Women's size Boucle Cardigan

Feb 10, 2010
Views: 80,037
Comments: 32
Average rating:
Filed under: , , , ,

Introduction

After years of looking for a cardigan/jacket pattern that I really liked, I gave up.  I had recently made a pullover and some mittens with the Bernat Baby Boucle.  It's not fun to work with.  It's a bear to pull out if you make a mistake, and it can try your patience, but otherwise it does work up nicely.

Anyway, I grabbed up a hook, and a skein of yarn, and got to it.  It was trial and error, but this it the final product.  Sorry it looks sort of sloppy on the dress form.  It hangs better on a body.

If you want a wider collar, just add more rows of double crochet at the last step.

Materials List

3 large balls Bernat Baby Boucle  I used White for this one, because that was the only solid color at the store. 

K metal hook

I metal hook

safety pins or other stitch markers

Finished Size

This makes a Woman's large/XL, size 16-18, iwth sufficient room to wear something substantial underneath.

Gauge

8 double crochets = 3" with size K hook.

Notes

Ch: chain stitch

Slp: slip stitch

SC: single crochet

HDC:  half double crochet

DC: double crochet

Sorry for any confusion about the rows in the pattern. When I wrote it out, I did it in a numbered list.  Guess this format doesn't copy the numbered lists from WordPerfect.  I fixed it though.  Sorry, ya'll.

The Pattern

 

1. With larger hook, foundation chain 150

2.Chain 3. Skip the first stitch, and dc in each stitch

3. Turn. Chain 2. Hdc

4 Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 20"

5. Turn. Hdc in the next 30 stitches.

6.0Turn. Hdc in the next 27 stitches. Hdc 2 together. Finish the row

7 Turn. Hdc in the first stitch. Hdc 2 together. Finish the row.

8Continue row 6 & 7, decreasing one stitch on each row, until five decreases have been made for the next 3 rows.

9Turn. Hdc in each stitch across.

10Repeat #8 for the next 5 rows

11 Repeat #9

12 Repeat #7&8 until only ten stitches remain

13 Repeat #9. Finish off.[total of 21 rows]

 14 Join thread to other side. Repeat #5-13.

15 Count in 20 stitches from the inside edge of one side. Put a marker. Count 20 stitches from the inside edge of the opposite side. These are the armholes.

16 Join the thread at the 21st stitch, and hdc across in each stitch.

17 Turn. Hdc in each stitch

18 Repeat #17 until there is a total of 21 rows

19 Catch up the outer edge and join one shoulder. Finish off.

20 Join the thread at the other end of the back. Catch up the outer edge and join the other shoulder. Finish off.

SLEEVES

21 With size I hook, join thread to corner of armhole.

22 Chain 2. Hdc around one row.

23 Chain 3. Double crochet in each stitch. Join with Slp.

24 Repeat #23 four times

25 Chain 3. Dc in the next 7 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next 8 stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

26 Repeat #23 for next 5 rows.

27 Repeat #25

28 Repeat #23 for next 5 rows

29 Repeat #25

30 Repeat #23 for the next 5 rows

31Repeat #25

32 Repeat #23 one row

33 Chain 3. Dc in the next 3 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

34 Repeat #23 one row

35 Chain 3. Dc in the next 7 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next 8 stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

36 Repeat #23

37 Chain 3. Dc in the next 3 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

38 Repeat #23

39 Chain 3. Dc in the next 7 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next 8 stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

40 Repeat #23

41 Chain 3. Dc in the next 7 stitches. DC 2 tog. Dc in the next 8 stitches, DC 2 tog, repeat until chain 3. Join with slp

42 Repeat #23

43 Do not chain on. Sc in each stitch. Do not join. Make 10 rounds of Sc.

44 Slip stitch in previous row. Weave in loose ends

REPEAT #21 TO 44 FOR OTHER SLEEVE

 

COLLAR AND FACING

Switch to size K hook

Mark off yoke for begin and end points, where rows become all hdc. From end point, count back 12 stitches and mark off

Join thread with slip stitch at bottom of yoke, one slp, four Sc, 8 hdc, DC to first mark. 8 Hdc, 4 Sc, 2 slp

Turn. 4 slp, 6 Sc, 6 Hdc. Mark. Mark equal place on opposite side. Dc to mark. 6 Hdc, 6 Sc, 4 slp.

Turn 6 slp, 6 Sc, 6 Hdc. Mark. Mark equal place on opposite side. Dc to mark. 6 Hdc, 6 Sc, 6 slp

Chain 3. DC in each stitch. At the corner, chain 3. DC in each stitch along the bottom. At corner, chain 3. DC in each stitch up the facing and around the collar. Join with slp.


+ Add a comment

Comments

sonyaarch wrote
on Feb 11, 2010 8:04 PM
on Feb 12, 2010 4:37 PM

I have some Baby Boucle in my stash.  I think I'll try this sweater.  And it's in my size.  Thanks

on Feb 18, 2010 10:45 AM

I cannot figure out the row numbers on this pattern.  You state to repeat certain rows and they are not numbered.  For example you state to repeat rows 2 & 3.  What are rows 2 &3.

 

fbrideson7849@yahoo.com

AnneC@17 wrote
on Feb 20, 2010 5:23 AM

I LOVE this cardigan, however, it is very confusing without marked Row numbers.  Please edit the pattern and add Row numbers so it will be easier to follow your directions.  I'd love to make it.  You did a beautiful job.

wlandlady wrote
on Feb 20, 2010 7:56 AM

Pattern is editied. Sorry for the confusion.  I did it in a numbered list on Word Perfect.  Guess Microsoft has infiltrated even CrochetMe boards and won't properly paste from Corel.

Sorry ya'll.  But it's fixed. 

Wear it in good health.

Now crochet on.

Birdie wrote
on Feb 22, 2010 8:33 AM

I love Boucle and have been hunting for my size patterns in it. I am trying this one. Thank you for posting it.

wlandlady wrote
on Feb 22, 2010 8:39 AM

Thank you Birdie.

I just finished a pullover in Lion Brand Homestead.  It works up even better than the Boucle.  Unfortunately, the cost is out the wazoo.  I bought the yarn as I went along.  It's shaded, so if it's not an 'exact match' no one can really tell.

I'm going to make another one for someone else, and this time I'll write down the pattern as I go. 

Let me know how your cardi turns out.

ShellieD552 wrote
on Feb 22, 2010 2:39 PM

I wonder, if you increased the length if this would work as a comfy robe -- especially with the Lion Brand Homespun. I can get those skeins at our Walmart for a little less than at our JoAnns. This sounds yummy!

wlandlady wrote
on Feb 23, 2010 4:18 AM

Shellie,

I don't see why it wouldn't work.  Play around with it.  Try it on as you go [that's how I have to work out a pattern]   I would use larger hooks, say maybe an M for the body and a K for the sleeves.

If you're using Homespun, it pulls out a lot easier.to make.  However, it will cost a bomb to make.  At least 8 or 9 skeins I think.

DonnaMaeT wrote
on Feb 26, 2010 11:00 AM

What about in a size Medium?  size 12-14. I wonder if I could use a size smalle for the hook.

 

 

wlandlady wrote
on Feb 26, 2010 11:35 AM

Donna, I'd just start with 120 stitches rather than 150.  Then see if it goes around your hips.

When you get to step #15, you may want to count in only 15 stitches.

reduce the sleeve length a couple of rows if you need to as well.

Biggest thing is to hold it up and if it fits.  I am a member of the 'diesel fitter' school.  Hold things up and then you say 'yep, de's'll fit'er'. 

I'm afraid using a smaller hook would make it too hard to work with the boucle yarn.

kennajo wrote
on Feb 28, 2010 2:43 PM

I would love to make the is sweater but I am a 4x. What should I do to increase the pattern?

wlandlady wrote
on Feb 28, 2010 3:24 PM

Hi, KennaJo.

Just a suggestion.  As I said previous, I always try on as I go.

Try this:  Make your foundaition row at 176, rather than 150 stitches.  Measure it arount hips.  If it is enough, go for it.  Otherwise, you can just keep adding a few stitches then measuring until it is the right size.

Make all the rows you want to get the right length for you [I like sweaters long enough to cover my bum.  Others like them to stop mid hip.]  When it is the right length, [would be step 15 on the original] do this: 

Holding the piece by the top, most recently crocheted edge.  Fold it in half and mark.  The hold this up against you, and mark on one side only where the natural line would be where your arm 'hooks on', what would be the shoulder seam.  Mark an equal spot on both sides.

Count 20 spaces out from each mark.  Mark those spots.  That should give you enough room for the arm holes.

Pick up where you left off, just remember to measure as you go. 

Hope I didn't just confuse you more.

kennajo wrote
on Mar 8, 2010 11:14 PM

so I am crochetting this and I have another question, I hope you don't mind. I am confused on how this goes together. I did the foundation row and followed each step. Does this work as all one peice that is joined at the shoulders? With the openings for the arms left open? I hope I'm not asking a stupid question but this is the first "wearable" I have made, besides scarfes and hats.

wlandlady wrote
on Mar 9, 2010 4:27 AM

Kennajo, You're exactly right.  Only seams are at the shoulders.

My own personal buggaboo is seams.  I hate sewing pieces together. That's why I eschew granny squares.  Almost everything I crochet is made in the fewest pieces possible.

I'm sure you're doing fine.

And no, your question is not 'stupid'.

 

kennajo wrote
on Mar 10, 2010 5:00 PM

On line #12 the 10 remaining stitches ,will they be at the back of the neck? My email is kennajo711@yahoo.com I confused by line #14 and I also have more questions to ask...if you don't mind answering them.

DebbieC@28 wrote
on Mar 11, 2010 9:11 AM

I bought one like this at a second hand store last year & I just love it. I've been looking for a pattern. Thanks so much for posting this. I am going to buy yarn now and will keep your email handy! lol I have never made something for me to wear. Always work on stuff for the 9 grandchildren.

Debbie C

wlandlady wrote
on Mar 11, 2010 9:23 AM

Hi DebbieC.

First sweater I ever made was a baptism of fire.  Not just one, but 7 for assorted grandkids.  And naturally, they didn't decide they wanted them until October.  I managed to find a workable pattern for the girls on Annie's Attic.  Found one for the younger boys from Lion Brand Yarns.  For the teenagers, I combined several patterns together and came up with something completely different.

I also have a collection of similar sweaters from the charity shops.  I love them.  But why are they always either red or green?   Now, I can make them any color I like, so long as I can find the yarn. :)

on May 13, 2010 8:15 PM

wlandlady,

I love this!  It's exactly what I have been looking for, and in my size too.  I've added it to my waiting list of projects, but can hardly wait to start.  I might have to bump it up the list a few spaces.  Thank so much so designing this and sharing the pattern.   I'm rather looking forward to making it in the baby boucle.  I did a tree garland in it and thought it was fun to work with.  Thanks again!

Mountain_Butterfly

wlandlady wrote
on May 13, 2010 9:24 PM

Thanks Butterfly.

If you want it heavier, you may want to try Lion Brand Homestead.  It's also a nubby yarn, but a little stouter than the baby boucle.

I made a hoodie with it in February.  I would have posted it here, but like an idiot, forgot to write down the pattern! 

As soon as I get done the afghan I'm making for a wedding gift, I'll start on another hoodie. 

What do you think:  cardi or pullover with a hood?

Immaculada wrote
on May 14, 2010 4:42 AM

pretty. i must make it sometime.

jjmorgan2840 wrote
on May 18, 2010 6:33 PM

I am totally confussed from the 8th row down. How many decrease do we make to make how many rows. Do we count the hdc tog as a decrease? I have never made anything like this the only thing I have made to wear besides hats and armwarmers is a pineapple shawl. So i Need a little help. Thank you in advance.

jjmorgan2840

wlandlady wrote
on May 18, 2010 7:04 PM

Hi JJ.

Hdc 2 tog or DC 2 tog counts as a decrease.  by doing this, it does not make a wad where a standard decrease would be.  Instead it leaves a smooth flat surface.

The first decrease is every 8 stitches.  Then five rows of stitch per stitch, no decrease. 

Then another decrease every 8 stitches.  Then five more rows of stitch for stitch, no decrease.

Does that help?  Cause I think  I just confused myself :)

jjmorgan2840 wrote
on May 19, 2010 7:36 PM

It confused me a little. I will be trying it soon hopefully I will not have to keep bothering you. :)

JJ

jjmorgan2840 wrote
on May 20, 2010 5:17 PM

Ok so I have time to do it now and as I am rereading it, it gets more confusing. Are you saying do a row of every 8 stitches is a drecrease. Then the next five rows will be no decreases. And then a row of every 8 , then 5 more rows of no decreases and then another every 8 . Because that is what I got from the comment. I thought it was three rows of every 8 stitches then 5 rows of no. then3 rows again of 8 stitchs decreases. I just want to make it look good and above all feel good when wearing it.

JJ

wlandlady wrote
on May 20, 2010 8:41 PM

JJ,

You're not bothering me.  After I wrote my last response, I think I confused myself :)

In the decreasing rows, you have 8 stitches, either double or half double.  Then you do two stitches together.  That makes one decrease.  Then 8 more plain stitches.  Then two together.  All the way round in that one row.

Then you do five rows of no decreases.

Better?

jjmorgan2840 wrote
on May 23, 2010 3:02 PM

So here it is where I am stil confused.

6.0Turn. Hdc in the next 27 stitches. Hdc 2 together. Finish the row

7 Turn. Hdc in the first stitch. Hdc 2 together. Finish the row.

8Continue row 6 & 7, decreasing one stitch on each row, until five decreases have been made for the next 3 rows.

9Turn. Hdc in each stitch across.

10Repeat #8 for the next 5 rows

So this is the row that I go 7 stitches then decrease in that next stitch(8th stitch, Then go another 7 stitches and decrease in next stitch(8th stitch). so you do this for 3 rows. then go five rows with no decreases. then back to the 8 stitch decrease for 3 rows. Or is it you do a regular row as then every 8th st decrease for 5 rows.

 

I am so confussed still but I really want to make this I never stop doing a project I just start over from the begining and I really don't want to do that for this project it takes to much time.

 

Thank you again . You can always email at jjmorgan2840@yahoo.com to give me the answers just make sure you put in it is for this project.

JJ

salqudah wrote
on May 25, 2010 7:23 AM

I love it!  It's exactly the style I've been looking for...with the exception that I need to enlarge/increase the pattern to 3x or even better 4x.  How might I go about enlarging the pattern?  I also loved the vest you made in a previous pattern.  Keep up the great ideas!  I look forward to seeing more of your work!

Any help with enlarging the pattern would be very much appreciated!

Sandy

wlandlady wrote
on May 25, 2010 2:20 PM

Thank you, Sandy.

To enlarge it to a 3X, I would just add five stitches across the bottom.  Or perhaps use the next size up hook.

When I said this is a 1 to a 2X, it is a very generous 2X.  I like my sweaters good and baggy.

If you need the sleeves longer, just add a few rows before you begin to decrease.  Or you can add to the cuff.

I just got two more big skeins of baby boucle.  Going to try a hoodie with it next. and this time I'll remember to write it down :0)

jjmorgan2840 wrote
on May 27, 2010 3:50 PM

Do you have a picture of the back by any chance? I just want to make sure I am doing it right.

Thanks

JJ

wlandlady wrote
on May 27, 2010 5:53 PM

JJ,

The back is just straight across, with the turned down collar at the top, the last thing you do.

Diana Dangas wrote
on Jul 3, 2010 12:40 PM

Beautiful it looks so warm and cuddly can't wait to get going on this one thanks