
Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.
So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.
It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.
The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.
S (M, L).
Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.
Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]
Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]
All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).
Special knitting stitches:
st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.
DVD: double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.
M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).
M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).
Single decreases:
Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):
K2togtbl: knit two together through the back loop.
Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):
K2tog: knit two together.
BackWith knitting needles, CO 84 (96, 110) sts. Work in st st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 1 (2, 3) cms [1/2 (3/4, 1 1/4)”], ending after a WS row.
Start decreasing for the waist, using the double vertical decrease (DVD) as explained above (decreases are made on the right side of the work):
Decrease row 1 (RS): K 26 (30, 34) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 29 (33, 37) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [80 (92, 106) sts]
Work even for 3 (5, 5) rows.
Decrease row 2: K 25 (29, 33) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 28 (32, 36) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [76 (88, 102) sts]
Work even for 3 (3, 5) rows.
Decrease row 3: K 24 (28, 32) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [72 (84, 98) sts]
Work even for 3 rows.
Decrease row 4: K 23 (27, 31) sts, make 1 DVD, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, make 1 DVD, K until end of row. [68 (80, 94) sts]
Work even in st st until the piece measures 11 (13, 13) cms [4 ¼ (5, 5)”], ending after a WS row.
Start increasing using M1R and M1L as explained above (increases are made on the right side of the work):
Increase row 1 (RS): K 23 (27, 31), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 24 (28, 32) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [72 (84, 98) sts]
Work even for 5 (7, 7) rows.
Increase row 2: K 24 (28, 32), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 25 (29, 33) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [76 (88, 102) sts]
Work even for 7 rows.
Increase row 3: K 25 (29, 33), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 26 (30, 34) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [80 (92, 106) sts]
Work even for 5 rows.
Increase row 4: K 26 (30, 34), M1R, K1, M1L, K until 27 (31, 35) sts remain, M1R, K1, M1L, K until end of row. [84 (96, 110) sts]
Work even in st st until the piece measures 28 (30, 30) cms [11 (11 ¾, 11 ¾)”], ending after a WS row.
Start decreasing for the armhole. For decreases of multiple sts, BO the number of sts indicated. For single decreases, use the K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as explained above.
The decreases are worked on every other row, as follows:
Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (80 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 2: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (78 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (76 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (74 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 5: Repeat Row 2. (72 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 2. (70 sts)
Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 3 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 3 more times. (88 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 2: *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (84 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 3: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (82 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (80 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 5: Repeat Row 3. (78 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 3. (76 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 7: Repeat Row 3. (74 sts)
Decrease Row 1 (RS): *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 4 more times, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 4 more times. (100 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 2: *K2togtbl over next 2 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, K until 4 sts remain, *K2tog over next 2 sts,*rep from * to * 1 more time. (96 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (92 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (88 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 5: K2togtbl over next 2 sts, K until 2 sts remain, K2tog over next 2 sts. (86 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 6: Repeat Row 5. (84 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 7: Repeat Row 5. (82 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 8: Repeat Row 5. (80 sts)
Purl next row.
Decrease Row 9: Repeat Row 5. (78 sts)
Work even in st st until the piece measures 46 (50, 52) cms [18 (19 ¾, 20 ½)”].
Start shaping the shoulders and the back neck on the same row, working as explained below. Decreases are made every other row.
Mark the center 16 (18, 18) sts.
Shaping row 1: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts at beg of row, work to first marker, BO for neck the 16 (18, 18) sts between the markers, work to end of row. The left and right sides will now be worked separately.
Shaping row 2: BO for shoulder 8 (6, 7) sts. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 3: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 4: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 5: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 6: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.
BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.
Work the other side as follows:
Shaping row 2: BO for neck 5 (3, 3) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 3: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 4: BO for neck 0 (2, 2) stitches. Work to end of row.
Shaping row 5: BO for shoulder 7 (6, 6) stitches. Size small is finished. For remaining sizes, work to end of row.
Shaping row 6: Work even.
BO the remaining 0 (5, 6) stitches.
With crochet hook, work into the bottom edge as follows:
Foundation: *hdc in each of the next 3 knitted sts, hdc2togover the next 2 sts,* rep from * to * across, ch 1 loosely, turn. (Don’t worry if the last repeat is incomplete. You will still have the right ratio of crocheted sts/knitted sts). [68 (77, 88) sts]
Row 1: Hdc in each st across, ch 1 loosely, turn.
Repeat Row 1 until it measures 8 (8, 10) cms [3 1/4 (3 1/4, 4)”], or to desired length.
FrontWith knitting needles, work as for back up to armhole shaping. For the front, the armhole shaping and the neck shaping start at the same time.
Armhole shaping: See instructions for back.
BO the center 2 sts.
Use the single decreases K2togtbl or K2tog respectively as described above to decrease 1 st on every other row 4 times, and 1 st every 4th row 8 (9, 9) times.
Work the shoulder shaping and the crocheted bottom border as described for the back, eliminating instructions for back neck shaping.
With crochet hook, ch 54 (56, 64), ch 1 loosely, turn.
Row 1: Working in flo here and throughout, work 1 hdc in each ch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1 loosely, turn.
Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 34 (36, 36) cms, omitting the final turning ch-1.
Work the sleeve cap shaping as followsNote: unless specified, there are no turning chains in this section.
Row 1: Ch 1 loosely, sc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts, turn. (52 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)
Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)
Row 4: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)
Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)
Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn. (26 sts)
Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)
Row 8: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 18 sts, sc in next st, turn. (20 sts)
Row 9: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 12 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, turn. (16 sts) Fasten off.
Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 6 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn. (44 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)
Row 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn. (36 sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)
Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn. (32 sts)
Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)
Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)
Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 24 sts, sc in next st, turn. (26 sts)
Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)
Row 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn. (22 sts)
Row 11: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hds in each of the next 16 sts, sc in next st, turn. (18 sts)
Row 12: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 12 sts. (12 sts) Fasten off.
Row 1: Sl st in each of the next 7 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 48 sts, sc in next st, turn. (50 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 42 sts, sc in next st, turn. (44 sts)
Row 3: Sl st in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 38 sts, sc in next st, turn. (40 sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 36 sts, sc in next st, turn. (38 sts)
Row 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts, sc in next st, turn. (36 sts)
Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts, sc in next st, turn. (34 sts)
Row 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts, sc in next st, turn. (32 sts)
Row 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts, sc in next st, turn. (30 sts)
Row 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 26 sts, sc in next st, turn. (28 sts)
Row 11: Sl st in the next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts, sc in next st, turn. (24 sts)
Row 12: Sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, sc in next st, turn. (22 sts)
Row 13: Sl st in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts. (14 sts) Fasten off.
Weave in all ends. When working with ribbon yarn, make sure your ends are long, and don’t cut them too short when finished – the yarn tends to be slippery. Block the pieces.
Sew shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams working from the right side. For the seaming, use a smooth, thin yarn in matching colour. Pin the sleeves into the armholes, right sides facing together, and sew them into the armhole using back stitch.
I did not finish the neck edges. They roll naturally inward at the front neck and outward at the back edge. If you want to finish them, a simple row of sc around the neck would be a nice option.
|
cms |
inches (rounded to 1/4-inch) |
|||||
|
S |
M |
L |
S |
M |
L |
|
|
A = Bust width |
44,5 |
50 |
57,5 |
17 1/2 |
19 3/4 |
22 3/4 |
|
B = Total height |
53 |
63 |
64 |
20 3/4; |
24 3/4 |
25 1/4 |
|
C = Armhole height |
17,5 |
18,5 |
21 |
6 3/4 |
7 1/4 |
8 1/4 |
|
D = Shoulder width |
10,5 |
11 |
12 |
4 1/4 |
4 1/4; |
4 3/4 |
|
E = Neck width |
15 |
15,5 |
16,5 |
6 |
6 |
6 1/2 |
|
F = Total sleeve length |
42 |
46 |
48 |
16 1/2 |
18 |
19 |
|
G = Sleeve cap height |
8 |
10 |
12 |
3 1/4 |
4 |
4 3/4 |
|
H = Sleeve width |
36 |
38,5 |
44,5 |
14 |
15 |
17 1/2 |
Links:
[1] http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/
[2] http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/