I have a scarf that’s about ten feet long. I adore it. I can wrap it around my neck twelve times and it still hangs down to my knees. I like to wear it under my jacket when I’m outside in the cold, but stuffing the ends in my coat makes me look like Quasimodo. I like to wear it inside over my sweater, but when I lean over the ends slip over my shoulders and drag on the floor, or I shut them in the car door and the ends get soaked. Solution: get rid of the ends. Duh. The result is a cowl that is lacy enough to be worn with a nice sweater indoors, but bulky enough to keep your neck warm outside in the middle of winter.
- Opal Sock Yarn (425 meters/100 grams) in winter white, 1 skein (or any sock or fingering weight yarn)
- 3.25mm (size D) hook
One size.
Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Note: Ooh, it’s two looks in one pattern! To make one of those popular mobius [1] cowls, twist your starting chain 180 degrees before you connect the ends together. It makes it look a little more interesting – a cowl with a twist!
Let's Begin!
Chain 169, join with a sl st to the beg ch.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc in same space (4dc shell made). *Sk 4 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 4dc shell*; repeat from * to * 11 more times. Sk 4 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts. Finish with a sl st in the top of the starting ch. Do not turn -- the cowl is worked in the round.
Row 2: Ch 3, 3 dc in same st (4dc shell made), sk 6 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc into sc in previous row, ch 3, *sk 3 sts, 4dc shell, sk 6 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc into sc in previous row, ch 3;* repeat from * to * around. Sk 3 sts and finish with sl st in top of starting ch.
Row 3: Ch 3, 3 dc in same st (4dc shell made), *ch 3, sc between the two 4dc shells from the previous row, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 4dc shell, sk 7 sts, 4dc shell in next st;* repeat from * to * around, ending with sk 7 and sl st in top of starting ch.
Row 4: Sl st in next 3 sts, ch 3, 3 dc in same st (4dc shell made), ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc into sc in previous row, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 4dc shell, *sk 6 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in sc of previous row, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 4dc shell;* repeat from * to * around. Sk 6 sts and finish with sl st in top of starting ch.
Row 5: Sl st in next 3 sts, ch 3, 3 dc in same st (4dc shell made), sk 7 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sc in space between 4dc shells in the previous row, ch 3, *sk 3 sts, 4dc shell, sk 7 sts, 4dc shell, ch 3, sc in space between 4dc shells in the previous row, ch 3;* repeat from * to * around, finish with sl st in top of starting row.
Rows 6-32: Rep rows 2-5. Do not fasten off.
Picot Edging, top: Sc in same st as joining, picot (see stitch note), sc in next 5 sts, sk 1 st, sc in next st, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 5 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, *sc in next 2 sts, sk 1 st, sc in next 4 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sc in next 4 sts, sk 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sk 1 st, sc in next 6 sts, picot, sc in next 6 sts, picot;* repeat from * to * around, finishing with a sl st in the first sc worked. Fasten off.
Hint: In order to give the edging just a touch of a scalloped look, you’re skipping the sc’s you made in the previous row. Otherwise, it’s just picots separated by 6 sc’s.
Picot Edging, bottom: Join anywhere on bottom row with sc. Picot, sc in next 7 sts, *picot, sc in next 6 sts;* repeat from * to * around, finishing with a sl st in the first sc worked. Fasten off.
Weave in ends, do not block. Pull over your head. Look fabulous.
