Sweet
Author
By Amy O’Neill Houck
Introduction
This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.
Materials List
- Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
- Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
- Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
- Crochet hook:
- Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
- Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
- Scissors
- Yarn needle to weave in ends.
Finished Size
Amy's Version
Custom fit
Gauge
Variable
Notes
Special Stitches:
FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet
The Pattern
Pattern Template
Gauge
An adequate gauge swatch is essential in this pattern—row gauge is actually not important, because the sweater grows from the top-down, but stitch gauge is. So create a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 3 inches tall. When you’re swatching, you may want to try various needle sizes and stitch patterns to get a fabric that you like. Take your time. Most of the design process happens here. If you’re using a fuzzy yarn, I would recommend a simple stitch pattern—I think hdc works great. And don’t be afraid to use a needle larger than recommended because we want a flexible, not stiff fabric.
Measure your gauge. Make note of it here:
_____________ sts per in/cm.
Andi's Version
Setup
Measure the back of your neck. Multiply this measurement by your gauge: ________ (A)
Divide the number above by 3: ______ (B) Multiply B by 2: ______ (C) (here we’re determining the number of stitches to chain for the sleeves.)
Add C + A: ________ (D)
Add D + 6: ________ (E) (The six stitches we added form the four raglan “seams” plus two stitches for the front of the sweater. E is the required number of stitches needed to begin your sweater, you’ll need to adjust this number, adding the required number stitches for the “turning chain.”)
Instructions
(Replace the letters with the numbers you got in your calculations.)
Neck Shaping
Using the yarn and hook you’ve selected, chain E. Place markers at the seam stitches so you’ll know where to increase in the first row. Skip the first stitch, place a marker at the 2nd stitch, skip B stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip A stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip B stitches, you should be right before the second to last stitch. Place a marker in the second to last stitch - 4 markers placed.
Note: I used double crochet in the template as an example, but you should feel free to use any stitch or stitch pattern.
Deneen's Version
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hk, 3 dc in next st (where marker was placed), dc in each st to 2nd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 3rd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 4th marker, 3 dc in marker st, 2 dc in final st - 10 sts added.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st as t-ch, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * across until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (top ch of t-ch) - 10 sts added.
Rep Row 2, until the number of stitches at the back is equal to the number of stitches for the two fronts when added together (plus or minus one stitch is ok). In my model, this took a total of 5 rows.
At the end of the final neck shaping row, ch 1, sl st to join to beg of round to form center V. From now on you will be working in continuous (spiraling) rounds. The center point of the V marks beg/end of each round.
Continuing Raglan Increases
Julie's Version
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), sk 1st st, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of the round. Do not join. - 8 sts added.
Rnd 2: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - 8 sts added.
Continue as in Rnd 2, adding 8 stitches per round until you can comfortably wrap the sleeve cap around the widest part of your arm. (Make sure you stop to try the top on every few rounds.)
Forming the Sleeves
Next Rnd: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, ch 2, sk all sts up to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * once, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - cap-sleeves formed.
Bodice
Rnd 1: Dc in each st of the round.
Rnd 2: Dc in each st to 1st underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to 2nd underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to end of round.
Rep Rnd 1 of Bodice until sweater falls just above your hip (or reaches the length you’d like before the ribbing. If you wish, you can change to a smaller hook size just after the sweater falls below the bust to add some shaping.)
Ribbing
Rnd 1: *FPdc in the first st, BPdc in next st, * rep from * to * around to create ribbing. Do not join.
Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 of Ribbing, working FPdc around FPdc sts and BPdc around BPdc sts until you have 2 inches of ribbing (or the length you desire).
Fasten off.
Sleeve Edging
With smaller hook, join yarn at 1st underarm and work 3 rounds of FPdc/BPdc ribbing around cap sleeve. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. (Note: if you’d like longer sleeves, you can work plain dc rows before beginning the ribbing.)
Neck Edging
With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck opening, work 1 round of sc around neck opening, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
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Hmmmm, while I wait for tech difficulties to end so I can sign up for the Crochet Along I must choose the yarn I'll use... hmmmm.
We're working on it! It shouldn't be too long...
My friend found the pattern for the Sweet Sweater online and emailed it to me. I'm so excited! I've done a knitted version of this type of sweater [(Sure-to-Fit)from Spindling.com]; yet my first love is and always will be crochet! Does any one have the pattern for the edging Andi used in her version? With this edging, the sweater can be used casually as well as for a more dressy look! It is absolutely gorgeous. I like the longer sleeves also.
~Remi~
I'm very late to join in on this but I hope someone can answer my question. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what is meant by "front parts" and "back part". Where exactly should I start measuring from to determine how long the back part is? I've done about 7 rounds so far, and the way I'm measuring (from the middle of the shell increase at the shoulders) it doesn't seem like the front and back will ever be equal. I'm working with a pretty fine yarn and smaller needle so maybe this is just going to take more rounds than the example?
I am still VERY confused on how to measure the neck! Do we measure from the side of the neck to the shoulder and then measure the other side from the neck to the shoulder? Then do we add the two numbers together for our neck measurement?
OR: do we measure from the left side of the neck to the right shoulder and visa versa? I really want to make this so I can actually have something for me and I would like to make a variety of them for the coming summer months as I hate to shop because nothing fits me right. (All measurements are small except the bust which is a 2x, sigh). Thank you for your help.
Bonnie B
What a cute sweater and great article about technique!! What is the gorgeous variegated yarn that is shown in the very first picture (taken by Muse Studios)? I loooove the browns, greens, blues all together.
ooooh, ooooh, ooooh...and I was wondering about the beautiful purply blue on the seriously darling little girl with the dark curls modeling Deneen's version?
That's Lion Homespun! Looks great, doesn't it?
Hi Molly--the yarn in the photo at the top is Be Sweet Mohair Boucle and Be Sweet Brushed Mohair. Julie's yellow sweater also uses be sweet yarn--their fine gauge mohair. I'll talk more about our yarn and amounts in the CAL--hope you'll join us!
Would love to join the Crochet A Long. I haven't crocheted anything that requires any fitting yet. I think this will be a great first attempt. Especially with your help! Thanks Amy!
I don't know if I am supposed to answer or not, but I have my notes.
I made this about a size 7/8 and it measures 14" from the back of the neck to the bottom hem.
I used Homespun in Renaissance-8 ounces total (about 1 1/3 skeins)-about 250 yards.
I used an L hook-8.0 mm (Brittany) for the starting chain and then a K hook-6.5 mm (Brittany) for the body. It worked up quite quickly. The one I made my daughter isn't as form fitting, but I did that purposely because she doesn't like wearing things very form fitting.
If you need all the specs (as far as how many rounds, etc)-feel free to email me at yarnsandmusings (at) gmail.com
I think I NEED to join in the CAL. I am in love with Andie's version. The pointy trim speaks to me.
Ummm, I have a horribly dumb question... What exactly does "measure the back of your neck" mean? Around your neck? From the nape of your neck down to somewhere? I really want to join this crochet-along, but I can't even get past this simple step... Help!
L-A: It's across the base of the neck, just where before it goes to the shoulders. Mine was about 5".
I do want to join the CAL as soon as the technical difficulty is taken care of. I've never joined a CAL officially although I have knitted something from a KAL but never joined. I'm interested in connecting with others of like mind. I love this idea of using your choice of yarn and your own gauge to get something that is uniquely yours.
I MUST join in...Andi's version is awesome!!!
I would love to join the CAL. I have never made anything fitted before but this sweater is so cute, I have to try. What experience level would you say this is?
Keenya-
This is the perfect sweater to try as your first fitted garment. It works up quickly and I would say it was an advanced beginner pattern (only because of the shaping part). The template Amy wrote is perfect and somehow it all works fantastically.
Beautiful! What yarn was used in Amy's version (child's light blue shirt near the top)? Thanks.
Please sign me up. Would love to knit this. Thank you Robyn.
Okay this may be a stupid question but, where do I sign up for the CAL? I have already started my sweater. I love Andi's version. I am so doing the 3/4 length sleeve.
I would like to join the CAL. I will be crocheting the sweater for my 11-year-old daughter using Naturally Allsorts in purple. Can't wait!
This might be obvious to everyone but me... but here goes- I don't understand how you crochet the front. Do you crochet the front pieces separately, then slip stich them together to form a round?
Alicia - you start at the very top, working in rows with increases to create the back, both shoulders, and two sides of the front. When it's long enough for the number of stitches on the front to be equal to the number of stitches on the back (between the shoulder increases) then you join with a slip stitch and work down the bust, torso, and hips in one continuous round. The sleeves are created in the process unless you want the sleeves longer, then you pick up at the armhole and work the sleeves. There is no seaming involved at all. Just take it one step at a time, checking for fit along the way, and you'll end up with a sweater.
I am making this sweater for my 5 year old daughter and I love the pattern. I did have one problem though-when I got to the point where you join and start working in a spiral the neck opening was too small to go over her head. I have to add several more rows to get it big enough and now I am worried about having more stitches in the back than in the front. We have enormous craniums in our family...
After completing this sweater I hope to use the pattern to make sweaters for everyone in the family...
Under the forming the sleeves bit, what does the SK stand for?
Thanks!
Brandi
Hi--It means skip.
Hope that helps!
Amy
nicest crochet sweater I have ever seen.
I'm a little late to the party, but I really want to make the sweater, and I have a question. I would like to make it in a V stitch, but am unclear on how I would count the stitches (in order to do the setup). Does each V count as a stitch, or does each "wing" of the V and the chain space count as a stitch?
Thanks if you can help!
Each wing and chain would count as a stitch. You make the foundation chain, then you work the V-stitches, where you end up working the same number of stitches as you have foundation chains because you skip stitches before and after each V. Does that make sense?
A group of double crochets and chain form the V-stitch pattern.
That makes perfect sense! Thanks!
I was wondering if i could make this in RH symphony yarn i got a bunch on cleaance from WM and i have 2 lil girls and this seems to be the perfet sweater to make up in the summer for the winter and of course ill have to make some for me too :P, what would be the gauge changes for reg WW yarn like carron simply foft or just plain red heart ?? also thought of doing these for charity as well since they could work up pretty fast , since it look like a 1 peice deal ;) well except for the sleeves if you wanted them longer ya know , lemm know im very excited to find this pattern kudos to the designer!!
blessings
melissa
Im working on a v-st sweater and im having trouble doing the Sleeves can you help .
I'm wondering how just 3 balls of that Be Sweet mohair can go so far when it's only 120yds per ball. I see that it's a little larger hook, but still! I know what yarn I want to use, but I live in Australia and the yarn is from Knit Picks; can't just pick it up at the store, you know. How can I make a good guestimate about how much to order?
Thanks,
Devvy
Hi I know its waaaay late but i wondered if someone could tell me how to make this without it being a v-neck? Do i just join after the first row and go in rounds from there? Or perhaps place my markers in equal corners?