I like crocheting socks from the toe-up. You can try them on as you go and adjust the calf length to the amount of yarn remaining. I also like to crochet the heel as I go; no after-thoughts for me. The custom fit is better and you’re finished when the cuff is done. I designed this pattern so I could crochet socks my way – toe up in one piece with a gusseted heel.

• MC: Gedifra Fashion Trend Sportivoe (70% superwash wool, 23% polyamid, 7% polyester, 200m/50g), color – 5768, 2 balls per pair
• Substitute: About 400m of any sock yarn  
• US F/3.75mm hook for body of sock
• US E /3.5mm hook for cuff
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers

S [M, L]

Circumference of foot: 8 [8.75,9.5] inches

Length: to fit

20 esc / 20 rows = 4 inches

Gauge is measured over extended single crochet. Row gauge is not terribly important since you will crochet the sock to fit a measured length. If you have trouble obtaining the specified stitch gauge, try following the directions for the next smaller or larger size to ensure a good fit.

Pattern is worked primarily in the round. Do not turn or join rounds unless directed otherwise.

Stitch markers are used to mark the increases in the toe section and then are not used again until you reach the ankle/heel area. Markers should be moved up in the same stitch in each round. Once you complete the toe, you can remove the markers, crochet in the round til you reach the ankle, and then replace them. Or move the markers up with each round if you prefer. It is helpful to use a distinct marker to mark the start of the round, to distinguish it from the mid-round marked stitch. I use 2 safety pins hooked together to mark the start of the round and single pins everywhere else.

For simplicity and symmetry, increases are always made in pairs, before and after each marked stitch. Increases are made by crocheting two stitches (either sc or esc as applicable) in the specified stitch.

When crocheting the first few rows of the heel, I sometimes find it difficult to distinguish between the heel stitches and the next unworked foot stitch. For this reason, I mark the first and last stitch of the heel as well as the next unworked foot stitch on both ends of the heel. While moving the markers can be a pain, it allows for mindless crocheting of the heel. After the first few rows, when the heel is established and it’s easier to tell the stitches apart, I dispense with the markers.

Special Stitch Patterns:

Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. (Sort of like making a chain stitch at the beginning of your single crochet stitch.)

Fpdc & bpdc (front post double crochet & back post double crochet, respectively): See instructions here.

Toe

With MC and larger hook, ch 11.

Round 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, continue sc up other side in free loops of chain (20 sc).

Round 2: Sc in first sc of Round 1, place marker (see notes) in stitch just made, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, place marker in stitch just made, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st (the last stitch before marker) - 24 sc.

Round 3: Sc in each st around.

Round 4: Sc in first marked st, 2 sc in next st, sc across to last st before next marker, 2 sc in last st before marker, sc in marked st, 2 sc in next st, sc across to last st before marker, 2 sc in last st before marker - 28 sc. You are simply increasing in stitches before and after each marker in this round.

Rounds 5 thru 10 [12, 14]:  Repeat rounds 3 and 4, increasing 4 sts on every other round) - 40 (44, 48 sc) at the end of the last round.

Do not finish off. Continue with Foot.

Foot

Round 1:  Esc in each st around - 40 [44, 48] esc.

Work evenly in esc until sock measures 2.5 inches LESS THAN desired foot length (back of heel to tip of toe).

Gusset

Place markers: Fold sock in half, with the foundation edge flat at the tip of the toe. The top layer of the tube is the top of the foot; the bottom layer is the bottom of the foot. Locate and mark (with a unique marker), the center stitch on top of foot for the midpoint marker. Place markers in 9th [10th, 11th] stitch on either side of center top foot stitch to mark the sides of the foot. Markers should be located about 1 stitch in from the side edges when the sock is folded flat.

Round 1:  Esc in first marked st, 2 esc in next st, esc in each st across to last st before next marker, 2 esc in last st before marker, esc in marked st, 2 esc in next st, esc in each st across to last st before marker, 2 esc in last st before marker - 44 [48, 52] esc. You are simply increasing in stitches before and after marker in this round.

Round 2:  Esc even in each st around.

Rounds 3 thru 9:  Repeat rounds 1 & 2, ending with Round 1 - 60 [64, 68] esc.

Round 10:  Esc in each st across to midpoint marker.

Try sock on for fit and adjust rows and shaping before working heel.

Do not fasten off. Continue with heel turn.

Turn Heel

Note: The slip stitches attach the heel to the foot as you go.

Begin working in rows, starting at midpoint marker.

Row 1:  Sc in marked st and in each of next 14 sts, place marker in st just made, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 1 [3, 5] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, place marker in st just made, sl st in next st, turn - 7 [9, 11] sc between and including marked heel sts.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 [5, 7] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in marked st, sl st in next unworked foot st (see notes), turn - 9 [11, 13] sc.

Row 3 (S ONLY):  Ch 1, sc in first st, (2 sc in next st) four times, sc in next st, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in marked st, sl st in next unworked foot st, turn - 15 sc.

Row 3 (M/L ONLY):  Ch 1, sc in first st, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in each of next [1, 2] sts, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in each of next [2, 3] sts, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in marked st, sl st in next unworked foot st, turn - [17, 19] sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in each of next 3 [4, 5] sts, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in each of next 4 [5, 6] sts, (2 sc in next st) twice, sc in marked st, sl st in next unworked foot st, turn - 21 [23, 25] sc.

Heel

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc in each st across to marker, sl st in next unworked foot stitch - 21 [23, 25] sc.  

Repeat Row 5 until you reach the foot side markers. Continue repeating Row 5 until sl st is 2 stitches beyond the side foot marker, or until there are 40 [44, 48] sts around the ankle opening. End at the beginning of round marker.

Do not fasten off. Check the fit and adjust rows if necessary. Continue with Ankle.

Ankle

Begin working in rounds in extended single crochet.

Round 1:  Esc in each st around - 40 [44, 48] esc.

Continue to work esc in each st around until ankle measures 1 inch less than desired calf length.

Do not fasten off. Check the fit and adjust any rows if necessary. Continue with Cuff.

Cuff

Switch to smaller hook.

Round 1:  Dc in each st around, sl st in first dc - 40 [44, 48] dc.

Round 2:  (Fpdc in first dc, bpdc in next dc) around (see Notes), sl st in first fpdc.

Round 3:  Fpdc in each fpdc, bpdc in each bpdc around, sl st in first fpdc.

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.