. CH 6, turn.

Row 20: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third CH of turning CH. CH 1, turn.

Row 21: Repeat Row 17.

Row 22: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 23: Repeat row 5.

Row 24: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell, SC in third TR. CH 1, turn.

Row 25: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to last shell, CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 3 times. CH 6, turn.

Row 26: SC into the second TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into SC. CH 7, turn.

Row 27: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH 3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH of turning chain. CH 1, turn.

Row 28-29: Repeat rows 4 and 5.

Row 30: Repeat row 24.

Row 31: Repeat row 17.

Row 32: Repeat row 22.

Row 33: Repeat row 5.

Row 34-37: Repeat rows 2-5. Fasten off, turn.

Row 38: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR, **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 39: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 2 times in last CH-2 space. CH 1, turn.

Rows 40-41: Repeat rows 4 and 5.

Rows 42-45: Repeat rows 2-5.

Row 46: Repeat row 24.

Row 47: Repeat row 17.

Row 48: Repeat row 22.

Row 49: Repeat row 5.

Rows 50-53: Repeat rows 2-5.

Row 54: Repeat row 24.

Row 55: Repeat row 17.

Row 56: Repeat row 22.

Row 57: Repeat row 5.

(X-small only) Row 58: Repeat row 24. Fasten off.

(All other sizes) Rows 58-59: Repeat row 2 and 3.

(Small only) Row 60: Repeat row 4. Fasten off.

(Medium, Large, X-large) Rows 60-61: Repeat rows 4- 5.

(Medium only) Row 62: Repeat row 24. Fasten off.

(Large and X-large): Row 62: Repeat row 24.

Row 63: Repeat row 17.

(Large only) Row 64: Repeat row 22. Fasten off.

(X-large) Row 64: Repeat row 22.

Row 65: Repeat row 5.

Row 66: Repeat row 24. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Sleeve (make 2)

Note: The sleeves are crocheted from cuff up to arm hole, so the pattern is written for the largest size first. See diagrams: x-large (large, medium, small, x-small) (PDF)

(X-Large only): CH 89.

(X-Large only) Row 1: TR (CH 2, TR) 2 times in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 6 times, CH 1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times in next CH. 7 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 6, turn.

(X-Large only) Row 2: SC in 2nd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last partial shell; CH 3, DC in 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 7, turn.

(X-Large Only) Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into DC, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into the 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

(Large Only): CH 89.

(Large Only): Starting Row: TR (CH 2, TR) in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 6 times. Ch1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 2 times in next CH. 7 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 1, turn.

(X-large and large): Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space. **CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space. Repeat from ** across. CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from top of t-CH. CH 1, turn.

(X-large and large): Row 5: SC in SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC in next SC (shell made). Repeat from ** across to end. CH 6, turn.

(Medium only): CH 82.

(Medium only) Starting Row: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 7 times (8 shells made). CH 6, turn.

(XL, L, M): Row 6: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3. **SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in first CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3. Repeat from ** across to last shell. SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next DC, DC in next CH-6 space, CH 1, TR in SC. CH 7, turn.

(XL, L, M) Row 7: Work (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip 3 CH, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

(XL, L, M) Rows 8-9: Repeat rows 4-5.

(Small Only) CH 72.

(Small Only) Starting Row: SC in second CH from hook. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from **6 times (7 shells made). CH 6, turn.

(XL, L, M, S): Row 10: Repeat row 6.

(XL, L, M, S): Row 11: TR, (2 CH, TR) 2 times into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip 3 CH, SC into SC. **CH 1, 1 TR, (2 CH, 1 TR) 4 times into next CH-2 space, CH 1, SC into SC. Repeat from ** across, ending with CH 1, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times into CH-6 t-CH. CH 6, turn.

(X-small Only) CH 69.

(X-small Only) Starting row: TR, (CH 2, TR) 2 times in 7th CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. **CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR, (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH (shell made). Repeat from ** 4 times. CH 1, skip 4 CH, TR, (CH 2, TR) 3 times in next CH. 5 full shells made; 2 partial shells made. CH 6, turn.

(All sizes): Rows 12-16: Repeat rows 2-6.

Row 17: Repeat row 11.

Rows 18-23: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 24-26: Repeat rows 4-6.

Row 27: Repeat row 11.

Rows 28-32: Repeat rows 2-6.

Row 33: Repeat row 11.

Rows 34-39: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 40-42: Repeat rows 4-6.

Rows 43: Repeat row 11.

Rows 44-49: Repeat rows 2-7.

Rows 50-53: Repeat rows 4-7.

Rows 54-55: Repeat rows 4-5. Fasten off, turn.

Row 56: Rejoin with SC to 3rd TR. **CH 3, skip next TR, DC in next CH-2 space, CH 2, DC in next CH-2 space of next shell, CH 3, SC in third TR. Repeat from ** across to last shell. CH 1, turn.

Row 57-58: Repeat rows 5-6. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Finishing

Wash each panel and let air dry.

Whip stitch front and back panels together. Leave arm hole open and leave one inch opening on left side of body near waist for ribbon. See photo (right).
Whip stitch sleeves to body and then whip stitch sleeves closed.
Attach ribbon to the right and left front panel edge near waist. See photo for guidance.
If you prefer buttons, line up right panel over left and sew buttons to left side. Openings in the shells will be the button holes for the buttons.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.

My Favorite Sweater Clutch

SkaMama — Thu, 15 Dec 2005 15:03:07 GMT

Author

by Julie Holetz

Introduction

Just as quickly as it arrived, summer has gone. In it’s place are shorter days, crunchy, amber leaves, and a brisk chill in the air. As the weather cools, we find ourselves drifting towards hot cocoa, warm soup, and soft wool yarns. Anyone who lives in a cooler climate has a favorite sweater. It’s soft, cozy, and makes us feel warm. I was inspired to combine my favorite sweater with my love for bags after seeing a recycled sweater dissected then reconstructed into a beautiful wool bag. Have fun with this idea and try playing with different collar structures. How about a cowl or split neck? Add a brooch, small pocket, or even buttons. The simple variation on the basic half double crochet captures the drape and texture of a soft wool sweater perfectly. A simple lining is necessary to contain pointy items like keys.

Materials List

Brown Sheep Lambs Pride (85% soft wool, 15% mohair/190 yds), 1 skein each of M23 Fuchsia (MC), M105 RPM Pink (A), M06 Deep Charcoal (B)
Size F/3.75mm and size G/4.5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Remnant of fabric for lining (cotton works best) and matching sewing thread
Sewing needle
1/2-inch magnetic clasp with backings (optional)

Finished Size

Body of bag: 11 inches wide x 4.5 inches high; collar adds another 2 inches in height.

Gauge

3.5 sts x 2.5 rows per 1 inch in herringbone hdc

Notes

Hhdc - herringbone half double crochet: yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through both loops on hook

Hhdc2tog – herringbone half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook into first st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through all three loops on hook)

The Pattern

Bottom

With smaller hook and color (B), ch 37.

Row 1: Hhdc in 3rd chain from hook. Hhdc into each stitch across to end (a total of 36 hhdc). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hhdc here and throughout). Hhdc into second stitch from previous row. Hhdc into each stitch across, ending with a hhdc in the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous row. Hhdc into each stitch across, ending with a hhdc in the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.

Next you will begin to work the pattern in joined rounds for the body of the clutch.

Round 4: Chain 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous row. Hhdc into each stitch across, ending with a hhdc in the turning chain from the previous row. Do not turn. Hhdc into the end of each row (a total of 3 hhdc). Working across the foundation chain, hhdc into the second chain and into each chain across (a total of 36 hhdc). Hhdc into the end of each row (a total of 3 hhdc). Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. At the end of round 4 you should have a total of 78 hhdc.

Round 5: Ch 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous round. Hhdc into each stitch around. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss.

Round 6: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 30 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 30 sts. Hhdc2tog. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts, changing to (A) with the last hhdc. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 74 hhdc)

Round 7: Ch 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous round. Hhdc into each stitch around. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss.

Round 8: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 28 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 28 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts, changing to (MC) with the last hhdc. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 70 hhdc)

Round 9: Ch 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous round. Hhdc into each stitch around. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss.

Round 10: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 26 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 26 sts. Hhdc2tog. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 66 hhdc)

Round 11: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 24 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 24 sts. Hhdc2tog. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 62 hhdc)

Round 12: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into next st. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 16 sts. . Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into next st. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into the next st. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 16 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into the next st. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 54 hhdc)

Round 13: Ch 2. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of the next 2 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 10 sts. . Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of the next 2 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 5 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of the next 2 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 10 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of the next 2 sts. Hhdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Hhdc into each of next 4 sts. Join to the top of the ch-2 with a ss. (total of 46 hhdc)

Round 14: Ch 2. Hhdc into second stitch from previous round. Hhdc into each stitch around. Join to the top of the ch 2 with a ss. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Collar

Design tip: Adjusting the beginning chain count will change the height of the collar. Adding rows will make the collar wider. Adjusting the hook size changes the tension, of the collar, which affects the drape.

With larger hook and color (MC), chain 16.

Row 1: Sc in second ch and in each ch across (a total of 15 sc). Turn.

Row 2- 50: Ch 1. In blo, sc in first st and in each st across. Turn.

Bring both short ends of collar together and sl st the last row to the first row. Tip: Slip stitching only the outer loops of each row together produces an invisible seam on one side.

Fasten off leaving a very long tail for attaching the collar to the body of the bag.

Assembly

If you plan to line the bag, trace the body of the bag onto the fabric before attaching the collar (see section on Lining, below). Look at both sides of the collar and decide which side you would like to be visible; this side should be on the outside when you attach it to the body of the bag. Turn the body of the bag inside out and whipstitch the row ends of the collar to the last row of the body of the bag. You will have a few more row ends than stitches so you will need to skip a couple of row ends along the way to keep the collar from puckering at the seam. Fasten off and weave in ends. Turn right-side out and fold collar down.

Lining

Fold fabric in half and place the bag on top. Trace around the sides (not including the collar) of the bag, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Cut along trace line. Beginning ¼ inch down from the top, sew around the sides and bottom of the bag leaving 1/4 inch at the top of the other side. Fasten off. Fold down one side of the top 1/4 inch down and tack down. Repeat for the top of the second side. Place and insert magnetic clasp (if using). Insert lining and sew to the inside of the bag.

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.