Percussionist's Mallet Bag

Jul 25, 2008
Views: 14,912
Comments: 5

Author

Alison Malito

Introduction

Some wives make hats, sweaters, or scarves for their husbands, but I married a percussionist. Here is my first original design for a mallet bag. It's a wrap that rolls up and slides into a bag for easy transportation. When performing, the percussionist can roll out the wrap across a table or a couple of music stands, then when s/he picks up or puts down a pair of mallets, the wrap muffles any sound.

Materials List

Pretty much any yarn will do – scraps would be ideal. I used Red Heart Super Saver that happened to be left over from other projects... I always buy extra in anticipation of returning some. However, my puppy got into my stash, chewed up and spat out the labels and mangled the balls, rendering them unreturnable!

I used 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m) for the mallet wrap. The bag also required 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m).

Crochet hook size H/8 – 5.00 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Buttons: 2cm (3/4 in) for the wrap and optional 1.5 cm (5/8 in) for the bag

Finished Size

Wrap measures approximately 46 cm x 114 cm (18 in x 45 in). Carrying bag has a diameter of 18 cm (7 in) and a height of 48 cm (19 in).

Gauge

6 sts & 5 rows in hdc = approx. 5 cm (2 in)… Gauge is not terribly important, but the bag will need to be wide enough to accommodate the length of the mallets.

Notes

This bag holds up to 22 pairs of marimba, xylophone, or vibraphone mallets. The pattern should be easy to adjust for a different number of pairs – simply add (or subtract) 12 stitches from the beginning chain for each 1 – 2 pairs of mallets you wish to add (or subtract). Mallets can be inserted individually or in pairs through the holders.

Note: Beginning ch. 2 counts as hdc throughout.

This pattern has not yet been tested, so if anyone else out there needs a mallet bag, please let me know how you get on with this!

The Pattern

Mallet Wrap Row 1: Chain 148. Hdc in 3rd ch and every ch across. 147 sts. Turn. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc). Hdc in every st across. Turn. Rows 3 – 12: Repeat row 2. Work should measure approx. 12 cm (4.5 inches). Row 13: Ch 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across. Rows 14 – 16: Repeat row 2. Row 17: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. **Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 3 sts; ch 2, skip next 2 sts; hdc in next 5 sts. Repeat from ** across. Row 18 – 20: Repeat row 2. Row 21: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 19 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of last 5 sts. Rows 22 – 30: Repeat row 2. Rows 31 – 38: Repeat rows 13 – 20. Rows 39 – 50: Repeat row 2. Stitch a row of sc evenly around the entire edge. Sl st to join, then sl st. in each sc around. Finish off. Add a closure strap – the length and width may vary depending on your preferences and the size of button you have lying around. Here is how I made mine: Row 1: Ch 7. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. Rows 2 - 18: Ch. 1. Sc in each sc across. Turn. Row 19: Ch. 1. Sc in next 2 sc. Ch 2, skip 2 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Turn. (first buttonhole made) Rows 20 – 25: Ch. 1. Sc. in each sc across. Turn. Row 26: Repeat row 19. Repeat rows 20 – 26 until you have made the desired number of buttonholes (so the bag can be closed tightly whether it is full, partially full, or almost empty). Last row: Ch 1. Sc in each sc across. Finish off. Finishing: Sew strap about midway down the short edge that has the larger space before the mallet holes begin. Sew a button on to the centre of the strap near where it is joined to the bag. Fill the bag with mallets and roll it up. Fold the strap back and fasten the last buttonhole to the button. Use a contrasting piece of yarn to mark the spot where the fold occurs. You need to attach one more piece, which the closure strap will pass under before folding back and attaching to the button. To make this last piece (remember to adjust if you have made a wider closure strap than that listed): Ch 10. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. *Ch. 1, sc in each ch across. Turn. Repeat from * until your piece is the desired width (I used 4 rows). Attach this last piece at the place you marked, making sure the closure strap can pass underneath it. Close up of closure strap Carrying Bag Bottom: Rnd 1: Form a ring (either chain 4 and join with a slip stitch, or use the Magic Adjustable Ring); ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join with sl st in the top of the ch 2. Rnd 2: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc), hdc in same st as ch 2, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join with sl st. Rnd 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st Rnd 4: ch 2, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st Rnd 5: ch 2, hdc in next 2 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st Rnd 6: ch 2, hdc in next 3 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st Rnd 7: ch 2, hdc in next 4 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st Rnd 8: ch 2, hdc in next 5 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 6 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st At this point, check the diameter of your circle with the diameter of a full, rolled up wrap. If it appears that the circle is large enough, begin crocheting the sides. If the circle needs to be a little larger, continue working the bottom in the established pattern before moving on to the sides. Sides: Rnd 1: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc); hdc in back loop only of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning chain. Rnds 2 - 41: ch 2 to begin each round, then either hdc in each st around and join with sl st, or ch 1, *skip next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * around and join with sl st. Choose your own system! If you wish to attach a button or buttons to the top of the bag ensure that you provide a space for it in one of the rows near the top of the bag. Final rnd: ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. Carrying strap: Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts, turn. Row 2 - 48: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts. To attach carrying strap, sl st through the last row of the carrying strap and the unworked loops of Rnd 1 of the sides of your bag. Make sure your strap is straight and takes the shortest path from top to bottom of the bag before attaching. Sew in all loose ends. If desired, attach a button or two to the top of the bag. My patient model
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Comments

PaulineL wrote
on Jul 25, 2008 11:41 PM

Super! Crochet is so versatile. Now for a cover for the percussed - marimba, xylophone, or ???

Emma-SophiaR wrote
on Jul 26, 2008 2:00 AM

That is SO cool!

Best, Sophia

dom-gi wrote
on Jul 31, 2008 4:00 PM

My kids love to use juggling sticks. We recently went camping and got there without two full sets. I have been putting them in a large laundry bag and hanging the bag on the back of a closet door. This will be a great way to store, carry, and make sure that we (usually me) put them away in full sets. Thanks for the great pattern.

JacquelynD wrote
on Aug 6, 2008 11:33 AM

That is so cool. My son is a drummer and he asked for a crocheted bag for his drumsticks. Thanks for the pattern.

SharonW@52 wrote
on Sep 13, 2008 3:52 PM

I, too, married a percussionist, and though it is a lot of hats I make, stuff like this comes in a lot. This pattern is neat. Have you ever made a tabla case/bag?

Thanks,

Sharon