Chunky Tapestry Crochet Baskets

Apr 27, 2009
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Author

Erssie Major

Introduction

Bright and colourful baskets are made from scraps of chunky wool by making a circular 2 colour or 3 colour spiral base, then making the sides using simple motifs and tapestry crochet See Carol Ventura's blog for more on that technique.
These are firm baskets blocked to shape. The yarn is chunky and the hook is fairly small making it easier to cover carried colours but also gives the baskets their firmness.

NOTE: THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN UK CROCHET STYLE
THEREFORE dc = sc in US CROCHET STYLE
Use dc (sc) throughout in the back loops only

 

Spiral Bottoms

Materials List

Large Basket 4 x 50g Chunky Wool (shown here in Texere chunky) A: Bright Pink B: Bright Aqua C: Green D: Purple 1 x 3.5mm hook (Clover soft touch is best) Small Basket Materials Small amounts of Yarn A Yarn B Yarn C

Finished Size

Any size you want, depends on how large you make the base...just continue making the spiral until the base is desired size Size Shown Large approx 18cm diameter Small approx 7 cm diameter

Gauge

Not essential, but make sure you use a much smaller hook to get tight tension and a stiff basket. I used chunky for a normal knitting needle size of around 6mm, but my hook was 3.5 mm.

Notes

To change colours, on last stitch before the new colour, whilst 2 lps are on the hook drop working colour and bring to front of work, pick up new colour and pull through the 2 lps.
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in the motifs so when finishing the bottom, either stop at correct point, or you could increase or decrease a few sts on last rnd of bottom to fit. I started to work in the opposite direction, this was so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of sides face outwards.

Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc using tapestry crochet motifs and outer circle starts to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.

The Pattern


Large Basket
Bottom
Two Colour Spiral
With Yarn A, make a slip knot, but unlike your slipknot that pulls in or expands easily when pulling the working yarn, make sure that your slipknot is adjustable by pulling the tail of the yarn
Using the working end of yarn A, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring (3dc)
Using yarn B, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring made from yarn A (3dc)
Pick up yarn A again and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn B that you made into the ring (6dc)
Pick up yarn B and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn A that you made into the ring (6dc)
One rnd is complete, and there should be a total of 12 dc, half in colour A and half in the other colour B.
Now pull the tail of yarn A, from the original slipknot, and tighten the ring in the middle to make the stitches snug.
You are now ready to continue working in a spiral.
Work half the rnd in A, remove your hook and complete the other half of the rnd in B always making sure you are going in the same direction.
I used 2 colours in this way to make the bottom of the larger basket. You need to use the same rules for increasing a flat circle as follows:
Increases
In the first rnd work 2 dc in each stitch
Next rnd 1 dc in next st, 2dc in next st
Next rnd 1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next st
Continue to increase in this way, putting one more dc in between each of the decrease dc's on each rnd until the basket bottom is the diameter you wish it to be. Make sure the last round is a multiple of 12 stitches, or increase on the last rnd to make a multiple of 12 sts.
Main Body of Basket
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in these motifs start to work in the opposite direction, so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of the sides is shown on the outside.
Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc (i.e. without increasing) using tapestry crochet motifs and the outer circle will start to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.
Hounds Tooth Motif Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: *3dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D, rep from * to end of rnd
Rnd 3: 2dc Yarn B, *3dc Yarn D, 1dc Yarn B rep from * to last 2dc, 2dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: As rnd 2
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Diagonal Motifs Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: 2dc Yarn D, 2dc Yarn B rep from * to end
Rnd 3: 1 dc Yarn D, 2 dc Yarn B, 2 dc Yarn D rep to last 3dc, 2 dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: 2 dc in Yarn B, 2 dc in yarn D to end of rnd
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Fasten off.
Finish edge using Crab Stitch as explained below.
Small Basket
Bottom
3 Coloured Spiral
Join together 3 colours as a spiral, exactly as for 2 colour spiral explained above and as follows:
Using yarns A, B, and C make an initial 3dc each into the slipknot of yarn A, then made dc's into the next yarns in sequence, so
A worked 3dc into B,
B worked 3 dc into C,
and C worked 3 dc into A.
All travelling in the same direction and working in a spiral.
Continue to work all 3 yarns by making a dc in next dc's for a few sts, then removing hook and working another section. This will make a cylinder shape with stripes spiralling around to the top.
For this smaller pot, I stopped making a circle on 4th rnd, and then just worked one dc into every dc for the top part of the basket, finishing with yarn D.
Fasten off when required height.
Finishing Both Baskets
Crab Stitch Edging
You can find tutorials online (see Resources)
To finish off the baskets, use good old fashioned crab stitch. Attach a contrast coloured yarn, here I used Yarn B.
This stitch doesn't so much go sideways as completely backwards.
Pull the hook with a loop on, into the stitch behind the current stitch i.e. backwards, then pull another loop through, and pull up 2 loops and pull the yarn through these 2 loops, and then work backwards again....repeating this sort of gives a cross between a blanket stitch edge or a picot edge in look, you can see where your 2 final loops get pulled around the edge of the basket.
Fasten off, and wrap last bit of yarn around the edge of last stitch twice, secure and weave end on the inside.

Blocking Baskets

How to Block Your Baskets
Wash them both in fairly hot water for a semi felt to stiffen the wool but to keep the shape and size, whilst it is still damp and hot put the large basket onto a flower pot, so it takes the shape of it gradually widening with the flower pot
Put the small basket around a bottle or small pot.
Both baskets can put onto a radiator or in the airing cupboard near warm pipes to dry and when the pots are removed, they take on the shape of them perfectly. If you don't mind a fair amount of shrinkage, you could completely felt them but do remember to try and reshape whilst felting otherwise you could get a shapeless mess.
Abbreviations (A - Z) Beg: Beginning
Ch: Chain
Dc: UK Double Crochet (US sc single crochet)
Lp (s): Loop (s)
St (s) : Stitch (es)

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Comments

ErssieM wrote
on Apr 27, 2009 5:31 AM
Erssie Major
Textiles Designer and Pattern Writer

See my website http://www.erssieknits.com and the gallery for pics of these baskets and their spiral bottoms

on Apr 27, 2009 6:28 AM
mad for crochet!

I love your baskets, erssie, thanks for the pattern. Your website is really great. I also found your story on the V&A site of how you learned to knit. I am haunted by your fascinating, but horrifying tale of your great grandmother's knitting experiences in the girls home.

jenninbrissy wrote
on Apr 27, 2009 3:11 PM

Thanks for the pattern. Yet another I have to try. List keeps growing bigger :). This pattern can probably be made green by using recycled plastic bag strips.