Ice-Blue Ribbon

Aug 28, 2006
Views: 34,973
Comments: 17

Author

by Annette Petavy

Introduction

Ice-Blue Ribbon Sweater

Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.

So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.

It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.

The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.

Materials List

  • Yarn: Ribbon yarn working up at the gauge specified below. I used Phildar’s Rivage (50% viscose/50% polyamide, 103m/112yds per 50g/1.75 oz ball). As indicated above, this yarn is discontinued. Googling efforts have lead me to believe that Crystal Palace Yarn’s Mikado Ribbon might work well as a substitute. Yardage: approximately 1100 (1200, 1500) m [1200 (1300, 1650) yds].
    • Please note that the pattern will work with a more traditional yarn, as long as the gauge is the same. The resulting fabric will look different, though, and this difference will be most noticeable in the crocheted parts. Swatch and see if you like it!
  • Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
  • Knitting needles: 6mm (US 10)
  • Tapestry needle to weave in ends and seam pieces together
  • Smooth, thin yarn in matching colour for seaming – I used a light blue crochet thread #5.

Finished Size

S (M, L).

Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.

Gauge

Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Notes

All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).

Special knitting stitches:

st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.

DVD:  double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.

M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

Single decreases:

Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):

    K2togtbl:   knit two together through the back loop.

Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):

    K2tog:   knit two together.

The Pattern

Pattern

Ice-Blue Ribbon - backBack

With knitting needles, CO 84 (96, 110) sts. Work in st st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 1 (2, 3) cms [1/2 (3/4, 1 1/4)”], ending after a WS row.

Start decreasing for the waist, using the double vertical decrease (DVD) as explained above (decreases are made on the right side of the work):

Decrease row 1 (RS): K 26 (30, 34) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 29 (33, 37) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row.  [80 (92, 106) sts]

Work even for 3 (5, 5) rows.

Decrease row 2: K 25 (29, 33) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 28 (32, 36) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row.  [76 (88, 102) sts]

Work even for 3 (3, 5) rows.

Decrease row 3: K 24 (28, 32) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row.  [72 (84, 98) sts]

Work even for 3 rows.

Decrease row 4: K 23 (27, 31) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row.  [68 (80, 94) sts]

Work even in st st until the piece measures 11 (13, 13) cms [4 ¼ (5, 5)”], ending after a WS row.

Start increasing using M1R and M1L as explained above (increases are made on the right side of the work):

Increase row 1 (RS): K 23 (27, 31), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 24 (28, 32) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row.  [72 (84, 98) sts]

Work even for 5 (7, 7) rows.

Increase row 2: K 24 (28, 32), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 25 (29, 33) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row.  [76 (88, 102) sts]

Work even for 7 rows.

Increase row 3: K 25 (29, 33), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row.  [80 (92, 106) sts]

Work even for 5 rows.

Increase row 4: K 26 (30, 34), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row.  [84 (96, 110) sts]

Work even in st st until the piece measures 28 (30, 30) cms [11 (11 ¾, 11 ¾)”], ending after a WS row.

Start decreasing for the armhole. For decreases of multiple sts, BO the number of sts indicated. For single decreases, use the K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as explained above.

The decreases are worked on every other row, as follows:

Size small only

Decrease Row 1 (RS):  *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time.  (80 sts)

Purl next row.  

Decrease Row 2:  K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts.  (78 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 3:  Repeat Row 2.  (76 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4:  Repeat Row 2.  (74 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5:  Repeat Row 2.  (72 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6:  Repeat Row 2.  (70 sts)

Size medium only

Decrease Row 1 (RS):  *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 3 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 3 more times.  (88 sts)

Purl next row.  

Decrease Row 2:  *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time.  (84 sts)

Purl next row.  

Decrease Row 3:  K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts.  (82 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4:  Repeat Row 3.  (80 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5:  Repeat Row 3.  (78 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6:  Repeat Row 3.  (76 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 7:  Repeat Row 3.  (74 sts)

Size large only

Decrease Row 1 (RS):  *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 4 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 4 more times.  (100 sts)

Purl next row. 

Decrease Row 2:  *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time.  (96 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 3:  Repeat Row 2.  (92 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 4:  Repeat Row 2.  (88 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 5:  K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts.  (86 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 6:  Repeat Row 5.  (84 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 7:  Repeat Row 5.  (82 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 8:  Repeat Row 5.  (80 sts)

Purl next row.

Decrease Row 9:  Repeat Row 5.  (78 sts)

All sizes

Work even in st st until the piece measures 46 (50, 52) cms [18 (19 ¾, 20 ½)”].

Start shaping the shoulders and the back neck on the same row, working as explained below. Decreases are made every other row.

Mark the center 16 (18, 18) sts.

Shaping row 1: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts at beg of row, work to first marker, BO for neck the 16 (18, 18) sts between the markers, work to end of row. The left and right sides will now be worked separately.

Shaping row 2: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 3: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 4: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 5
: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 6: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.

BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.

Work the other side as follows:

Shaping row 2: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 3: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 4: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.

Shaping row 5: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.

Shaping row 6
: Work even.

BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.

Crocheted bottom border

With crochet hook, work into the bottom edge as follows:

Foundation:  *hdc in each of the next 3 knitted sts, hdc2togover the next 2 sts,* rep from * to * across, ch 1 loosely, turn. (Don’t worry if the last repeat is incomplete. You will still have the right ratio of crocheted sts/knitted sts).  [68 (77, 88) sts]

Row 1:  Hdc in each st across, ch 1 loosely, turn.  

Repeat Row 1 until it measures 8 (8, 10) cms [3 1/4 (3 1/4, 4)”], or to desired length.

Ice-Blue Ribbon - frontFront

With knitting needles, work as for back up to armhole shaping. For the front, the armhole shaping and the neck shaping start at the same time.

Armhole shaping: See instructions for back.

Neck shaping

BO the center 2 sts.

Use the single decreases K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as described above to decrease 1 st on every other row 4 times, and 1 st every 4th row 8 (9, 9) times.

Work the shoulder shaping and the crocheted bottom border as described for the back, eliminating instructions for back neck shaping.

Sleeves (make two)

With crochet hook, ch 54 (56, 64), ch 1 loosely, turn.

Row 1: Working in flo here and throughout, work 1 hdc in each ch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.

Row 2: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.

Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 34 (36, 36) cms, omitting the final turning ch-1.

Ice-Blue Ribbon - sleeveWork the sleeve cap shaping as follows

Note:  unless specified, there are no turning chains in this section.

Size small only

Row 1: Ch 1 loosely, sc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts, turn.  (52 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (38 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (34 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (30 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (28 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (26 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 18 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (20 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 12 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, turn.  (16 sts)   Fasten off.

Size medium only

Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 6 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (44 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (38 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (36 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (34 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (32 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (30 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (28 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (26 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (24 sts)

Row 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (22 sts)

Row 11: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 16 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (18 sts)

Row 12: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 12 sts.  (12 sts)  Fasten off.

Size large only

Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 48 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (50 sts)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (44 sts)

Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 38 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (40 sts)

Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (38 sts)

Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (36 sts)

Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (34 sts)

Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (32 sts)

Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (30 sts)

Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (28 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (28 sts)

Row 11: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (24 sts)

Row 12: Sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn.  (22 sts)

Row 13: Sl st in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts.  (14 sts)  Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. When working with ribbon yarn, make sure your ends are long, and don’t cut them too short when finished – the yarn tends to be slippery. Block the pieces.

Sew shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams working from the right side. For the seaming, use a smooth, thin yarn in matching colour. Pin the sleeves into the armholes, right sides facing together, and sew them into the armhole using back stitch.

I did not finish the neck edges. They roll naturally inward at the front neck and outward at the back edge. If you want to finish them, a simple row of sc around the neck would be a nice option.

Schematics 

Ice-Blue Ribbon schematics 

cms

inches (rounded to 1/4-inch)

S

M

L

S

M

L

A = Bust width

44,5

50

57,5

17 1/2

19 3/4

22 3/4

B = Total height

53

63

64

20 3/4;

24 3/4

25 1/4

C = Armhole height

17,5

18,5

21

6 3/4

7 1/4

8 1/4

D = Shoulder width

10,5

11

12

4 1/4

4 1/4;

4 3/4

E = Neck width

15

15,5

16,5

6

6

6 1/2

F = Total sleeve length

42

46

48

16 1/2

18

19

G = Sleeve cap height

8

10

12

3 1/4

4

4 3/4

H = Sleeve width

36

38,5

44,5

14

15

17 1/2

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Comments

Roe wrote
on Aug 28, 2006 9:36 PM

Love it!! Thank you. I have proposed a crochet/knit along on the forum.

Lisa wrote
on Aug 29, 2006 4:42 AM

Fabulous! As a long-time knitter who is just learning crochet (from the excellent Amigurumi issue), I am thrilled with cool and wonderful Crochet-Me. This knit/crochet combination endears you all the more to me! Thanks!

Alicia wrote
on Aug 29, 2006 6:00 AM

This is just beautiful! I can't wait to try it!

Erssie wrote
on Aug 29, 2006 6:23 AM

I truly love the combination of knit and crochet in this sweater. Who says we can't do both? This is a very classy and extremely well tailored garment. I also loved the neatness of the unfinished neck edges, is it because this is a ribbon yarn it works so well I wonder? It doesn't surprise me at all that the designer is living in France. As a person who loves both knitting and crochet, I am keen to see more combinations of both so that the best techniques for specific jobs are used.

katy wrote
on Aug 29, 2006 7:06 AM

i love the combination of textures!

on Aug 29, 2006 8:26 AM

Great idea, Roe! For those interested, here's a direct link to the C/KAL on the forum.

Annette wrote
on Aug 30, 2006 11:41 PM
Hi Erssie, and thanks to you and the others for all these nice comments.

You wondered about the rolling of the neck edges. I think it will work well in another yarn too. This is just the way knitted stockinette stitch behaves. I suggest you make a small swatch in stockinette, without any edgings whatsoever. The sides of your swatch will tend to curl to the wrong side of the fabric, and the top and bottom will tend to curl to the right side.

Lynne wrote
on Sep 2, 2006 11:44 AM

It's a beautiful sweater--I only wish I had the patience to learn how to knit. Maybe someday (once I've completed all of the crochet projects that I've got going on through the end of the year!).

Faye wrote
on Sep 15, 2006 9:24 PM

There are lots of magazines that have lovely knitted garments. I knit, and if I want a design that has knitting in it, I would go to a knitting site or a knitting book. I frequent Crochet Me because of the inovative CROCHET designs, not designs that have to be knitted , in whole or in part.

Norah wrote
on Dec 10, 2006 4:47 PM

This is just gorgeous. I know how to knit; however, I hate knitting and if something has any knitting beyond an edging, I get sick of the project and end up frogging. Could we pleeeeassseeeee have a design like this, with the beautiful shaping and style and everything, only **totally** in crochet?? I know I should design something myself, but I don't have a clue about how to do the sizing, and if I did something like this only in crochet, it'd be copying.

Anonymous wrote
on Sep 22, 2007 7:32 AM

I love both textures. I'm a knitter and learned to crochet just so I wouldn't be stopped from making a beautiful sweater like this just because it incorporates a skill I don't know---get your game on, people!

Cora Shaw@2 wrote
on Sep 27, 2007 2:20 PM

Hmm I have some discontinued ribbon yarn from Paton's, that I have been wondering what to make with it. It was a good price. I think this is it.

Cora

sanhita wrote
on Jan 22, 2008 2:03 AM

This is a very pretty pattern, I love the way both knit and crochet have been combined !! This definitely would be in my " to do " list.

on Jan 23, 2008 4:47 PM

Hi Annette,

I think your sweater is beautiful, but is there any way that I can make it with some other yarn besides ribbon yarn? I don't much care for the feel.

Thanks!

~CK

Cora Shaw@2 wrote
on Jan 23, 2008 8:27 PM

This is gorgeous! I can hardly wait to do this one.

Cora

on Jul 16, 2008 8:38 AM

Lovely sweater; great job great fit.. hats off to you.

Scotkat wrote
on Oct 24, 2008 8:36 AM

Just beautiful.